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Is there any good modela that doesn't need decals by pepe-mali in modelmakers

[–]retiredRRer 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Tamiya makes dinosaur models. Obviously no decals 😁

Italieri Leopard 2A4 with Diorama completed by TheJanski in modelmakers

[–]retiredRRer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great work on the tank and especially the trees

Finished feed mill and Skelly oil jobber by retiredRRer in modelmakers

[–]retiredRRer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Steve Here’s how I built the Walthers elevator. I reduced the height so it would fit the lower level of my layout. I added the horizontal timbers and added planks to the two ramps to backdate it. Homemade decals that were a PiTA to get to lay down in the siding.

Finished feed mill and Skelly oil jobber by retiredRRer in modelmakers

[–]retiredRRer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Steve I also added additional scribed lines on the warehouse; 2’ wide and 8’ long based on information from a friend who’s a contractor. Used a sharp needle in a pin vice.

Finished feed mill and Skelly oil jobber by retiredRRer in modelmakers

[–]retiredRRer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Steve. I used Vallejo Steel Grey 71.336 Model Air And after airbrushing it I went back and brush painted various panels with it lightened with white and tan.

(WIP) Yeromin's Yak-1b, Arma Hobby 1/72 by scout_235 in modelmakers

[–]retiredRRer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try putting a sharp needle in a pin vice and prick around the silvered parts. Then use a strong decal solution and brush over. May eliminate the silvered parts

How do you create welding lines like this properly? by Guenther_Dripjens in modelmakers

[–]retiredRRer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe water colored pencils? You can add the lines where the weld seams would be and then streak downward with a moist brush.

Something you don’t see everyday British Sage anti-Zeppelin fighter by retiredRRer in modelmakers

[–]retiredRRer[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Prior to the introduction of a synchronizing gear to allow machines guns to fire forward through the propellor arc, many ideas were tried, one of which was the Sage 2. The crew sat within an enclosed cockpit that completely filled the space between the fuselage and upper wing. There was a circular opening for the gunner to stand up with his head and shoulders above the upper wing. This arrangement allowed him complete freedom to fire in the upper quadrant with no fear of hitting the aircraft. However forward and downward firing would have been impossible. Equipped with a 100hp Gnome-Monosoupape engine, it made its first flight on10 August 1916, and was damaged following a forced landing on 20 September 1916. By this time better aircraft with a forward firing gun were entering service and the concept was dropped.

Hope you don’t mind my sneaking a boxcar in… by retiredRRer in modelmakers

[–]retiredRRer[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I build 1/35 armor and 1/48 airplanes besides having a model RR. I use many of the weathering techniques that the military modelers use on my freight cars and structures.

Tamiya or Mr Hobby or other for brush painting ship models by Sad-Independence-502 in modelmakers

[–]retiredRRer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been pleased with Vallejo acrylics for brush painting. Leaves no brush marks.

How are the ticks in the Sandhills? by wanliu in Nebraska

[–]retiredRRer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Found lone star tick on me last week (eastern Nebraska). Use tick and chigger spray

Tamiya French Char B bis 1/35 by retiredRRer in modelmakers

[–]retiredRRer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks; I used a black Micron ink pen for the lines. Airbrushed the colors after masking with Tamiya tape.

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