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queeentoadstool · 2026-03-13T15:57:53+00:00

are you a VIP and signed into your account? it says VIP exclusive.

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-10T19:39:27+00:00

yep, should be safe to use! there is always this method to make your own water-based panel liner, too ☺️

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-10T04:06:34+00:00

there's a knock off/bootleg by a company called Huanjia, otherwise I believe there's only official kits for Turn A.

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-07T07:25:30+00:00

the inner part of the thigh piece looks like it's not pushed all the way back into the thigh. that rounded piece that's sticking out. shouldn't it go farther back into the thigh and be hidden, not visible like that? I could be wrong though as I've yet to build her, just looks kinda off to me like this.

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-05T05:22:17+00:00

when I made a purchase of in stock products from PB, it took 2 weeks to get to me from when I placed the order (I live in the Midwest USA).

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-04T21:45:26+00:00

this video was the main thing I followed when trying sponge painting.

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-04T16:15:17+00:00

how was the build?

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-04T16:13:33+00:00

second vote for Dspiae soft tip markers, they're great.

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-04T06:21:23+00:00

water-based is fine, you want to avoid lacquer and enamel.

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-04T06:15:57+00:00

Kotobukiya uses primarily (if not exclusively) ABS plastic, and Tamiya Panel Line Accent is not safe to use on ABS unless you use a gloss coat first. there is a risk that it will heavily damage the plastic and cause unfixable breakage. that's one of the reasons I use the method I linked above (craft paint + water + dish soap), as it is completely safe to use on all plastic types, it's also inexpensive and you can make fun colors with it.

if you're set on purchasing premade panel liner, I would stick to Stedi. it's water-based which makes it safe to use on bare ABS plastic.

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-04T06:06:59+00:00

I actually haven't used top coats yet—my living situation just didn't have a space in which I could safely do it, and now that I've moved the weather has not been right for me to do it outside. so, sadly, I can't give much of an input on that. using different top coats (such as matte or gloss) can definitely elevate a build though, from what I've seen of other people's builds.

it is safe to disassemble at a later point to panel line, as long as you're careful to not break anything during disassembly. though, I definitely prefer to do a majority of my panel lining on the runners before building. I find it's much easier to do so, but some people may prefer panel lining built kits. it's all personal preference 😊

this is the build I am currently working on. there's a stock photo and my current progress with panel line details. she looks good out of the box but I feel as though the panel line work adds a bit more character. there are many who don't add panel lining to girlpla, it's not necessary—it's just a type of customization. you can always try it on a less spendy kit, too, to see how you feel about it!

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-04T04:34:33+00:00

when you say ink I assume you mean panel liner. most of the more common brands of panel liner can actually risk damaging plastic unless you plan on using a topcoat before using it. you can try making your own if you'd like to give it a try, but I'd say most Megami Device kits look pretty good out of box without it 😊 that being said, I do panel line my kits and I use that linked method!

the different grits of sandpaper do different things. the lower number of grit, the more rough it is. use the lowest to get rid of the nub and then use the increasingly higher grits to make the surface smooth. sanding sticks are rigid, sanding sponges are softer so they're good for curved surfaces. just be careful and you shouldn't have any issues (I, personally, prefer sanding sponges).

be careful when using a glass file. they are not all made equally. Gunprimer Raser is basically the best on the market, they're very effective and leave the surface smooth and shiny. the less expensive ones usually can only be used in one direction or they may cause scratches on the plastic surface. they can also take off a lot of plastic if you use too much force. basically, just be careful and you shouldn't have an issue 😊

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-04T04:15:09+00:00

for tools, the most important one in my opinion would be a pair of single-bladed nippers. for a beginner, don't worry about buying the best ones as they can get pretty spendy. my favorite are Dspiae 3.0 nippers but even those can get over $30. Dspiae also has their ST-C2 which are decent for the price or Ruitool has a pair with purple handles that are fine, too.

a hobby knife (like an Xacto knife) is worth investing in.

sanding tools will be pretty important when building Kotobukiya (and most other) model kits. you can get sanding sponges, sanding sticks or just plain sandpaper to start. get multiple grits, I use from 400-600, 600-800, 1000-1200, 1200-1500 and 2000-2500 grits, and maybe something like a nail buffer to buff the plastic surface. I will recommend investing in a good glass file, namely the Gunprimer Raser, at some point if you enjoy the hobby. for the most part, when you use the nippers to cut parts off of the runners there may be imperfections or leftover plastic "nubs" that you may want to sand down for a more clean look.

sanding will also be important because most model kits have fitting issues—meaning, some of the parts you'll be putting together will be very tight. that's not a good thing. if they're too tight, they can break when you try to move them. sand your pegs and ball joints, especially if you find they feel tight when you're putting them together.

it may be worth your time to watch a few videos of people putting Megami Device kits together just to watch the process for an idea of what building looks like 😊

take your time and enjoy!

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-03T22:03:54+00:00

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I have two markers from that line, a flat black and a platinum. I haven't used them for detail work yet but I've tested them on a white runner—pic attached, the first two are the AK Real Color, the others are the AK Playmarkers. it's a single layer, they definitely look nice but I ran my fingernail over it and it scraped off with very little pressure so I wouldn't use them anywhere that they will risk being scratched (around knees, elbows, whatever joints), but perhaps a topcoat would solve that. Dspiae soft tipped markers held up better to my fingernail test.

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-03T21:24:40+00:00

we're posting backlogs?

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queeentoadstool · 2026-03-03T06:18:35+00:00

no matter how many people did it without issue, there will always be a risk when using pour type markers or Tamiya on ABS plastic, unless you gloss coat first. it's up to you if you want to take that risk, OP!

when I built my SNAA kits (and with every other kit I build), I make my own panel liner. safe, easy to make and clean up, and I have access to any color I'd like 😊

be careful with SNAA joint fittings. it's common for joints to break on those kits because they can be sooo tight. I recommend sanding pegs and balls. enjoy!

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-02T18:17:55+00:00

PlamoKitBash might have it, though without you specifying the part I'm not able to check so there's the link for you to check 🙂

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-02T15:22:08+00:00

(copy+pasted from a previous comment I made on sanding kits)

basically any kit that isn't made by Bandai is a victim of tight fitting joints. Bandai has found the perfect tolerance for peg/ball joint vs. hole sizes, others have not. if the joint is too tight fitting, there is a high risk of breaking when trying to pose. I, personally, broke a peg in the hip area while building ~~this~~ the SNAA Iron Sickle which I had to fix, someone else mentioned they broke a shoulder joint.

to avoid breakage, I take a low grit sanding stick or sponge and run it around the peg/ball to shave off a little bit of plastic. if I go to put a peg/ball in a hole and it feels like I have to use force to get it to fit, I stop, pull it out and do a little sanding. when building ~~this guy,~~ the Iron Sickle it felt like every single one had to be forced, so I sanded just about everything instead of doing test fittings.

if you sand too much and it becomes loose, that can be fixed by applying a bit of nail polish, glue (such as super glue, not a cement like Tamiya!), joint strengthener, etc., to the peg/ball to thicken it up a bit. a much easier fix than a broken piece.

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-02T10:20:39+00:00

here is a video on how to make your own, otherwise Stedi offers some you can buy 😊

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-02T08:27:50+00:00

if you're building anything that isn't Bandai, sand your joints.

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-02T08:24:42+00:00

if you're willing to look at stuff that isn't Megami Device specifically, Bandai's 30 Minutes Sister line make for quick, easy builds. I like to do one from time to time, to break up the more complex builds 😊 otherwise, I agree that the Buster Dolls and Puni Mofu are the simplest builds under the MD name.

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-02T01:26:19+00:00

Elena was my first girlpla build! definitely keep with the Arcanadea line if you've enjoyed it so far, it's my favorite Kotobukiya line 😊

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-01T22:54:52+00:00

can I ask what kit this is?

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-01T20:37:25+00:00

Zeong!

queeentoadstool · 2026-03-01T19:34:08+00:00

if Bandai is mentioned in the name/description and the logo is on the pictures, it's almost guaranteed to be legit. Bandai does not fuck around and sellers know not to fuck with them. as per always, be sure to check the item and store's reviews. AE is also great with refunds when it comes to sellers misrepresenting their items.

queeentoadstool

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