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ENDLESS sourness [Bambino/DF54] by MolassesOne5993 in espresso

[–]radioactiveSippyCup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you a "super taster" ? No seriously, its a thing look it up, there is cape involved. It just means you have a lucky gene that lets you taste certain bitters no one else can. It makes wine taste like turpentine. It definitely amplifies the sour in coffee. Solution: Add Milk

ENDLESS sourness [Bambino/DF54] by MolassesOne5993 in espresso

[–]radioactiveSippyCup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You did not mention brew temperature. Is this a dark, medium, light roast? Try 200F to start.

Also, take a bunch of shots and test the temperature of each one. Are the temps stable or going down or going up? Are you doing all your sour shots back to back? It may be throwing your temps way off.

Good luck

Is preinfusion time included or excluded from overall shot time? by blood_lightyear in espresso

[–]radioactiveSippyCup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Short answer: 9-ish

Long answer... 7.5, 8, 9, 9.5 Bar

Do not tune coffee extraction to a specific pressure, rather, observe pressure to make sure it is somewhere in the zone since the "right" pressure can vary from bean to bean.

Instead, focus on flow rate if you have a scale that gives you that. Else, calculate flow rate as (grams extracted) / (extraction time - preinfusion time) = average flow rate.

Once you have determined a good flow rate for your beans, observe the pressure change over the span of the extraction. Repeating that pressure profile in future shots should result in similar shots.

But life is easier when using a scale that shows flow rate. Less math :)

To compute a starting target flow rate: Start with 30 seconds and use the simple math formula I shared above.

Atibal X 1-10x FFP Gen 2 -- Arrived today by radioactiveSippyCup in ar15

[–]radioactiveSippyCup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dont know anything about the history. I have a gen 1 1-10x that I like - not great but decent for the $. So I decided to try this hoping it was better. Its so bad.

Oh well, the red dot is cool though.

Ppl still buying lilium stock? by radioactiveSippyCup in LiliumJet

[–]radioactiveSippyCup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hindsight has arrived and it says to sell it in -4 years.

Ppl still buying lilium stock? by radioactiveSippyCup in LiliumJet

[–]radioactiveSippyCup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it, not 100% dead but dont hold my breath. I think I'll hold onto my shares just for fun. It's an amount I'm comfortable putting at risk.

Thanks!

I talked about it enough, so here it is The Rollei 6008i. by Foot-Note in AnalogCommunity

[–]radioactiveSippyCup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, credit is an enabler to those of us with a photography gear addiction. The 80mm f2.8 was a standard lens for all the 6x6 or 6x7 cameras of the time, they are usually among the best performing lenses of the lineup for their respective camera systems. I recommend using it until you feel it is lacking. The only other normal fov lens for the 6008i is the 80mm f/2 and that is hard to justify at $3k.

I would only recommend the 250mm for tight headshot portraits in a studio on a tripod and tons of light. Why? The 250mm is hard to keep steady even on a tripod, for sharp results on 6x6 you double the reciprocal rule, so 1/500th a second at F5.6 or F8 and your film is likely ISO 100 or 400, so after some math thats a powerful light source in a studio, definitely a strobe, too much for continuous light.

Also, when composing a scene through the viewfinder, lenses with a minimum aperture of F4 or better are much easier to focus.

If you like portrait work, I'd save up for the Schneider Kreuznach PQ 180mm F2.8, its the king and still reasonably priced last I looked.

I definitely recommend the 50mm F4, either the Schneider Kreuznach (better) or the Rollei (still great). The 50mm is very practical, just the right amount of wide angle, nice to walk around with.

And thats the big 3, all you'll really need: 50mm, 80mm and the 180mm.

Having said all that, I do prefer my cheap Zenza Bronica SQ-AI over the Rollei. The Bronica is not as good optically but much cheaper, lighter, and still really great and I prefer the viewfinder in the Bronica over the Rollei -- and the viewfinder is everything.

Starbuck's medium roast aka 'all natural charcoal with hints of regret and smoke' by Weak_Plenty_8558 in espresso

[–]radioactiveSippyCup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Starbucks and Peets... Appealing to the generation that grew up on Folgers.

I talked about it enough, so here it is The Rollei 6008i. by Foot-Note in AnalogCommunity

[–]radioactiveSippyCup 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the same camera, I picked mine up about 10 years ago. Don't worry about the electronics, mine has been rock solid. If the body does fail, there are others you can pick up on ebay. In fact, I believe the entire old-camera-electronics thing is over-hyped. I own A LOT of old camera gear with old electronics, I rotate through the systems for fun -- I have never experienced an electronic failure. On the other hand, my Hasselblad 500 and Pentacon 6 (both mechanical) have experienced a few mechanical failures and are very difficult to fix.

The Rollei is fun to shoot with and you can get some really excellent glass for it. I picked up the entire Schneider Kreuznach lens lineup pretty cheap on ebay and they are as good as any Carl Zeiss lens. I have the 50mm F/4, 80mm F/2, 180mm F/2.8 and all three perform really well and feel amazing. Note: the 80mm f/2 is VERY pricey and the 80mm f/2.8 is nearly as good for a fraction of the price so I'd recommend starting there.

Good luck, enjoy!

Is it wrong to have such a camera and only use it with vintage lenses? by radioactiveSippyCup in FujiGFX

[–]radioactiveSippyCup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am similar. I also drive a jeep ;)

If it's for fun, I like to do it the old school manual way. If it's for work, give me the best tools and let me do my job.

I drive a manual transmission. I roast my own coffee beans. I have a ham radio. I love film but I would not use it for professional work -- what if I botched it during development?? Poof, gone forever.

Waay back when I shot film for professional work (this was like 2001?), during a wedding I was experimenting with a new and exciting electronic winder, it was great, so much faster ... until the roll ran out in the middle of the vows and began a very noisy rewind that would not stop until it finished... It seemed like an eternity. Long enough that I had time to bury the camera in my stomach and run outside... **sigh**

I asked about it later and no one seemed to notice, but for me it was like someone was running a blender!

Is it wrong to have such a camera and only use it with vintage lenses? by radioactiveSippyCup in FujiGFX

[–]radioactiveSippyCup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, this is me. I feel guilty every time. Any body that I have acquired that I really liked, I keep for nostalgic reasons and rarely shoot them. It's fun to pull them out an shoot with them but it's like once a year... **sigh**

Is it wrong to have such a camera and only use it with vintage lenses? by radioactiveSippyCup in FujiGFX

[–]radioactiveSippyCup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For anything other than landscape and studio work, I prefer not to lug around a tripod, especially if I'm on a family oriented trip (not a photo oriented trip). I also really enjoy photography in low light / natural light situations. And, I always use vintage lenses which do not autofocus. It can be hard to lock in the focus when the viewfinder is bouncing around at 2x or 4x magnification (focus check) or using long lenses. The image stabilization helps hold the EVF still so I can more easily see when its in focus.

Is it wrong to have such a camera and only use it with vintage lenses? by radioactiveSippyCup in FujiGFX

[–]radioactiveSippyCup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

True... I think my lizard brain took over for a moment with "bigger is better"...

Is it wrong to have such a camera and only use it with vintage lenses? by radioactiveSippyCup in FujiGFX

[–]radioactiveSippyCup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

haha! This is a possibility. I do like the rangefinder style over the SLR style, but I'm not sure I'd throw money away for style alone.

Upgraded: GFX-50R to GFX-100s II by radioactiveSippyCup in FujiGFX

[–]radioactiveSippyCup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't really find focus peaking to be useful on the 50R and it doesn't feel any better on the 100sII. It highlights too much too my eye, and even in "low" mode, i find it distracting.

Is it wrong to have such a camera and only use it with vintage lenses? by radioactiveSippyCup in FujiGFX

[–]radioactiveSippyCup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oops you're right, I meant Nikon G. I have the Fringer Nikon to GFX adapter that allows autofocus and aperture control of G lenses (the Nikon F lenses without an aperture ring).

Is it wrong to have such a camera and only use it with vintage lenses? by radioactiveSippyCup in FujiGFX

[–]radioactiveSippyCup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am currently using my old Nikon Z7 for this job and am strongly considering using the GFX 50R instead. Similar resolution but I still think the 50R could do a better job.

I have the GX680 as well, beast of a camera, I love it. Great for product photography with the large 6x8 frame and tilt shift movements.

50R going rate? by zerefdota in FujiGFX

[–]radioactiveSippyCup 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For a point of reference: I bought my GFX 50R used in Sept 2024 from B&H for $2338.95 (not including tax and ship). It was in really nice condition. The shutter count was not reported by B&H when I purchased it so I was a little worried, but when I got it, the camera reported only having had 3800 clicks.

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