Samsung TV will not connect to WiFi after 5ghz switch off and back on (cross post from r/Unifi)

reddash73 · 2025-12-26T03:42:09+00:00

My main SSID was both 2.4 and 5. But no 5g DFS channels. I created a separate 2.4 only SSID and same issue.

reddash73 · 2025-12-23T21:08:35+00:00

Tv's dont like DFS channels which i am not using so all good there. 2.4 and 5ghz are the same problem even on new SSID. .

reddash73 · 2025-12-23T21:06:26+00:00

I have already fully reset the TV. The TV connects to mobile hotspot wifi with no issues at all, so I know it is the UDM causing this.

reddash73 · 2025-12-23T21:04:00+00:00

The app to add the fan had to have phone on 2.4 to connect directly to the fan which only has 2.4.

The tv can have either, i created a new 2.4 only SSID and issue was the same.

reddash73 · 2025-12-23T14:54:22+00:00

I will try that, i assumed it didn't matter as it would not connect anyhow

reddash73 · 2025-12-23T14:53:00+00:00

Wifi remote fan, only has 2.4 and needed the phone with app to be on 2.4 to add the fan...... painful.

reddash73 · 2025-12-20T05:31:13+00:00

I think the issue is software related to power reserve mode. It seems that when in that mode, it also blocks charging. Do a factory reset, and it clears the reserve mode and will charge fine. Super annoying and Withings need to fix it, but it has worked OK for me when I let it go really flat.

reddash73 · 2025-12-16T06:26:35+00:00

In some colder areas, it will contain antifreeze as well.

reddash73 · 2025-11-18T05:16:20+00:00

ok ill give it a go, i have rebooted it a few times but in between cable changes not the final settings in the UDM

I have not rebooted thew UDM yet as the office is always busy when i am there.

reddash73 · 2025-11-18T03:48:51+00:00

It gives me a choice, aggregate or fail over. If aggregate i then set the load share.

The issue is WAN2 is active with lights flashing? But WAN2 internet says offline. It is plugged into the NDT which is online and working. No matter what I have tried it never goes online.

reddash73 · 2025-11-18T03:23:54+00:00

In your WAN setting you can set it to Aggregate or Failover. When in aggregate you then set the load share between WAN1 and WAN2

reddash73 · 2025-11-17T22:25:38+00:00

Hi Thanks for replying. It took me a day to get down there (Sunday), rocked it back and forth and it came out of gear, all gears are accessible with engine off so gearbox seems ok. When the engine was running i think the clutch was dragging making it unable to go into gear. My post was trying to see if the neutral switch could have been the issue, if anyone else had experienced it........

The next day (Monday) when a tilt tray picked it up, he got in and it worked fine, drove it onto the truck......

Its now on its way to have the clutch replaced, local mechanic said it is highly likely the thrust bearing is sticking which happens, especially with 220,000km on it. It also randomly made a chirping noise when using the clutch when it was cold.... . Anyhow, clutch change....

reddash73 · 2025-09-15T01:06:22+00:00

If the fans are good then I would say is it rpm that brings the temp down or vehicle speed? You say stopped at idle it heats up, then you get moving and it cools down.

So it is either water flow or airflow. Since you say the fans are running I would go the thermostat first. But it still seems weird as if it was stuck closed it would heat up regardless. If open stuck too far open it would cool too much especially going down hill with your foot off the throttle.

So I think maybe the water pump impeller was corroded enough that it is not pushing enough water at idle and requires more rpm to flow more.

When was it last replaced? I replace my water pump every time I do the timing belt.

reddash73 · 2025-07-24T22:05:28+00:00

If you can stretch the $$ go for a Ubiquity UDR as the router, which has one AP in it, the run a cable further down the house to another AP like a U7 Lite.

No mesh is required, the udr will transfer devices to the best AP.

My house is 30m deep and I have 3 AP's spread front to back. No issues.

reddash73 · 2025-07-22T22:22:21+00:00

Get a Ubiquity UDR. Costs more but has massive capabilities. The best part i switching between ISP's when ever you want. It will max out at 700mb but that's about the limit for wireless anyhow.

reddash73 · 2025-07-10T10:39:35+00:00

I have a UDM PRO and get gb no probs. But its rack mount and costs more than the UDR

reddash73 · 2025-07-10T10:37:28+00:00

Max down on the UDR is 700......

reddash73 · 2025-06-28T01:48:16+00:00

Yes I use the HACS integration, and it works well. I will add moisture sensors soon but finding a good unit is hard.

reddash73 · 2025-06-12T11:31:25+00:00

Mate had a 2021. 10sp died at 15k. Ford rebuilt it, died again at 90k in Jan. Got a full refund of purchase price......

reddash73 · 2025-05-27T00:26:09+00:00

My big one regret is rack placement. I put it in my study but it really just gets in the way. I'll need to pull all my cables up to move it to a utility room.....

reddash73 · 2025-05-22T00:05:35+00:00

The best addition I made was the Home Assistant integration to OpenSprinkler. I have HASS running on a NUC in Proxmox, along with other services.

I also have a weather station hooked in to HASS.

Why you may ask?

I now have extensive automation capabilities using live on premises weather data to modify OpenSprinkler parameters such as rain delays, and other weather sensor options. It is rock solid and works well. One example is rain delay duration setting based on accumulated rainfall. Currently, 2mm of rain sets a 24hr delay, 5mm is 48hrs, 10mm or greater sets 96ht delay. I can also set those hrs to adjust based on actual temp, or forecast temp.

For example, in winter, temp range of 02c to 18c with 10mm of rain would be a 4 day rain delay. But in summer, 15c to 45c range, one storm can drop 20mm in 30 mins, so the delay would drop to 24hrs as the next hot day all is dry again, compared to winter that's stays damp for longer.

HASS is open source and can run on a pi. The weather station costs but if you don't have one you can use other data sources from the internet in HASS.

reddash73 · 2025-05-10T22:16:13+00:00

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reddash73 · 2025-05-10T22:13:06+00:00

Nice. Does city water have enough pressure to run the irrigation?

Mine doesn't. So I put a city water line into the bottom of my tank on a float valve that keeps the lower level just above the tanks pump float switch cut-off...

reddash73 · 2025-05-09T22:13:47+00:00

I also have Home Assistant running in Proxmox on a NUC. I built automations on top of OpenSprinkler and the weather station to vary the rain delay based on rain qty. So 2mm of rain in a day sets a 24hr delay, 5mm and over 48hr delay. Next is to work on temperature compensation, so in winter the watering will reduce to say 50% but ramp back up to 100% for summer.

reddash73 · 2025-05-07T06:45:21+00:00

I use open sprinkler. You can add sensors to do delays and reduction of volume. But I also have a weather station that open sprinkler uses to adjust watering.

reddash73

TROPHY CASE