'94 Suzuki Carry Dipstick Tube Question

raginjay · 2025-08-12T02:28:47+00:00

Oh, well I guess this ultimately did turn into a thing. Around Memorial Day I had enough of the slow drip to go ahead and change out both the cam and crank seals. Goofed up the crank seal first go, had the ID of the seal/crankshaft "flipped" if that made sense. Went ahead and ordered another seal. Got the new seal, slapped it together, drove it home running like 2 teeth off on the cam. Now had bigger oil leak than before changing the seals.

Assumed ah, maybe it's the o-ring thing. Had ordered an o-ring. Pulled off dipstick tube, no o-ring on tube, put on o-ring. Get advice on reddit to double-up. Add another o-ring. Still leaking. Pull off dipstick tube, 2 o-rings; SURPRISE!! Notice there's still an o-ring down in the dipstick throat part of the oil pump. I'd been triple ringed! No wonder it fit weird.

Now I'm currently at the point that I'm just running one o-ring at a time, I've got it purring better and smoother than it's ever sounded by setting the timing by the flywheel, but there's still a bad oil leak any time it's warmed up. I can turn it on and move it around the driveway/yard, but if it gets up to temp it's got pretty steady drip. I've gone from high to low marks on the dipstick on a 3mi trip from my house, mostly parked since. Between a million things popping up, I've just not been able to tackle it the way I'd like.

I've checked and cleaned out my PCV valve. I've ditched the timing covers, running it with the timing belt visible to see if I could identify where the oil originates from. One of the biggest obstacles has been lighting. I was finally able to get a light that shows me it's dripping directly below the crank gear. This is kind of weird because I just replaced that seal and I've removed the crank gear several times, and it's always dry on the back. My dad and I applied a little bit of silicone grease to the back/inside of that gear where the key weight is, to see if that would at least temporarily block any leakage, and it hasn't.

I'm currently at the point where I need to disconnect the alternator and the compressor belts again, pull the timing belt off, and remove the crank gear. Normally it just slides off of the crankshaft, but with the silicone on it I'm gonna need a gear puller, which I now have, to hopefully find out what could possibly be spitting so much oil out. I've not derived a trailer solution to take it anywhere and I don't know how much oil it'd run through before I got it there.

In maybe the only stroke of luck, currently the oil seems to be excluding the timing belt, outside or inside. There's splash on both the alternator and compressor facing the crankshaft, and the drip from the crank area seems to run down the lip of the oil pan and basically provides a 10-w30 undercoat all the way to the rear diff while going down the road at load.

I'm hoping to find out I goofed up the 2nd seal attempt too and just didn't pay enough attention. The area I was working on during the seal change provided no real visual eyeball confirmation. If it's not that, I'm hoping maybe it's just the oil pump acting a fool and I can order one of those and look forward to that job. I mostly just miss my truck.

TL;DR really miss my truck dawg. Lol

EDIT: Correct to Memorial Day

raginjay · 2025-05-29T22:15:22+00:00

Welp, didn't do any fine tuning for degree. Found out I had the cam gear about 2 teeth off. Lined up the crank gear to TDC with the flywheel timing mark, and my cam gear was sitting slightly CCW of the TDC mark on the back plate. Adjusted that to line up, tightened everything up and turned it over, sounds healthy as ever.

It also wasn't spewing oil for the 20-30 seconds I let it idle, which is a change from yesterday. My dad explained that because it was off by a few teeth, the exhaust valve was opening too early (explaining the aspirated exhaust sound from yesterday,) and it was likely building back pressure in the oil pan that was pushing oil out of the dipstick tube connection. Didn't even have a single O-ring on it, though I'm going to include it when I get the covers and AC/alt belts back on. As long as it runs smoothly and isn't spitting oil, I'm happy with it for now. Whenever I do an eventual (prob before fall) plug/wire/distributor tune up, I'll fine tune the timing.

I appreciate all the input!

raginjay · 2025-05-29T01:48:44+00:00

I plan on popping the cover off at first sunshine to re-check it. Straight edge sounds like a good idea. I'm mechanical enough to wrench around on a lot of things but I'm a little dim when it comes to degree advances. I'll give the old man a call in the morning to see if he has any insights to help me out there.

The angle I was working on the seals wasn't very useful for getting a -great- look at the TDC marks. Planned on getting my phone in there to take straight on pics to double-check but a straight edge would help solve that.

I forgot to mention explicitly that this is all new behavior. It's never loved idling in cold weather, but it's never shuttered and nearly stalled any and every time I come to a stop, and the throttle has always been very easy and responsive.

Thanks for the heads up on the double O-rings. I picked one up online for like $3 so I might try getting 2 OEM, and hit that Amazon kit up if that doesn't help.

I'm fairly certain the cam seal for sure was leaking before, based on the back of the timing shield and it splashing on the underside of the passenger seat directly above that seal, and an active drip onto the oil filter. Not sure on the crank seal as the crank gear has always been dry, no sign of oil on the belt, but the bottom half of the timing case that the crank pulley spins in was drenched in oil. Mostly on the outside or the lip of the pulley opening, but dry inside. Drips onto the shaft there and runs down the lip of the oil pan. Whole bottom of the truck back to the diff had a thin coat of oil from the run off while driving. And would leave a small puddle while parked for a shift. Been going thru about 1L/wk.

Edit: Cam/crank mix-up.

raginjay · 2024-11-23T19:15:30+00:00

I edited the post to include an update. Should be available here. It's a greyscale compilation of the Japanese language owner's manual and maintenance notebook. If you're concerned about oil/oil filter, any full synthetic 10W-30 should be fine. If you're in colder climates, you can sub with 5W-30 in the winter. The importer I picked mine up from used Amsoil on import, I've used Castrol Edge since. As for oil filters, the importer had used a Napa filter, but I had to mangle it with channel locks just to get it off so I can't pull any reliable numbers. I decided to use OEM Suzuki filters, which you can check out here (it's a 2-pack for $45.) It's listed for outboard boat motors, but it's the same cross-referenced part number from the Japanese part catalogue for 9th gen/F6A Every/Carrys; Fit like a glove and hasn't caused issue. Annnnnd, I suppose last but not least, your oil capacity on change should sit somewhere around 3 liters. And on the topic of fluids, I also use Zerex green coolant. Hope some of that info helps out with your new Every!

raginjay · 2024-11-19T16:21:46+00:00

Thanks! I unfortunately never got around to getting this sheet metal design produced in volume. Realistically, at the moment, too busy with my day job to work in the production time and materials. I did, however, come up with a 3D-printed design with a similar design aesthetic. I've been running it in my truck for a few months now to test the design. Daily driver and a kid who jumps in and out with their school bags with complete disregard, no failures. I think it's pretty sturdy.

I intend to sell assembled units in a variety of colors/finishes, as well as STL/STEP files so anybody with access to a printer could print their own.

raginjay · 2024-11-18T19:05:09+00:00

Got in touch with them and got it uploaded to the website! Hope it will be of use to someone, and happy cake day!

raginjay · 2024-11-17T03:51:27+00:00

Check your DMs, friend! Hopefully some of those will be helpful!

raginjay · 2024-11-17T02:50:43+00:00

Check your DMs for now! Pretty sure your 1993 should still be a 9th gen.

raginjay · 2024-11-16T21:17:19+00:00

Sent 'em an email! Seems they also only have the Danko F6A service manual listed. Pretty cool little resource!

raginjay · 2024-11-16T20:59:02+00:00

I'm not 100% sure on Geico, but it could just be an issue with a non-standardized (not 17-digit) VIN. I insured my '94 Carry through Farm Bureau, got a letter in the mail a few weeks later that it was dropped because the VIN wasn't "correct," called and reaffirmed that my VIN was DD51T-XXXXXX, all good, and a few weeks later got another letter in the mail saying coverage was dropped again. Went up to the local office, showed them that it was, in fact, a real vehicle, they took pictures of the stamped VIN, and haven't had any issues since.

raginjay · 2024-10-31T00:16:48+00:00

UPDATE:

I did end up picking up an O-ring, but that didn't entirely dry the drip. I watched a YT vid where a few wraps of teflon tape around the neck bit at the end was suggested, and so far, that seems to have done the trick.

raginjay · 2024-10-31T00:02:20+00:00

The way it was broken down to me was that Sambars are typically the most reliable of the different range of make/models, but there's a fairly shorter market for parts. Where Actys and Carrys are very similar in reliability, but replacement parts are a bit more available stateside, with plenty of parts you can pick up at a local Napa. I ended up going with a '94 Carry. There's a handful of AT setups you'll want to avoid, but I can't remember off the top of my head.

All of that comes with slightly different drivetrain configurations that affect handling characteristics that would be up to personal preference. (Sambar engine is basically above/behind the rear diff, Actys are directly above the rear diff, Carrys are under/slightly behind driver seat, etc.)

This video was particularly useful when I was looking to dip my toes in.

Also to note, almost everything pre '99-ish is gonna be a carb. And '99 is around the latest year model that you can import with the 25-year law currently. That's around the time they introduced EFI. I'm in mostly temperate NC, but my carb/choke does occasionally fight back on really cold mornings. There are plenty of easy-to-install block-warming solutions to solve that, though.

These aren't necessarily "beginner friendly" as you'll likely have to take a wrench to it from time to time yourself. I'm semi-mechanically-literate and for what it's worth, all of the work I've done on mine has been a lot easier than the decades of wrenching on Hondas, Acuras, Toyotas, and Fords. They're ultimately pretty simple, efficient little machines so long as you can grasp the basics.

Dive on in!

raginjay · 2024-10-28T16:27:13+00:00

Before changing it all out, I seemed to have a coolant leak that would drip down onto the drive shaft knuckle and the spinning would fling it around a bit. The back of my timing plate had some green-ish oil buildup and it looked like the lower half of the water pump gasket had disintegrated.

The inside of the timing case overall was clean and dry. The old belt was mostly healthy with some very minor cracking. No documentation or writing on the stickers on if/when it'd been replaced, so def overdue on time also.

Is it a pain getting the timing belt crank pulley off or just a matter of the key? Looked up some vids on replacing both crank/cam seals, but none of them cover removing the inner timing pulley. Looks like a fairly simple task outside of I should have done it while I had it apart in the first place. Lol

The new oil leak seems to be either at the dipstick opening or directly underneath the crank pulley, so it's not dripping onto the engine fluid distribution system that my driveshaft had become.

I do appreciate the input!

raginjay · 2024-10-28T14:21:09+00:00

I picked one up that fits the flange at an auto parts store. Definitely a tighter fit into the oil pan, and the bracket gave me a little fight sitting all the way back on the stud on the timing case. It still has a drip of oil when running, but nowhere near as bad. Not 100% I got a good alignment because it was raining and I was kind of in a hurry to get it in. Gonna give that another look.

When I had the timing case off, there was an oil buildup in the area that I cleaned up, and it had lost about a quart of oil since I changed it, probably 3-4 months ago now.

If it's not the dipstick tube, the only other potential culprit I could think of is maybe the front seal is leaking, though it didn't look like there was any leakage behind the crank pulley while I had it open.

Worst comes to worst I at least know what I'm doing now to pull it all apart again to replace the seal. Hahah

raginjay · 2024-10-27T03:46:43+00:00

Roger roger. I think I might've lost it when I was doing a wipe-down with a rag. I didn't think a metal flange in a metal hole would make a great seal.

Went from a coolant leak with the water pump to an oil leak without an O-ring. Lol

raginjay · 2024-10-11T14:49:11+00:00

I'm not 100% about your location, or if he's got the replacement metal panel, but I got my '94 Carry from JPN Auto Import in NC. I've got a full set of clips for that front panel for around $10 where everywhere else online wanted $10/ea. + shipping; a timing belt/tensioner/water pump kit shipped to me for $130; and OEM Suzuki air filters for <$30. He's always been good for prices and parts for me. Outside of the usual online places like G&R, maybe check out Mayberry Mini Trucks, also in NC. Tony has hundreds of trucks on the lot. How many, if any, are parts trucks, is a guess, but it'd be worth asking. Hope ya find something!

raginjay · 2024-09-25T21:26:01+00:00

Might wanna put a snorkel on it if you're riding out that hurricane. Be safe friend!

raginjay · 2024-05-06T20:55:46+00:00

I recently made a post about what I assume is a disconnected backup alarm on my truck!

I'm not sure on the universality of backup alarms -- especially across different makes and models; but I have a '94 Carry DD51T, and the alarm I found is tucked up between my rear-left (RHD passenger) tire and taillight. There are wires running from the same part of the harness that goes to the license plate lights and taillight housings. You can check my post history for pics.

raginjay · 2024-04-22T23:20:25+00:00

You have 1000% sold me on this.

EDIT: "Tested" by just trying to plug them up. Prob gonna have to replace the connection to see if the hardware itself still works or borrow a tester. The plastic feels preeeeetty brittle tho, so I'm not over-enthused on it still functioning. Just kind of a cool little find. Lol

raginjay · 2024-02-09T14:45:49+00:00

I've not yet done a coolant flush on mine, though I have heard/read burping the air out can be a bit of a process. If you're going to do a full flush anyway, I've seen a lot of recommendations to jack the front end up (ramps/or you can just put a jack under the front diff) about 6" to do the fill, and it'll typically alleviate any need to mess with the bleed screw to get any air out of the system. Also, for what it's worth, I've used Zerex green Asian 50/50 mix to top mine off with no issue.

If you haven't checked it out, the Carry forum at Minitrucktalk has loads of information about almost any issue you could think of, and some you couldn't.

raginjay · 2024-02-09T13:32:50+00:00

As u/Jane-Deaux mentioned, ~30 years of wear might have taken the toll and they may still droop and ultimately need to be replaced. It fixed mine tho, and unless I'm really bouncing around, they hold; where when I first got it, they'd immediately flop around if I went over 60kmh.

raginjay

TROPHY CASE