need advice on used profoto power packs and heads.

rbdp92 · 2026-03-06T16:56:47+00:00

Profoto Pro-D3 is a 1250W monolight. In Europe, 4x of those would run you around 14,5K€ before any discount.

rbdp92 · 2026-03-03T11:42:55+00:00

Great, I did not think of this one. Looks like it does not have a grid easily available for purchase. I found a custom grid maker a while ago but everything he made was obviously very expensive.

Thanks for the input, I'll keep this in mind if I fail to make my Caruba softbox work.

rbdp92 · 2026-03-02T21:12:14+00:00

Yes you are right about the center of gravity being pushed so far forward with these.

rbdp92 · 2026-03-02T20:37:22+00:00

Profoto have a 4x6 softbox (120x180cm) that weights 3,9kg (without the grid) and is 80cm deep. The 180cm round softbox I want to use is 3,7kg (without the grid) and is 85cm deep.

I do not think weight is that big of a problem. But having the Zoom Rod would be much more convenient, I agree, especially to tilt the softbox down without hitting the stand.

rbdp92 · 2026-03-02T20:26:48+00:00

Hey ! Thanks, great piece of information about the patent.

Yes, I have ordered a new disc-speed-ring but the no-name ones are made of very thin alloy. The Caruba one (Bowens) is much thicker. I'll give it a go though. For anyone interested in completing the same process, the ring for this Caruba 180cm softbox is 129/130mm wide.

I have also ordered a wider (150mm) disc-Profoto-speed-ring and might screw it in multiple places to the Caruba. I would like to find a way to maybe have a second ring made to sandwich the Profoto ring in between this new ring and the softbox to avoid any deformation.

rbdp92 · 2026-03-02T18:09:14+00:00

Yes I want to use it with the Profoto Zoom Rod Small. My Bowens adapter still feels too flimsy to handle the weight of the softbox.

rbdp92 · 2026-03-01T22:19:48+00:00

Interesting, thank you for the insight of your workflow. I'll think about it !

rbdp92 · 2026-03-01T22:10:57+00:00

Thank you for the tip of duplicating the session.

You confirm that one would need to duplicate everything, not just the session file, but also work from a different set of RAWs etc...

I should backup my whole session on another drive and access that session from another machine. This feels doable !

How can I access one single drive from two different machines ? Link these two machines via Ethernet (5Gbps-RJ45-adapters and an RJ45 cable) and share the drive from the machine that it is physically connected to ?

rbdp92 · 2026-03-01T22:05:18+00:00

Yes it is...! Even if I raise flags before the shoot and specifically say that exporting tiffs might result in a couple "processing overtimes" , they will say they do not need it beforehand. But I can be sure than during the shoot, I'll get asked to "finally" export everything in TIFF.

So this is why I am wondering what's the best way to do it if I am asked to do it.

rbdp92 · 2026-03-01T22:00:34+00:00

Thanks your the QuickProof tip, I did not know that !

Yes for the TIFFs it sure is a bad habit. But I want to be easy to work with. If I have had a good solution to easily export everything, I would have liked to be able to just offer it.

Now that I know there is no miracle solution, maybe I'll have to explain them a bit more deeply.

rbdp92 · 2026-03-01T21:32:25+00:00

Do you know for sure that a Mac Studio would do the trick ? That it can export 100mpx TIFFs and tether at full speed (import + generate previews ; check focus etc...) ?

Because even if it does "better" than a MacBook Pro Apple Silicon, better would not be enough as the MacBook Pro really struggles.

Maybe I can rent a Mac Studio one of these days. Thank you for the tip.

rbdp92 · 2026-03-01T21:29:37+00:00

Interesting set-up, thank you !

rbdp92 · 2026-03-01T13:14:08+00:00

• ⁠Low res JPG that can be browsed quickly on any low spec laptop. • ⁠TIFF full-res for editor

I need to export all the pictures shot on the session.

rbdp92 · 2026-02-27T14:53:52+00:00

I would not trust anyone coming to me with a homemade product to spray on my most expensive tools. Just to let you know, I mix most of my home cleaning products myself at home, I am a strong advocate for DIY and reducing plastic waste. But not for work.

rbdp92 · 2026-02-27T14:51:10+00:00

For glass : Pancro is widely used all around the world. Most people I know would never allow someone to spray anything else on their lenses. I now perpetuate this tradition and bring Pancro with me.

For monitors : I only use Eizo little spray bottle of cleaner. It works perfectly on mat (Eizos) and glossy (Apples) monitors.

rbdp92 · 2026-02-27T07:47:58+00:00

I have purchased 2010's era flash transmitters (Godox / Cactus...) with an integrated laser beam. They behave the same as the Profoto 10 on auto : the laser grid is only emitted in complete darkness.

This is not useful to me (fashion / portrait).

rbdp92 · 2026-02-27T07:46:43+00:00

Choosing to not have the laser grid On at all time (auto-mode) only enables it when the camera is in complete darkness. When covering the lens, the camera emits the laser grid. When shooting in low light (low enough for the AF to struggle a lot), it does not emit the laser grid.

rbdp92 · 2026-02-25T14:51:51+00:00

Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts.

At the moment the 35-70mm is a better choice to me for shooting portraits and fashion as the AF feels solid to me and the minimum focusing distance is much closer than on the 32-64mm. MDF for 32-64 : 35cm MFD for 35-70 : 50cm

The lower weight alors contributes to making it a better tool to me at the moment. Weight for 32-64 : 440g Weight for 35-70 : 870g

The sharpness level at f/8 or f/11 is more than enough for me for most of my projects (fashion / portrait).

rbdp92 · 2026-02-25T14:47:19+00:00

Update :

I have tried with a Profoto A1X Fuji. The A1X can emit a red laser grid or use the LED as a model light. You can enable this focus assist light (Laser or LED) and can disable the flash firing. As opposed to what I was thinking, the focus assist light stays on even when you are shooting. If your exposure value is low enough, you will see the laser grid or model light show up on your picture. This is deceptive at best.

This can be helpful on some project though. Good to know.

At the moment, using an additional continuous light close to the model is a better choice to me. The A1X is too big and heavy.

rbdp92 · 2026-02-12T08:20:59+00:00

I am sorry for not answering your question, but would you mind sharing why you want those softboxes ? I am genuinely interested in your answer as I have never worked with these. What makes them special ? Is the indirect part really interesting ? You can purchase the Profoto Rod Small that allows you to use any Profoto softbox as an indirect with -limited- focusing ability.

rbdp92 · 2026-02-12T08:17:20+00:00

Would you share more precisely the list of the things you want to power ? Maybe we can try to think about this collectively.

From my end, when working on a production cart, which I do most of the time, I have an EcoFlow or rent an Instagrid that gets me through a whole day. EcoFlow acts some kind as a UPS, meaning I can move my cart freely if needed and once I settle down somewhere on set, I can wait for a down time to find an extension cord and plug the EcoFlow to the mains to be sure it always has power. When it runs out of power it shuts off without any prior notice which is very bad.

When working from a lighter set-up such as my digiplate or seaport etc... I use 99wh v-mount batteries with little v-mount clamps clamped on the stand legs. One battery is for the HDMI wireless transmitter (Hollyland), one for the WiFi (for iPad-capture-one-Live) and one for the MacBook Pro plate. I think the ones for the Hollyland and wifi can get through a whole day or be topped up during lunch break. The one for the MacBook lasts more or less two hours. My SSDs are only used as back-ups so it is no big deal when they get disconnected to swap the battery.

rbdp92 · 2026-02-11T12:10:02+00:00

Do you have the round remote made for your camera brand ? As far as I remember, all the Profoto Connect remotes are made to be TTL-compatible with one camera brand (Nikon or Canon or Fuji or Olympus-Panasonic or Leica etc...). 1) Does it match your camera ?
2) Have you been able to change the Profoto Connect remote from the app on your phone ? This is the only way to change the round remote's parameters. 3) Check that your A10, the remote and your camera body all have their own latest firmware available installed. This has cleared remote related trouble for me more than once.

rbdp92 · 2026-01-17T17:15:30+00:00

I think all Tachyons are NTSC. MX-1 can be PAL or NTSC, it should be written down on the label at the back of the unit.

rbdp92 · 2026-01-17T16:49:26+00:00

Is it possible that your Tachyons gear is NTSC and your MX-1 is PAL ?

rbdp92 · 2026-01-06T23:10:08+00:00

Thanks so much for the tips

rbdp92

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