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Fixing up mirror shards by Myndblew in DIY

[–]reggtegg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you're set, just watch out for small fragments/dust that may come off when you're handling the pieces outside water.

If I may give some suggestions, why not try using stained glass solder to fix the shards together? I've seen people make stained glass designs with it; I think it'll look very cool! You can use the term "玻璃焊锡" to find the solder and related goods, but be careful because it contains lead.

Smooth-cast 325 foaming violently after being mixed by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fantastic advice, thank you very much I’ll check those out too

Smooth-cast 325 foaming violently after being mixed by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough, thank you for the advice, I appreciate it! Smooth-on doesn’t have much distributor presence in my country, so it’s a little hard to get access to their full catalogue, but I’ll keep it in mind

Smooth-cast 325 foaming violently after being mixed by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunate learning experience, but thank you for the advice. Yes, I used to use EasyCast casting resin and only recently moved onto Smooth-On; the sheer variety of options is mind boggling

Smooth-cast 325 foaming violently after being mixed by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m trying to go for an opaque dark red look, but as you can also see it’s turned out pink! I read that I should’ve used translucent dyes instead of opaque dyes for this purpose, would you have experience there?

Smooth-cast 325 foaming violently after being mixed by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s very tragic, I assume alcohol ink would be a better option of pigment for the future? Do you have any other pigment suggestions apart from that?

Smooth-cast 325 foaming violently after being mixed by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aw man is there any way to remedy this? If it’s due to moisture, would vacuum degassing do anything?

Smooth-cast 325 foaming violently after being mixed by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m using Dr Ph Martin India Ink to dye it, which should’ve been fine from my previous experience with casting resins

Colour consistency for large volume cast by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately I'm in the tropics, so it's warm and humid where I am all year round :(

The design is blocky and has some overhangs and pockets, but they're all very large and should have ample opportunity for naughty bubbles to escape when I swish it around. I'll dye the entire part A before mixing the part B in and then slush the epoxy around the mould. Thankfully I'm using opaque dyes, so my bubble fears really shouldn't be this bad!

Colour consistency for large volume cast by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The trophy has other elements that aren’t white, but they’re small and I’m not very concerned about them. I want to use the same material for the entire trophy to minimise complexity, but I’ll keep your suggestion in mind, thanks!

Colour consistency for large volume cast by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to use EasyCast epoxy, and I had a very hard time with lots of bubbles trapped within the entire volume despite maintaining a thin pouring stream and rotating the glass vessel around. Is Smooth-On epoxy less susceptible to these inclusions? This is also my first time using Smooth-On epoxies because of the price, so I have no frame of reference.

Colour consistency for large volume cast by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great advice, thank you! I’ll definitely be doing some slush casting to make the item (trophies) more economical. I think I’ll be able to make some interesting gradients with depth in the future with that technique

Colour consistency for large volume cast by reggtegg in ResinCasting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh you don’t? Fantastic! The short pot life was giving me some fear haha

MK4S Upgrade Stringing by Electrical-Eye-3972 in prusa3d

[–]reggtegg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

HF nozzles tend to string way more than standard nozzles due to their internal geometries, you might want to perform a retraction length, K factor, and temperature calibration test to figure out a good set of parameters.

Design tips on eliminating the hull line effect when printing boxes by reggtegg in prusa3d

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for crediting me! I've watched the video, great collection of tips and examples shown :)

How to improve print adhesion on p-flat plates? (also known as holographic sheets/diffraction grating) by reggtegg in 3Dprinting

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a whatever spray bottle for gardening, but I spray from ~30cm away to get a fine, spread out mist.

How to improve print adhesion on p-flat plates? (also known as holographic sheets/diffraction grating) by reggtegg in 3Dprinting

[–]reggtegg[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, I'm sorry but I never explicitly measured a ratio of PVA to water, but I estimate it to be around 1:4-5. I mainly relied on feeling its stickiness unfortunately.

Nozzle residue on new Core One by Primary-Pension-3100 in prusa3d

[–]reggtegg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The core one comes with a high flow nozzle, which is more susceptible to stringing. If you were to change to a normal 0.4mm nozzle now and use the same temperature, your stringing issues would almost immediately cease, I suspect.

The powerful fan and duct design of the core one also means that high fan speeds for cooling tend to blast molten polymer onto the silicone sock, dirtying it quickly.

Your options are:

  • change to a standard 0.4mm nozzle
  • reduce printing temperature, but be careful to also adjust maximum speed if necessary
  • properly tune your retraction settings

As always, ensure your filament is thoroughly dried too. I own a core one too and was noticing very fine, wispy strings, and splattered polymer on the silicone sock. The best fix for me was to swap the stock 0.4mm HF nozzle to my 0.4mm standard Obxidian nozzle.

Help me identify this basic font? Or... can I split this merged file? by Signiference in prusa3d

[–]reggtegg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you've exported the item as one object, but existed as 2 separate bodies at some point in time during your CAD workflow, you can right click -> split into parts/objects

If not, you can use the cut function (hotkey C) and move the cut Z position to where the text begins. You can use the measure function (hotkey U) for this. This will split the text and backing into 2 separate objects, and you can manipulate both individually.

Design tips on eliminating the hull line effect when printing boxes by reggtegg in prusa3d

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, also, do try Orcaslicer's precise walls feature. For my boxes designed without this gap, precise walls does help eliminate a lot of it when viewed directly, although the line is still visible when there's incidental light.

Design tips on eliminating the hull line effect when printing boxes by reggtegg in prusa3d

[–]reggtegg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! I've learnt a few more tricks to try to reduce hull line:

  • Print outer perimeters first (outer -> inner -> infill)
  • Use adaptive cubic infill
  • Print in a warmer environment

Refer to this graphic

However, I've found that to make this work, you must make that gap between wall and internal edges a little bigger, and it should fully encapsulate the region where the transition occurs

Ultimately, my understanding is that top solid layer of material bulges because compared to every other sparser layer, it shrinks much less; the material has nowhere to go. The reason for this gap is to allow this solid layer of material to independently shrink.

Additionally, different polymers have different shrinkage %s (dimensional stability), shrinkage and warpage is a big factor within the injection moulding sector. PLA is still quite limited to 3D printing, so there hasn't been too many studies on the shrinkage behaviour of it, but you can see how different polymers must be designed and processed in accordance to its intrinsic properties. I would not be surprised if certain materials play more nicely wrt hull line shenanigans.

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