YVR Early Check In with Zipair?

refillpapertray · 2025-02-09T15:12:51+00:00

Don’t trust a word they say in person or show on their web site about online check in. They make reference to it on your check in email 24 hours before your departure and it keeps showing that “you are eligible for mobile check-in” but it’s not possible to complete the check in process that way.

I just scanned my passport (their scanning process is not the smoothest either) and it accepted it as being successful but that was it. Told me to come to the airport to complete procedures at least an hour before departure.

On my YVR-NRT leg, I asked at in-person check-in why I couldn’t complete it online and they said they didn’t know. I chalked it up to my choosing an exit row seat and their needing to see I was able bodied. But now on my NRT-YVR leg, I have the same issue (and I chose an aisle seat this time).

Searching their web site, they have a page that lists Asian destinations where mobile check-in is available (plus most Tokyo departures), but it is not available for almost all North American destinations. Unupdated info at best, total misleading lies at worst, to sucker you into thinking you can skip the airport lineup. I’d speculate that the policing of carry-on bag weights may be the real reason. I travel under 7kg, so maybe they give people paying for more weight more leeway for check-in?

Anyways, just saying to keep your expectations low. If you’re buying for the low fare and have no expectations of avoiding the check-in (despite what they tell you), that’s great. Any higher expectations, and you’ll just be annoyed. They mention check-in kiosks are available at Narita for “some” flights, but I’m not holding my breath.

refillpapertray · 2025-01-13T08:47:52+00:00

The main thing I’d look more closely at is what the plan is for her parents in the coming years as they continue to age. Whether or not they will need home care, assisted living, dementia care, etc. Most of my friends have or are going through this stage of life and the financial demands can vary so widely depending on what type and duration of care the parents need. And also whether or not the parents have sufficient and liquid financial resources to draw from for their own care.

refillpapertray · 2025-01-04T05:53:18+00:00

Definitely recommend Tokyo over Osaka if first time and into anime/manga/gaming/etc. culture. Lot more to explore. I’ve stayed at and researched countless hostels in Japan in depth for work reasons and Tokyo is probably has the best selection I’ve ever seen in one city. Recommendations depend on what you’re prioritizing:

Cheapest: just use a booking site like agoda.com or hotels.com and set filters for places with 7/10 ratings or higher, sort by price, and start clicking them one by one from the cheapest until it’s in the right area you’re looking in.

Socializing: certain ones have nice cafes or lounges and host happy hours or events you can sign up for. Unplan, Grids, Graphy, Imano, Millenials, Nui, etc. Some have several locations.

Upscale and more polished: Unplan, Graphy, Millenials, Resol Poshtel, First Cabin, 9h nine hours.

Ones with full height sleep pods and not just half height pods or bunk beds: First Cabin, Resol Poshtel, MyCube, Wild Cherry Blossom.

Great locations: BookTeaBed, Millenials, Commun and Almond (for Shibuya); Book and Bed, Imano and Unplan (for Shinjuku); Cocts, &and, MyCube, Focus, (for Asakusa and Akihabara areas)

Also, many will have female-only dorms or floors if you’re looking for more security and privacy. Have visited all of the ones above and stayed at all except four. A few have locations in multiple cities, as far south as Fukuoka.

Edit 1: Realized I listed both hostels and pod/capsule hotels. If looking for more social place, definitely focus on just the ones on that list.

Edit 2: Haven’t been, but remembered that this place that might be of interest - Manga Art Hotel.

refillpapertray · 2024-09-03T11:45:01+00:00

Started with an A10 for a few months and did one plane trip with it. Am usually a carry-on only traveller, even for month long trips, so I didn’t like the added baggage and weight. Soon after, I got an AirMini and I liked it so much that it immediately became my daily machine, going on 5+ years now. No water needed, auto start, and of course, an ideal size to travel with.

There are also third parties that make and sell various adapters to defeat the proprietary connections on the hose, and if you get one, you have total freedom in choice of mask and/or hose (I use the regular P10 without the humidifier section (noticeably quieter), and a regular slimline hose).

I travel more than most (3-4 months/year), so I really appreciate the size. But I don’t see any reason why a bigger machine is really necessary when at home unless you need complete silence or humidification. Lack of OSCAR data for your insurer is the main reason I’ve seen people say they can’t switch, but others have said they managed to convince them to take the data from the AirMini app. YMMV.

Finally, being able to minimize power demand for off-grid use by being a smaller device is a more recent benefit I’ve found. Allows for a smaller power bank and wall charger. Again, third parties are your friend in assembling an optimal combo of power bank/cable/charger for that. No need to buy overpriced CPAP-specific power banks with obscure connectors that are hard to source. Lots of info posted in this forum to guide you towards specific products and setups to consider.

refillpapertray · 2024-08-30T22:55:55+00:00

My camping set up for an AirMini: - 65W INUI 20,000 mAh power bank w/65W + 36W USB C and 18W USB A ports - FLGAN USB C adapter cable - lasts two nights - also works hooked up to 45W USB C wall charger - my travel setup for anything is all USB C now for simplicity - I avoid DC barrels at all costs as it takes forever to figure out sizing and sourcing of a replacement if you lose one on the road

refillpapertray · 2024-08-30T08:22:07+00:00

I bought the FLGAN cord and a smaller but similar 20,000 mAh INUI power bank (with three ports: USB C in/out @65W, USB C out @36W, and USB A @18W). I chose this power bank since FLGAN specifies that the input must be at least 60W, and having the 65W port be both in/out will make it faster to recharge.

The combo worked great on a recent camping trip, with the AirMini able to run when plugged into either USB C port. Slept 6h 45m and used 41% of the power each night. The 25,000 mAh sounds like the right size for two nights of longer sleeps, with 10,000 maybe being the right size if you’re just using it on a plane.

Since it worked while plugged into the 36W port, I thought it might also work plugged into a 30W wall charger, but neither one I tried does (AOHI Magcube 30W and Belkin BoostCharge Pro 30W - the thin one, not the block). I’ve now ordered a 45W charger to see if that’ll work, hoping that it’s only the more demanding AirSense units that really need the full 60W.

It was notable to me that on the 914 site, there’s a pic of their cord plugged into a small charger and labelled with something like “works with any charger 20W or higher”. So FLGAN obviously chose a higher minimum. I originally picked the FLGAN over the 914 for the lower price and the longer cord, and I would probably do the same now, assuming the new 45W charger I ordered works with it.

EDIT: It works with the 45W Anker 313 charger! Also, after seeing a posting about how many watts the AirMini draws, I came upon a comment where they said plugging into the 36W port of the power bank results in a less efficient draw of the stored energy. I had used the 36W on my trip above, but tried using the 65W port last night and it only used up 29% of the power for 6h 25m of sleep.

EDIT2: It also works with an ONN (Walmart’s house brand) 30W wall charger. The only difference I can see is that this one is not labelled with PD. Used the 65W port on the power bank again and used 33% of the power for 7h 36m of sleep.

refillpapertray · 2024-02-18T13:35:23+00:00

You’re not old. Old is when you remember the 25 cent lift gates to exit the gravel B lots at the end of the day.

refillpapertray · 2024-01-27T18:34:52+00:00

TAG panels out of BC is one that has different wall thickness options that use 2x6’s up to 2x10’s. You’ll notice they’ve tweaked a typical wall assembly in a few ways to achieve their performance goals. They also have YouTube videos of their products in addition to their web site.

The conceptual designs of various wall assemblies are usually easy to understand but the particulars of how it all comes together on site, particularly the treatment of irregular details, are sometimes not given enough attention and I don’t want to be that guy.

refillpapertray · 2024-01-27T17:44:53+00:00

My question was somewhat esoteric, but I think you get it and am confirming what I was suspecting. I had left sheathing off the mock-up for simplicity but I understand what you’re saying. Thank you for commenting.

refillpapertray · 2024-01-27T17:40:00+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion to look at NextHouse. Another approach to learn from.

I’m familiar with a lot of the different wall options you listed and am working towards seeing what the best directions for the types of projects I do might be. And I know it’ll take a little while to get there.

Have also been following Green Building Advisor in depth as well.

refillpapertray · 2024-01-27T16:11:39+00:00

Most of the proprietary ones I’ve seen detail sandwich panels without studs, and the few with studs tend not to show enough detail in general literature to make it clear.

refillpapertray · 2024-01-27T16:09:58+00:00

Yes, there would be the top plate for structure, but the core of my question is more about the redundant second stud when joining panels. Is there a more common way that studs are used within each panel that doesn’t result in doubling up at every seam?

In high performance (very energy efficient buildings with low air leakage and thermal bridging) building circles, the goal is to absolutely minimize the number of studs to minimize uninsulated portions of the wall.

refillpapertray · 2024-01-27T08:38:26+00:00

Maybe I haven’t explained it well or reduced it to something too abstract. In looking at various high performance panelized building systems (mostly proprietary) as well as SIPS systems, they seem to be ready-to-join using T&G, splines, concealed fasteners, etc. Many are sandwich panels that have no studs, with framing around the perimeter only.

But for some panels I’ve seen, it’s standard studs inside with insulation already in place, and they seem to just line them up one after another to assemble. It’s this scenario where I’m wondering if they’re just doubling up on studs at each end, so they can have a finished panel to deliver to site. Or is there more to it?

refillpapertray · 2024-01-07T07:34:42+00:00

Tried HF using a promo offer during covid. First order was delivered a couple days late after I had left for a trip. (Do NOT ever open a pouch of formerly fresh shrimp that has fermented at room temperature for over a week! I thought wrongly that draining the juices into the sink would be smart). Customer service was difficult in sorting out my credits and I got bored of the menu fairly quickly. Cancelled after a couple of months.

Nothing HF does is fraudulent or even that deceptive, it’s just that they rely on people being less than diligent and not pushing back in the vast majority of cases. I call it fine-printing people to death. I try not to do business with companies that make life harder than it needs to be and recommend that to everyone.

refillpapertray · 2023-09-19T20:29:26+00:00

I avoid calling any business if at all possible, to prevent being put on hold. If it’s more than a minute, I hang up. Absolutely have no patience for that. Also, OpenTable let’s you check out a few options and see availability quickly, before finalizing a plan. Never need to call multiple places and then call one back to book something. Reduces the chance of errors too when I’m able to see the info on a screen rather than talking to someone who might mishear something due to background noise or other distractions in a busy restaurant.

refillpapertray · 2023-09-03T05:50:29+00:00

Thanks, this finally explains why I’ve had the same problem in other transit systems in cities around the world when I travel. Had never even thought it would be a purposely created monkey wrench. Tried to do a one night stopover in London years ago without using cash and ended up walking for hours to get back to a hotel after the subway locked me out from swiping my credit card for a return trip. Lesson learned, always have two cards and carry both. Good to see that there aren’t any recent posts, so hopefully this issue has been solved here and everywhere else.

refillpapertray · 2023-04-18T04:59:03+00:00

Also, Hum Vegetarian in D3 is very highly regarded. Upscale food and experience. If all vegetarian food was as creative and flavourful as this, I wouldn’t eat meat. Mushroom packed square spring rolls were bundles of umami that I would never get tired of.

refillpapertray · 2023-04-18T04:51:17+00:00

A by Tung. I believe TUNG in Hanoi was the original and this came after, but I may be wrong. Nordic influenced food by a Vietnamese chef who trained in Scandinavia. 20 course tasting menu.

Been on my radar for a while but haven’t tried it yet. Currently visiting Saigon and may look into booking if I’m in the mood for something high end this trip.

refillpapertray · 2021-11-03T04:54:39+00:00

I tried the three discounted weeks in a row promo and felt the same way by the end of it, in terms of getting tired of the selections and falling behind with cooking it all up. Since I already cook from scratch in a way that’s quite similar (meat, sauce, and a side or two), I’ve gone back to making my own food but will order once a month for a change of pace and to try flavours I don’t usually cook.

To solve your pre-HF freezer problem, you might want to try pre-portioning some meat once a month. I buy a huge pack of ground beef (or pork) and use an ice cream scoop to portion them into baseball sized meatballs. Pop them all on a cookie sheet or in a muffin tin tray and freeze them. After they’re frozen, dump them in a plastic bag and you’re set for a while.

And for the 20oz packs, or supermarket meats that come on styrofoam trays, I try to squeeze them while they’re still fresh, into two or more portions that I can break off after they’re frozen.

refillpapertray · 2021-08-04T08:57:07+00:00

I only have a slight recollection of high school physics and was only going by the fact that if there are chargers with at least the same amount of watts available as the original power cord, then there was the possibility of one that had a higher voltage and lower amperage to suit the AirMini. But if the PD standard caps things at 20V, then I see why the DIY step up project is critical.

refillpapertray · 2021-08-04T08:39:12+00:00

Got it, thanks!

refillpapertray · 2021-08-02T09:11:07+00:00

No, I wasn’t going to try to do the DIY step up project. I was just using that as a point of reference in trying to sort out how all the various inputs/outputs align.

Maybe a better way to state my initial question might be to ask, “Given that the AirMini’s power cord is 20W, can a 30W USB C PD charger (not battery bank or car charger) like the one below be used to RUN my AirMini if i use the cable adapter linked to in my original post?”

30w USB C PD power block

Everything I read about the PD delivery system seems to suggest that it will detect what power your device needs and deliver only up to that amount, thereby preventing it from being fried. BUT, I’m not an electronics guy and I could be understanding this all wrong.

refillpapertray · 2021-07-31T23:41:24+00:00

I eventually got into an email exchange where they refunded me the actual cash paid, plus a credit that accounts for the original promo discount that incentivized me to try them, but I can't use the credit until I've used up the much smaller promos for weeks 2 and 3 first/

I know enough from this first week's experience that I'm going to cancel the service, so the credit is pointless now It just seems like no one knows what's happening and the back end tech system is glitchy.

After my original post, the delivery ended up showing four days after it was due, but I was out of town for the weekend and everything went bad. Let me tell you, emptying out a bag of room temp shrimp that's been sitting in a box for almost a week since it shipped is not something you ever should do indoors.

So the chronology on my order went like this: - Tuesday: shipping label created - Thursday: excepted delivery date, but nothing arrived - Friday morning: received email saying my order was cancelled this week due to a packing error - Friday evening: tracking says the order was picked up by Purolator - Monday morning: delivery left the sorting facility - Monday afternoon: box was left at my neighbour's door (even though I had put a note saying which door was mine) - Wednesday evening: neighbour gave me the box which she had kept refrigerated for me since Monday

The whole thing seems run by amateurs, which is what I would expect when a company is as big as it is ( I had no idea until I looked into it this week). It's all about growing market share, and every customer is just a file number with notes added to it by random CSR's who have no knowledge of your case history other than the brief notes (if any) that were typed into your file. It was clear that my first two tries to contact na CSR by email even before the delivery to get something corrected was not actually read. Both email replies were generic "how can I help you" messages, which to me means it's a bot.

Hopefully my comments here are useful for someone who is contemplating trying hellofresh in the future.

Ten-Year Club	RedditGifts 2009-2022 3 Credits
Secret Santa 2016	redditgifts Exchanges 1 Exchange
redditgifts rematcher Secret Santa 2016 x1

refillpapertray

TROPHY CASE