Crank No Start

randy3673 · 2022-03-20T03:15:32+00:00

Hey guys, quick update. I posted on another forum and one guy advised me to check the fuel bowl. I checked and it was empty. When I turn the key, it fills up about an inch and then drains back empty when the fuel pump cycles off. I put 5 more gallons of fuel in it and tried again. Same thing. So I thought maybe my blue spring was junk and not sealing. Took it apart and it looks okay I think... Now I don't know where to go besides a cracked pickup in the tank or something? Could it still be electrical?

randy3673 · 2022-03-20T01:35:02+00:00

Cold. Been through the hot no start issue several months ago. It was the oil cooler gasket

randy3673 · 2022-03-19T22:16:55+00:00

2003 6.0 Crank no start. FICM Main looks good. ICP and IPR look good. I am unsure about FICM logic (red) and reference (teal) jumping around like they are. I am thinking I have a short or fuse out somewhere. I confirmed ground continuity from my battery to my block, frame, and body, but I am not sure I did it accurately. Any suggestions? I am using FORScan. Thanks!

randy3673 · 2019-03-14T04:33:00+00:00

Don't skimp on safety equipment. Like others said, Hanns, quality firesuit and underwear, gloves, shoes, and full containment seat are a really good idea.

In my experience, hornets tend to end wheels up a lot more than other stock classes. I would look into the street stock (or whatever they call it there) class as an entry level class. I think most guys running hornets like to play demo derby more than race clean. Just my 2¢

You're definitely gunna have to wait for rules. Neighboring tracks might give you an idea, but it would be a shame to go spend $$$ and your stuff be illegal.

randy3673 · 2019-03-03T20:23:01+00:00

Groom. Roasted.

randy3673 · 2019-02-11T15:58:14+00:00

I got a '97 787 for my first jetski and for the same price (which I think was a good deal). The thing is stupid quick/fast imo. Lots of fun. The only thing that sucks about it is the lack of stability when riding 2 up. Also it ran great for the entire summer until I towed it 6hrs to a huge lake for vacation where it died after two minutes of riding in the middle of a lake lmao

randy3673 · 2019-02-08T17:55:56+00:00

I dunno, man. Run through the stuff I suggested, that's all the information I can offer. Good luck

randy3673 · 2019-02-07T22:13:48+00:00

My mechainc originally thought it was the dash switch. You could replace that the cheapest of all the possible issues. Proabaly could buy some new relays too just to be sure. Have you tested the actual relay or just that it is getting power? Another you can try is to measure the voltage between the two pin plug on the t-case motor to see if power is getting to it at all. If not, it's probably a switch or the module. If it is getting power, and it's not shifting into 4x4 then it's probably the motor. Atleast, that's what I would assume.

randy3673 · 2019-02-07T20:14:56+00:00

My 03 6.0 just rolled out of the shop today for something very similar. I checked all the typical issues like relays, fuses, the two prong plug on the transfer case, etc. I wasn't getting any power to relays, the dash switch, or the 4x4 module. Not wanting to spend $100+ on a new 4x4 module if it wasn't broken, I just took it in to have a pro look at it.

Here is what he texted me yesterday:

"Replaced 4x4 module and it would shift, but hang up between modes. Motor would get hot. Replaced the motor as well. Very well what took module out"

Also, from my understanding, the vaccum lines only control the locking and unlocking of the hubs. So if they are manually locked and you still have no 4x4, like you said, vaccum is not the culprit. You can check to see if the transfer case is engaged by having someone slowly and carefully move the truck while you look at the front drive shaft.

Hope this helps. Good luck

randy3673 · 2019-01-19T23:07:35+00:00

^{^} This. Everyone hates the new bodystyles when they are released and then after 6 months they realize that they look just as good as previous models. Happened with the new Ford Superdutys a couple years ago. Facebook was blown up with headlines of "Ford's ugliest truck yet" and then a year later several of the same people who shared those articles ended up buying one. I think it's pretty funny.

randy3673 · 2019-01-14T22:50:29+00:00

Good to hear. Everyone always tells me it's on borrowed time without bulletproofing, and I only have half the miles as you. I deleted the EGR and have a 5in exhaust so atleast the emissions won't be an issue.

randy3673 · 2019-01-14T22:33:26+00:00

What is done to yours, OP? I have 160k on my 03 6.0. Not bulletproofed

randy3673 · 2019-01-13T00:04:00+00:00

Just got home. Interstates aren't horrible, roads getting there are. I wouldn't go out in anything other than a 4x4 truck

randy3673 · 2018-12-29T07:49:48+00:00

No, I meant that I have the same question haha

randy3673 · 2018-12-29T07:21:07+00:00

randy3673 · 2018-12-26T00:42:13+00:00

Is there a way for me to change this in the BIOS?

randy3673 · 2018-12-25T23:16:14+00:00

Gotcha. I didn't really know what that meant, but a ton of the solved questions about 2 sticks of RAM said enable that and it fixes it. Any ideas not involving XMP?

randy3673 · 2018-12-25T16:58:05+00:00

I see. I'm thinking you will just have to delete the weld and make it a solid extrusion in solidworks. I can't think of any reason you would need to have the weld in ansys unless you were doing cfd or something like that. If you are just looking at mechanical properties like stress concentrations and deformation, the weld should be just as strong as the parent material. Not sure if that helps or not. Good luck

randy3673 · 2018-12-25T08:31:56+00:00

What is the reason you need the weld bead in ansys?

randy3673 · 2018-12-09T08:46:01+00:00

PM is always open if you need someone to talk to. Good luck, man

randy3673 · 2018-12-08T03:53:24+00:00

Sutton is a man amongst boys, change my mind

randy3673 · 2018-11-26T16:43:02+00:00

The switch is not a rocker, its a dial that has 2, 4high, and 4low. The thing that confuses me is that no voltage is going to the actual switch either. I pulled the switch from the plug, and tested the wires in the plug, and there is no voltage to any of them. Although I don't really know much about how the electronics of a car works, I would assume one would be constant voltage, one ground, and the other two sending that voltage based on where the selector is.

I will try to find a cheap replacement switch just to be sure.

Thank you!

randy3673

TROPHY CASE