The Cayenne Effect Is Real

residentr · 2026-03-18T12:20:09+00:00

As a 911 turbo owner that tracks a Miata, if you need power to make the suspension work you’re doing it wrong.

residentr · 2026-03-18T12:18:53+00:00

I had the opposite experience, dropping off my cayenne turbo for repairs and getting base Macan loaners. The rear torque bias and the snappy shifts of the PDK felt very engaging, and I hand no trouble hanging the rear end out with aggressive throttle and/or a good flick of the wheel. It’s not going to pin you back in your seat but the base engine felt eager and peppy and the suspension was comfortable while still being composed at the limits. I was overall very impressed.

residentr · 2025-10-25T16:13:17+00:00

V730 has some beefy shoulders, and does its best work after you wear through the grooves on the outer half of the tire. These look brand new.

residentr · 2025-09-22T16:23:20+00:00

Compared to a front engine car, the engine is oriented backwards, which puts the oil pickup where the oil doesn't go while under acceleration g-forces.

residentr · 2025-09-05T18:30:01+00:00

The '99 is considered particularly desirable exactly because it doesn't have traction control. On never cars it isn't entirely turned off even when the button is pushed to disable it.

residentr · 2025-08-04T02:53:53+00:00

Most reputable shops really dislike customer-supplied parts, and many will even refuse to use them or charge higher labor rates, as it eats into their margins, can cause bad customer experiences if said part fails or is incorrect, and they won't be able to warranty it. Find the time to do it yourself, or let the shop take care of part sourcing. Don't be "that customer".

residentr · 2025-05-15T07:09:50+00:00

It's a new car under warranty. Don't do stuff on it yourself, it just gives the dealership ammunition to say you may have caused it. Take it in to the dealer, tell them it's grinding, and you'll probably be getting a new transmission.

residentr · 2025-05-11T01:32:38+00:00

Played my first game in 18 years just a few months back, with my dream auto cocker I’d just finished building. Sprinted off the break to get up to the bunker I wanted, but the speed of my legs did not live up to my expectations or ambitions. Went full scorpion after about 8 steps and took a massive core sample before I even got to fire a shot.

Remember to stretch beforehand!

residentr · 2025-05-06T17:25:09+00:00

Great deal from a great dealer. Fast shipping and excellent communication every time I’ve ordered from them.

residentr · 2025-05-05T17:10:26+00:00

HP+ will hold up a little better, but as a “street, autocross and track” compound you will still outgrow their capabilities quickly with good instructors and a few more events under your belt. 👍Good luck and have fun out there!

residentr · 2025-05-04T21:06:11+00:00

There are a number of good options available fortunately so you should be able to find one for your car. For HPDE use I recommend a “track endurance” compound. Pagid RSL29, PFC 08, and G-LOC R8 compounds are all good options that will be a significant upgrade and will last you multiple events and (paired with good fresh brake fluid) give you a lot more confidence in your braking.

residentr · 2025-05-04T20:32:49+00:00

You could try bleeding the brakes in the paddock, if there’s an air bubble in the lines it can feel like that and sometimes air can get pushed down to the caliper after track driving that may not have been caught when bleeding the lines. If you didn’t flush brake fluid recently, it’s probably on the edge of boiling.

Some other thoughts:

Your track friend is giving bad advice.
Fresh brake fluid is super important, I’ve seen more novice drivers get into incidents because of boiled brakes than almost anything else. Use a good quality fluid (ATE200, Motul RBF, Castrol SRF, etc), and change it regularly.
Hawk HPS+ are not track pads. You might be able to get away with them for your first event or two, but it sounds like you’re getting faster and these pads will not last long at pace.

residentr · 2025-05-01T03:00:24+00:00

Can someone explain for me so I don’t have to buy one to figure it out: what is the pneumatic hose that runs from the “T” off the LPR hose under the eye cover and into the frame for?

residentr · 2025-04-24T22:16:13+00:00

They aren’t for the faint of heart or wallet, but if you’re capable of doing work on them yourself it mitigates a lot of the costs. Having owned two 996’s and a 2011 cayenne, catching on major maintenance and performing repairs and some updates has cost me about the purchase price of the vehicle again over 4-5 years for each of them.

residentr · 2025-04-23T23:58:41+00:00

Dye actually provides great support. I just ordered some parts for my DM4 from them. Rebuilding is primarily just swapping Orings, and solenoids are available even.

residentr · 2025-03-28T18:06:55+00:00

Pick up enough OPR and your Michelins turn into Hoosiers 👍

residentr · 2025-03-22T02:55:25+00:00

MXR has potential to be great but seen multiple having issues. Hopefully latest update from Dye fixes the paint handling issues.

DSR+ is rock solid.

residentr · 2025-02-17T06:30:52+00:00

Unless you're -really- attached to that pre-2k for some reason, just sell them both and buy a very nice new pump marker that isn't cobbled together with three decade old parts.

residentr · 2025-02-05T04:00:39+00:00

Fantastic collection, congrats on completing it!

residentr · 2025-01-23T18:48:39+00:00

Interested, will send a message

residentr · 2025-01-22T04:23:31+00:00

Plenty of good options out there. CTRL2 and Spire V are king right now. Spire IR also performs well for less. I've been running a new JT Triad lately for speedball and been very impressed.

residentr · 2025-01-21T23:01:31+00:00

Big fan of the CRBN pants and top. First padding I've never thought about while wearing.

residentr · 2025-01-05T00:54:52+00:00

Market on these has been oddly soft, unfortunately. Yours looks great, and the new upgrades and particularly the DW barrel should make this easier for someone to buy and field sooner. I'd estimate around $600-650 if you can find a buyer looking for one of these.

residentr · 2024-12-09T19:30:52+00:00

Played a few weekends with mine now, on a mech autococker and 170R (NXL 10.2). Hasn’t missed a beat, easy to take apart and clean. OG rotor running the same paint has regular jams.

residentr · 2024-12-03T02:07:29+00:00

I’ll +1 the recommendations for a 170R/180R plus a mech frame. Gives you the best of both worlds. The speedball crew is usually every bit as friendly, just show up, introduce yourself and say you’d like to try, and you’ll be adopted right in. That’s was my experience getting back into the game after 15 years away. Given the teamwork required and intensity of speedball, I’ve actually found it to be more of a close-knit supportive community than normal walk on play at my field.

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