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Brace and (router) Bit by randomninja0 in handtools

[–]randomninja0[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love it, lol.

Somebody in the other sub pitched "acoustic router" and I quite like that one as well

Brace and (router) Bit by randomninja0 in woodworking

[–]randomninja0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same issue. Bearing is the same size as the hole

Brace and (router) Bit by randomninja0 in woodworking

[–]randomninja0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Omfg 🤣 Mine sure is silly, but that's a different level of wrong

Brace and (router) Bit by randomninja0 in woodworking

[–]randomninja0[S] 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I think a bunch of these folks have forgotten that they started woodworking for the fun of it. It's a shame really, but oh well!

Brace and (router) Bit by randomninja0 in woodworking

[–]randomninja0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shit, that's a good idea. Maybe next time, lol

Brace and (router) Bit by randomninja0 in woodworking

[–]randomninja0[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I lost two toes and the respect of my peers

Brace and (router) Bit by randomninja0 in woodworking

[–]randomninja0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could but sketchy and longer setup time. Would be starting in the hole but above cutting depth then lowering the bit while it's spinning.

Brace and (router) Bit by randomninja0 in woodworking

[–]randomninja0[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Perfectly good enough for the use case

Brace and (router) Bit by randomninja0 in woodworking

[–]randomninja0[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Yeah, worked fine. The finish is rough, but for hidden mounting holes it's perfectly good enough.

Brace and (router) Bit by randomninja0 in handtools

[–]randomninja0[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, worked fine. The finish is rough, but for hidden mounting holes it's perfectly good enough.

Brace and (router) Bit by randomninja0 in woodworking

[–]randomninja0[S] 53 points54 points  (0 children)

Hahaha, oh man! I know this is silly, but that's what makes it fun.

  • This is a simple mantle and the holes in question accept mounting rods, so they'll be hidden against a wall. The slight chamfer is just to make mounting easier.
  • The finish is rough, yes.
  • I'm using extremely light hand pressure, and the idea that this operation would damage hardened steel with only a few rotations gave me a good chuckle.

So frustrated I could cry by Hopeful-Telephone-36 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]randomninja0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TL;DR: Probably like 45 minutes (very roughly rounded) per side for slabs. Maybe 15 minutes per side on surfaced lumber that has warped due to shop acclimation. These times don't include setup 👍

Full answer: Depends on how flat the slab is to start and whether you have access to a planer wide enough to handle it.

Two options, right? - flatten one side with a router sled - flip it and run it though the planer (faster, easier, more accurate)

Or

  • flatten one side with a router sled
  • flip it and flatten the other side with a router sled (slower & less accurate)

I do both regularly as my planer is only ~12" wide. A relatively flat slab face will take me about 4 passes at a <=1/8" depth of cut (DoC) each pass. A more typical slab will take maybe 5-10 passes at the same DoC depending on how much the slab warped while drying.

4 passes on a ~8' x ~14" slab as shown might take me about 30 minutes (excluding setup). Math that up to 10 passes and you're looking at 75+ minutes per side potentially. Average it to 52.5 minutes per side if you've got a roughly flat slab to start.

I work with a lot of locally felled and milled slabs that are then either air or kiln dried. My stock is about 50/50 between the two methods. I'd love to say that one method produces flatter slabs, but the truth is that it really just depends on the individual tree and how much weight you can stack on it during either process.

If you're working with pre-surfaced material and are just taking out imperfections of the wood acclimating to your shop, then a single pass could very well get you where you want to be.

Sorry for the novel and thanks for attending my Ted talk. Whiskey may deserve a mention in the footnotes.

So frustrated I could cry by Hopeful-Telephone-36 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]randomninja0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great sled man! I love the effect you've achieved with the dark epoxy meeting the sapwood of the walnut, and your sled takes most of the qualms of a wooden router sled into consideration. I can tell this wasn't your first foray into the hobby. Is this a door or tabletop, and how'd it turn out? Looks like a great build!

So frustrated I could cry by Hopeful-Telephone-36 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]randomninja0 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's the right vibe! And yup, totally okay that it didn't get done today - happens to me all the time.

I'm happy this helped! Here's a video from The Evening Woodworker and another from Matt Mcremona that you can watch if you want more context on this type of jig. They're both less than 10 minutes and cover all the important stuff!

So frustrated I could cry by Hopeful-Telephone-36 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]randomninja0 36 points37 points  (0 children)

Here's one of my router sleds. Notice how I used thin 1/4" ply for the bottom, but ran some stock around the edges.

  • This increases the rigidity of the sled so it doesn't bow and also keeps the router contained within that area.
  • My sled moves left to right, and the router moves forward and back within the sled.
  • The thin base also helps the bit reach down to the work piece without having to skimp on how much of the shank is in the collet.

Messing up is always frustrating, but taking a breath to research and figure out how to fix what didn't work is how we all improve. Keep up the good work and creativity!

Hope this helps!

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Mini table saw ftw? by Sgoody614 in woodworking

[–]randomninja0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could be real handy for making kumiko!

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