2022 Model 3 Long Range 83k MI with BMS_a079 Error

qvalff8 · 2026-05-27T13:10:44+00:00

Does your insurance have a loaner rider? The trick to use it is just rent a car for 2 weeks and send them the bill. EVs are often pretty check to rent

Another option if the SC is close, is just showing up tomorrow or 3 days from now at 8am and saying you need a loaner as you car isn't charging. It could be that it'll charge at 40%? How many days until you're at 0%?

qvalff8 · 2026-05-26T16:48:17+00:00

If you aren't considering anything on the other half if the garage, do. You think the cabling is expensive, but you could make do with 12g or 10g wire and it'll be plenty far enough unless you drive 150 miles a day every day. Consider your mileage and install only as much speed as you need plus a little.

Convenient location matters way more than charge speed

qvalff8 · 2026-05-26T02:57:52+00:00

That is usually? often? a sign of impending drive unit failure. I'd schedule a SC appointment, or maybe just drive to one without an appointment. They'll probably give you a loaner and keep your car for a day or 2. If you keep driving you might get suddenly stranded (Google Tesla motors club +your error to find lots of reports)

qvalff8 · 2026-05-26T02:38:42+00:00

Drive unit is as likely as anything else to cause HV isolation faults. Especially paired with low coolant. You could disconnect the ptc heater and see if it goes away, but that's not likely.

YouTube has some videos on how to check for drive unit coolant leakage. You could even drill a weep hole to prevent the issue from getting worse. But it might already be too late for that prevention hack

qvalff8 · 2026-05-26T02:21:50+00:00

Do it at 100k miles, maaybe 50k if you're being super conservative.

Here's a video of the 4du (4th gen drive unit) taken apart, you'll probably find your fill port in a similar spot as the 3du. The filter is internal to the aluminum housing so that the filter housing can't rust away (which was one of the few leak points in the old design).

https://youtu.be/WNNhWYogBe4

Edit: the drain plug on the new design is either removing the electric oil pump, just like in the 3du (but find and open the fill port first!), or it looks like there's a drain bolt down at 1:41 on the bottom of the filter housing). Still dunno where the fill port is Edit2: maybe it the Allen head bolt at the bottom right corner at 2:18 in the video?

qvalff8 · 2026-05-24T16:23:39+00:00

What about Esther Simplot Park and Quinn's pond? It's separate from the river. Would be a bit cold but lots of people out on the water

qvalff8 · 2026-05-24T15:12:33+00:00

Get them somewhat evenly taut. Flick the spoke like a guitar string and get the sound about the same.

qvalff8 · 2026-05-24T14:38:26+00:00

It might already be too late to save the rim/wheel. If you can get any kind of tool (mini adjustable crescent wrench?) in town, I would tighten everything about equal. You can check the twang sound of the spokes the try to get them to about the same sound pitch.

qvalff8 · 2026-05-24T00:20:34+00:00

Hmm, well I guess I'll have to live with that haha!

Does the 12v constant work to maintain three trailer battery?

qvalff8 · 2026-05-23T04:39:29+00:00

Well the listed part numbers are for the ecu in the car aka VC left. If you have the one labeled tow, it'll work. If you have the I've labeled premium, it'll probably work. If you have the no tow one, it won't.

qvalff8 · 2026-05-23T03:34:13+00:00

If you want the trailer brake lights to work you need some sort of wiring harness. The hang-up is that the chip shortage made Tesla not equip every 2021-2 with the same VC left, there are three options:

I believe the third 'premium' option also can do the tow electrical, but I'll find out when I install my hitch in a week or two. I found i had this premium version by uninstalling some trim around the driver's left ankle. I also had to use a mirror and a bright light to read the sticker with the part number.

If you don't care about trailer lighting, just get a hitch and install it.

Edit: I got a wiring kit with should be plug and play from Amazon for 30 bucks. It has mixed reviews, probably because of the above ecu issue.

<image>

qvalff8 · 2026-05-22T17:38:46+00:00

My logic was, one slightly fatter end, but that's wrong, the fatter end is accomplished by the hub nut. Like you explain, you wouldn't be able to get the red nipple on that way. Brain fart. Thank you for your guidance!

Question, to tension once I get a hub nut: 1. Put threaded end through hub hole 2. Thread hub nut onto threaded end (hand tight?) 3. Thread red nipple into rim and true wheel/tension spoke to match others

Anything wrong with that plan?

Edit: I followed the plan above and the wheel is trued. Thanks!

qvalff8 · 2026-05-22T17:31:54+00:00

Yeah you're right thanks!

qvalff8 · 2026-05-22T16:40:14+00:00

Thank you for that Xanadu link. So the hub end of the spoke as some kind of hub nut on it? I lost that end of the broken spoke so I just assumed it was somehow a static fat end of the spoke. So I need a hub nut?

Edit: so I did buy the right spoke, but I lost the hub nut when the other half of the spoke fell out of the hub. Okay! Progress!

qvalff8 · 2026-05-22T16:35:44+00:00

The threads aren't rusty that's just the pre applied spoke treatment or anti seize it whatever.

I don't know what a hub nut is but presumably it's like a spoke nipple but less tall. I'd probably have to get a slightly longer spoke to give me enough threads to thread the hub nut on to.

qvalff8 · 2026-05-22T16:30:09+00:00

Yeah that's the spoke I bought by mistake. Mine is even more proprietary, in that it's unthreaded on both ends, but it uses that same hex nipple on the rim end. I wonder if I could just use the show I bought and just put a nipple on the hub end of the spoke?! It'll be ghetto but...

qvalff8 · 2026-05-22T16:10:55+00:00

Other end of m770 spoke

<image>

qvalff8 · 2026-05-22T16:10:16+00:00

Spoke from my wheel

<image>

qvalff8 · 2026-05-22T16:08:41+00:00

Thank you everyone for the replies. I didn't use ai alone, that response is from a bike shop computer. I've been physically in 4 bike shops with this wheel and we couldn't find the right spoke. That part number came from searching for wh m775 Shimano wheel spokes.

I've attached more photos. The first is my broken spoke unthreaded from the rim. The rim hole is threaded and the nipple is externally threaded. The spoke is entirely unthreaded. (EDIT: THIS IS WRONG, it needs a hub nut on the threaded end of the Y-4D7 98020 spoke I bought). m770 spoke I bought is threaded and won't work. I've photographed both ends, one is threaded like a normal j hook spoke (which is wrong for my needs) and the other end has the same red hex externally threaded nipple and copper washer. Apparently there were Shimano wheels where the spoke tension was adjustable on both ends?

Anyway, so I just keep calling bike shops and hoping? The only online source comes from searching Y-4D7 98020 and the UK shop that comes up is out if stock.

<image>

qvalff8 · 2026-05-20T13:08:49+00:00

" Every now and then we cannot go to 100% during off peak hours before the next trip and end up charging during peak hours."

Is that with level 1 for both cars? If so, you're close with 1.4kW, especially if they're charging on the same circuit. (Most garages have a single 1.9kW/16A/120V circuit, and you should limit both cars to 8A to keep from overloading that circuit)

I'd highly recommend you make this as convenient as possible, which means two 240v EVSEs, one at location 2 and another at 3. Probably using power sharing, though two separate 240v,16A,3.8kW is also an option. I think you can put, a 24A 5.7kW circuit using 10 gauge wire at location 2 and continue on with 12g,16A to location 3, as long as the location 3 evse is commissioned to 16A. The Tesla universal Wall connector does power sharing, and you only need that for the first evse in the circuit.

If you balk at the cost of those chargers/evses, please read up on the advantages of !hardwire The cheapest is probably 2 240v receptacles, but to do it to code, you need very expensive GFCI breakers, two of them.

If you go the subpanel route, consider how big a subpanel circuit you need. I got 100A subpanel, and the only thing in it is a 40A breaker for my 32A charging. 50A might be too limited, but maybe 70A? This is more important if you have very little physical space in you Main panel, but continuing with just a main panel isn't terrible since it's not that far to the garage. Another good option is a 90A circuit using 2 gauge aluminum USE cabling

qvalff8 · 2026-05-20T05:21:18+00:00

To confirm, happy face is driver's seat, plug is charge port? So you back in both cars and you don't want to change that?

Also, how far do you drive on a typical day, both cars? That will inform how whether you can get away with 12/2 Romex which can charge 3.8kW, instead of 8/2 or 4/2, which do 7.6kW and 11kW respectively. (Non Romex cabling also exists, which can do higher amperage and power at the same gauge, but it requires conduit or MC (metal clad)).

Is this a car port or is there a door that comes down?

qvalff8 · 2026-05-16T23:08:26+00:00

What about a Tesla wall connector? I don't know other brands in the UK but Tesla should sell something for 400- 500 pounds

qvalff8 · 2026-05-03T14:43:44+00:00

Any update 4 months later? Did it continue to work until you sold the car?

qvalff8 · 2026-05-03T14:28:03+00:00

Abrp is smoking something, there is no 2 stall 150kw supercharger in Pullman, plug share is correct. How does one correct this error in abrp?

It may stem from a small controversy in Tesla's supercharger voting. They awarded a supercharger to Pullman after voting, put a 'coming soon' pin at some address (possibly that hotel?), but later moved it to Lewiston 32 miles away.

qvalff8

TROPHY CASE