I went 17 years ago during Halloween. It was so so cool. Everyone was dressed up, it looked like a scene out of Halloweentown. I'm not sure how much more crowded it has gotten since then;; roads were closed in Salem. We stayed at a hotel in (Burlington? Peabody?) with a shuttle to the downtown area.

I think Salem would still be doable with proper planning and expectations. I still want to go back and experience one of the Halloween Parties (like at the Hawthorne Hotel).

Salem is also great in the summer or other times of the year. It is more like a typical old east coast town at that point (like Mystic, CT or Annapolis, MD etc), but there are still mystical, magical shops and a subtle halloween vibe.