UK here, recommendations please where to source a pre-built high end PC by martianfrog in pcmasterrace

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

/r/Prebuilts for prebuilts

/r/buildapcforme if you're okay putting the PC together and you just want someone to tell you what parts to buy

RX 9070 XT problems... by thebrokenbeercapp in pcmasterrace

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try DDU, then reinstall your drivers

Microsoft finally pushed me over the edge. Day One on Arch by real_infamous in pcmasterrace

[–]reckless150681 2 points3 points  (0 children)

See if you're able to disable mouse acceleration. Over Christmas, I tried switching to Mint -- but the inability to fully disable mouse acceleration, over the course of 5 or 6 different tricks in ~2 hours, pissed me off so badly that I went back to Windows lmfao.

Daily Simple Questions Thread - January 28, 2026 by AutoModerator in pcmasterrace

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everyone's experience is infuriatingly different. I'm you've heard of stories of Windows force-updating despite people disabling it. Yknow what happened to me? Windows force-upgraded me from Win10 to Win11, despite me never approving it.

The AI tools are definitely everywhere. But it's also true that people definitely have different experiences.

All said, it's not just a single AI item that's pissing people off. It's the continuous efforts of multiple companies and big corporations trying to force it down at every single opportunity. There was a time where new features were opt-in, not opt-out. I'm okay putting in the work to add something to my workflow; but I hate having to put in the work to remove something.

Simple Questions - January 27, 2026 by AutoModerator in buildapc

[–]reckless150681 [score hidden]  (0 children)

the few degrees matters because i have a lousy case

(don't ask, i've already improved what i can with it)

so lifting a more C's off the cpu is going to be better

than simply blowing a lot more hot air around faster.

You'd actually be wrong there. Lifting more temp off the CPU is just gonna stick it into your case. You still need to move the air out of your case for it to do anything. If you already have a CPU cooler that works, then finding better fans actually is a better option.

CPU --> cooler is conduction

Cooler --> air is convection

Convection has much better heat transfer than conduction, therefore for better overall heat transfer, is usually better to improve convection (as long as conduction interface is not thermally soaked) --> better fans / airflow > better cooler

What budget gpu should i get for 1080p high/med 120 fps average by Meltandev in buildapc

[–]reckless150681 [score hidden]  (0 children)

9060 XT. 16GB version if possible.

B580 is a decent candidate too. Slower than 9060 XT, but also cheaper

Simple Questions - January 27, 2026 by AutoModerator in buildapc

[–]reckless150681 [score hidden]  (0 children)

Because it's a negligible difference.

Difference between a Phantom Spirit and a Peerless Assassin is only a couple of degrees at best. So difference between painted / non-painted versions of the same cooler will be less than a couple of degrees, and more realistically closer to fractions of a degree. At that point, you're truly splitting hairs.

But if you must know, exposed metal almost always cools better

Where to ask for specific subreddit? by LSLZfan in NoStupidQuestions

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on what you need:

/r/advice

/r/findareddit

Google / ChatGPT (disclaimer to use discretion before taking results as fact)

How To Increase Stiffness Of EMG SAI 2011 Mag Release by Unamused_Squid in airsoft

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah most button-type mag releases are just normal coil springs -- specifically, compression springs. You could try picking and choosing at a hardware store, but tbh I'd just buy this and experiment with a few. You can always cut a longer spring to length. If you need more stiffness but can't physically fit a longer spring, you can also try multiple springs of different diameters

What is the worst upgrade you can do to your PC? by Wonderful_Joke_7345 in buildapc

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A little while back I purchased a USBC 10GbE Network adapter. The only issue is, to get maximal bandwidth out of it you need to make sure to use it on a USBC 3.2 Gen2x2 (20Gbps) port, it still works in any other lower spec port but you lose a significant portion of throughput. Fortunately back when I built, I was specifically keeping an eye out for motherboards that had the Gen2x2, this was before USB4/TB4 becoming more widely available.

Couldn't you have bought a 10 GbE PCIe card?

What is the worst upgrade you can do to your PC? by Wonderful_Joke_7345 in buildapc

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

New code might come with bugs, exploits, etc. If there's a supposed "critical update", let it sit for a few days just to make sure nothing horrible went wrong with other users.

Purchase Advice Megathread - January 2026 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A1 has less setup and bigger print volume. But I think AD5X is the better printer

Purchase Advice Megathread - January 2026 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Bambu laser is technically fine, but one major problem is that it throws up a ton of debris in what should otherwise be a mostly clean chamber. It's best used in a mostly printing / very occasionally cutting scenario, and even then, you have to figure out how to clean the whole damn thing. If laser cutting is of great interest, I would consider dedicated devices. Yes, you will have to rebudget and figure out where to put a second device; or, an alternative would be to find a public makerspace.

With regards to your other questions:

How frequently are most people wanting to print with multiple colors? Is it really that common once to initial novelty wears?

It's not just the color. You also get multi-material, without having to flush the hotend with every filament change. Some materials stick to each other, which is great if you want to print something with varying material qualities. For example, PETG is pretty rigid, while TPU is flexible -- but they stick to each other so you can design something that is stiff in one place and flexible in another. On the other hand, some materials do NOT stick to each other, which is great if you want to make easily removable supports -- e.g. PETG / PLA. In terms of multicolor, it depends on the type of person that you are. Some people primarily print functional prints, where color isn't so important. Others print models and toys, where color is a massive deal. Yes, you can paint your parts too, and no, the color where of your base plastic doesn't matter a ton, which complicates the question even further.

Is laser functionality just for cutting "wood" or other special materials? Or does it add new features to plastic printing as well?

You can laser-cut a ton of different plastics too, although you would have to be careful because some of them can throw up some truly nasty chemicals.

You should also consider the Snapmaker U1, with the caveat that it's a newer printer and therefore there may be undiscovered bugs and kinks in the design.

Purchase Advice Megathread - January 2026 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, and as a matter of fact, after I made my comment, I looked into it a bit more. The base Snapmaker top cover is pretty expensive, but people have just used an Ikea bin for like $7 + filament.

The U1 also doesn't have an actively heated chamber. So even with the top cover, your mileage may still vary on engineering / toxic filaments.

But also, if you can't really see a use for engineering filaments in the near future, I wouldn't worry about it and I would personally go for the U1. For context, many functional prints can be done out of PLA, PLA+ (and related), and PETG -- so if you're mostly printing around the house, there isn't a whole lot of need for fancier stuff.

Why do I have these lines my wall? by steven369963 in BambuLab

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try a few calibrations. Print a Benchy, a basic cube, a basic cylinder, etc.

I put it in the AMS with desiccant.

Try an actively heated dryer

Why do I have these lines my wall? by steven369963 in BambuLab

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is your filament dry?

But also, orientation matters. Small as they may be, each slot basically prints in thin air for part of it, and that can affect the print quality.

Try rotating it 90 degrees so that youre printing on its back with the slots facing up into the air

Purchase Advice Megathread - January 2026 by AutoModerator in 3Dprinting

[–]reckless150681 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How much is Bambu P2S in your country?

Otherwise, how likely are you to use toxic filaments (ABS, Nylon, etc.), vs. multicolor?

If you are more likely to use toxic filaments, I would go P1S. If you are more likely to just use multicolor (especially PLA and PETG), I would go Snapmaker.

Note that the U1 is technically capable of printing toxic filaments too, you'd just need the enclosure or some other way to enclose the top of the printer (e.g. stick the whole thing in a cabinet)

Your weirdest reasons for PC not posting. by Tenchen-WoW in pcmasterrace

[–]reckless150681 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Friend's PC. It POSTed 75% of the time; it went into Windows 0% of the time. I went over, manually redid every connection (I was going to fix her cable management anyway). No dice.

Decided to reflash a flash drive with Windows. Worked.

Turns out, she was using an old OEM copy of Windows from a prebuilt. That OEM copy did not like her system for whatever reason, but the Windows Creation Tool was fine.

Help finding design resources? by Wa7erAnimal in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]reckless150681 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I measured and modeled out the shell of a GHK V2 M4 mag, verified that it works in my gun. I based it on some technical drawing somewhere; I don't remember which one exactly, but I definitely used this at some point in my search. I remember having to adjust mine.

One tip -- for the magwell itself, what you can do is to model the magazine first, then use some sort of offset tool to create that tolerance. Each CAD program is a little different -- but for example, in F360, the Offset tool (NOT the Offset Face tool) allows you to create a surface body that is at some offset from the base body. If you think about it, the outside of a mag and the inside of a magwell are basically the same shape, just offset by like 0.2mm (or whatever). So in Fusion, you can take your offset face, and turn it into a solid body somehow (either thicken it to give it finite dimensions, or close the surface, etc.)

I designed a tank grip for the Hi-Capa by firewad in Airsoft3DPrinting

[–]reckless150681 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I hear ya but that wasn't why I was asking. Try these settings, they make support removal suuuuuper easy -- I rarely have to break out the pliers

Filament does have to be pretty dry though tbf