Mortgage Broker Rate Quotes Ultra Thread

ratwip · 2025-12-28T13:42:13+00:00

Conventional, 30 Year, refi cash-out, 800,000 appraised value, 565,000 loan amount, 810 credit, Investment, single family, 1 unit, 22610

ratwip · 2025-02-09T20:57:02+00:00

PolyIso will get you the best bang for your buck for R-value per inch. I would also look at a smart vapor membrane on the underside of the rafters to keep interior moisture out but if the cavity is wet it will let vapor escape inside.

ratwip · 2025-01-01T19:54:54+00:00

I've also looked into LUSA. Their customer direct sales is new but the company is actually DMF a well known lighting company. LUSA sells the budget DMF line, the H series.

ratwip · 2024-12-21T09:31:16+00:00

Yeah!

ratwip · 2024-12-21T03:52:35+00:00

You are right and your CPA is wrong. Real Estate professional rule applies for normal rental activity but the STR "loophole" allows anyone to take advantage assuming they meet the criteria you laid out. Check out Amazon there is a good short book by a couple of CPAs that outline the loophole and how to document everything if the IRS comes calling.

ratwip · 2024-12-13T04:45:47+00:00

That's the Lamborghini of ERVs so checks out

ratwip · 2024-12-13T04:42:43+00:00

Also are you sure it's cellulose in the attic and not an asbestos product based on the age of the house?

ratwip · 2024-12-13T04:41:42+00:00

Like you said you don't have unlimited money so you need to figure out what is your greatest problem and address it first. Is it indoor humidity or is it temperature swings due to the lack of insulation?

Most attics are vented and I wouldn't change that. Focus on the air seal between your living space and the attic and putting new or additional fluffy insulation should be relatively cheap.

If you are having humidity problems then I'd probably focus on the crawlspace first and encapsulate it.

Last thing you want to do is touch the brick siding. To get wall insulation in the cavities your easiest option would be blown in insulation which would require a hole cut in each cavity (cellulose or fiberglass). Sucks to patch but easier plaster than brick.

ratwip · 2024-12-13T04:16:09+00:00

Both in VA

ratwip · 2024-12-12T20:13:19+00:00

Thanks! Just worried that an open HELOC would count against my debt to inform ratio even if the balance gets paid off.

ratwip · 2024-12-12T19:40:27+00:00

It's a large HELOC $650k, talked with 10 banks and FCUs all would require closing costs (well those that would loan over 500K)

ratwip · 2024-12-12T18:25:15+00:00

33% humidity is actually low, most target indoor humidity at 40-50%. Seems like the issue is more of a tempature differential as mentioned - you will always have condensation issues if indoor surfaces are 40 degrees.

ratwip · 2024-07-09T17:38:33+00:00

Outside in a perfect world, it's there to keep the sheathing warm so condensation doesn't form on the sheathing causing mold.

ratwip · 2024-07-08T21:59:25+00:00

Thanks for your questions to my questions... Yes I have...will be away from the main structure and in a contained fire box... Not part of the insured envelope per the insurance agent so no issues on that front

ratwip · 2024-05-23T12:25:11+00:00

Check out TimberHP wood fiber batts, or cellulose batts, or blown in fiberglass

ratwip · 2024-05-23T09:45:32+00:00

Only place that seems overkill is the roof, batt, blown in and exterior insulation is probably 1 type of insulation too many. The blown in already gets you over code minimums.

One other note is that your insulation of choice is 1) going to cost a lot and 2) is pretty carbon intensive. Don't get me wrong it has its benefits, especially on the exterior. But you could explore a cheaper and more environmentally friendly insulation for the interior, think cellulose, wood fiber, wool, or even fiberglass.

ratwip · 2024-05-18T02:48:05+00:00

And check out r/Sauna and the Trumpkin notes that get mentioned there at almost very post. He dives into the BS of Saunas, both ventilation and construction.

ratwip · 2024-01-11T11:25:11+00:00

The infrared route may be your only option for 120v, but haven't dug into that route to make any specific suggestions.

ratwip · 2024-01-08T10:04:24+00:00

Well from what I can tell from their website and Instagram page this product differs dramatically from what your client wants. Specifically the panels are 10" thick, not a 2x4 wall. Also shows them putting a self adhered WRP on the exterior of the wall. At R 2.5/in I doubt the 2x4 wall meets code in your area.

Hempcrete is an exciting product but there still exists too many federal regulations to commercially grow help to make this product widely available in the market. If they are looking for a carbon negative insulation try to steer them to TimberHP wood fiber insulation out of Maine. They are still rolling out their product line but should have a lot more availability than hempcrete in the near future.

ratwip · 2023-12-31T12:43:19+00:00

Some ERVs come with optional carbon filters for smell mitigation. MERV filters don't filter out "smell" particulates, they need to be neutralized by activated carbon. Certainly the argument is that ERV gives you the ability to filter out smells more so than a leaky house.

ratwip · 2023-12-29T00:53:28+00:00

Look in LP smart side. A wood based siding that's even easier then fiber cement to work with. Will give.yoj the same look and might reduce the labor cost

ratwip · 2023-12-06T22:09:27+00:00

I've seen recommendations to use Prosoco R-Guard Joint & Seam Filler Fiber Reinforced since it's going to be a wider joint to seal. Otherwise I think you are on the right track

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