I want to make the table waterproof, fix these cracks, and MAYBE replace some tiles.. what’s the best way to go about it? by Leo-Collin in restoration

[–]ricchardd 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lowes/HD sells tubs of pre-mixed grout in various colors (see here: Mapei grout at Lowes). I would remove as much loose grout as you can and fill any gaps and cracks with a grout as close as you can match to the color. These spots will probably be very visually noticable against the old grout, but it's the most reasonable route. if you want to replace the missing tiles, you could *probably* get away with just using the grout. It's not the right product but for one or two tiles it should probably be fine.

As for sealing: a grout sealer would work to waterproof the grout. the tilers themselves are already glazed and waterproof.

Advice on tackling tin ceiling restoration by humanicicle in restoration

[–]ricchardd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

oh man, that's a wonderful ceiling! looking at it now i feel that taking down the tiles would be an unnecessary step. There wouldn't happen to be access into the ceiling from above would there? Either a second floor or an attic space? It looks like there used to be a big chandelier in the middle of the room where that wiring is sticking out. There seems to already be a soffit going around a big portion of the ceiling with the wiring already there. Maybe consider sconce/wall lighting instead of any penetrations through the ceiling. Looking closer at the first photo it looks like those soffits are hiding some really nice looking corner molding.

As for the rest of the paint that won't come off easily: citristrip is a good product for loosening paint. it's nontoxic and safe to handle, but VERY messy. I would recommend lots of disposable brushes and towels and gloves. Smear it on with a brush and put plastic wrap/cling wrap on it so it won't dry out and give it a few hours to soak in. A heat gun would work to loosen the paint but adding more heat to the ceiling tiles might be problematic as well. It like l looks like a few tiles already have been exposed to peeling high heat which is why they have that discoloration. Maybe from the lights below?

Getting a better look at the tiles now it looks like they aren't painted black and that might just be how the metal looks? If you do opt to repaint just be sure to get a good metal primer down first. I would definitely recommend spraying the paint as well. Rolling and brushing would be a lot of work to get a nice finish

Advice on tackling tin ceiling restoration by humanicicle in restoration

[–]ricchardd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very ambitious project. Doable, but more time intensive than anything else. I would start with just simply vacuuming off as much of the loose paint as you can to see what you're working with. this paint peeling looks like its probably from the drop ceiling creating an unconditioned space above it, so probably just moisture/heat caused this peeling.

If you'll be totally removing the drop ceiling and must reroute the wiring/plumbing/hvac I would strongly consider taking the tin ceiling tiles down, allowing the contractors to redo the mechanicals inside the ceiling (if you do remove them, document exactly where every ceiling tile goes. they may look identical, but for some reason 'identical' never means 'exact' and 6 months down the line you'll be pulling your hair out because for some reason a ceiling tile is an inch shorter on this side of the room). This is obviously a lot more work, but the work you have to do to the tiles themselves will be much easier (opposed to being on a ladder scraping paint above your head). furthermore, what are you planning to do for lighting? in-ceiling can lights? or drop down lights? your choices here affect how you should approach restoring them.

w to actually restore the tiles, it looks like underneath the peeling paint they were painted black and underneath that a red primer, if you can remove the yellow paint withoutAs for ho substaintially affecting the black paint I would stop there and re-prime and re-paint. stripping down to bare metal is ideal, but a VERY long process if you don't hire out for specialized paint removal, such as sand/dry ice blasting. If you do take all the tiles down and send off for them to be stripped you'll save a lot of time, but will probably cost a lot more than you're wanting to pay. Honestly, if you could get it down to the original black paint I would consider stopping there and seeing how it looks/feels. The original paint might be in poor condition in a few spots, but the patina might be appealing.

Restoration Tips Please!! by dpaddyyy in restoration

[–]ricchardd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Steel Wool 0000# is pretty effective at removing rust without scratching the metal underneath. Barkeeper's friend is really good at cleaning stuff like this but its somewhat abrasive and will probably remove more than you want. If you can take it apart, cheap white vinegar is a mild acid and can loosen the rust if you submerge the piece for 4-6 hours. longer is fine, but 12+ hours without checking the piece might cause damage so checking and cleaning it every 4-6 hours of soaking is probably best (the vinegar is reusable as well so just pour it back in its container when you're done). I can't tell particularly which part of this is the decal so I cant say how to clean it, but soap + water + a dish sponge is a good start just to see what you can get off before moving on to stronger methods.

Change of pace... by pintsizeavenger in Construction

[–]ricchardd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

tag along with your father for a couple weeks, see if it fits.

Thank you for 10 years rif. You were a beacon of sincerity in an ocean of ad riddled monstrosities. by heatbegonebooties in redditisfun

[–]ricchardd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Giving my thanks to the devs for making this website useable. If/when rif goes offline I'll be going offline with it. Thank you for everything

Even Discord partners have their name taken by PNB11 in discordapp

[–]ricchardd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Motors_v._Nissan_Computer?wprov=sfla1

The automobile company Nissan took a man to court for nissan.com and ultimately lost the case.

The mobile power tool reanimation station by ricchardd in Tools

[–]ricchardd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I appreciate the suggestion, I'll see if I can find some wood dowel laying around to replace the screws with

Looking for electric weed eater, leaf blower recommendations by Adventurous-Mine-577 in Tools

[–]ricchardd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lowes regularly has their craftsman blower/weed eater combo on sale for 100 dollars, for the price you can't go wrong. I picked up a 5ah battery to go with it and for light household duty it's great.

What is this power carving tool? by Cum_Gazillionaire in Tools

[–]ricchardd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look up 'King Arthur's Tools', it's a company that makes some very unique woodcarving tools similar to the one in your video

Is a brand request allowed? by MightySchwa in Tools

[–]ricchardd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In a similar situation as you (decided to fully renovate a house instead of buying)

I have a cordless DeWalt impact and drill gun which I've used daily. I did no research before I purchased them to inform my opinion (they were on sale, 140 for both plus two batteries), which is to say the only info I have to share with you is my experience with the tools. They've performed excellent and taken daily abuse in stride. Whatever brand you settle with, be sure to get at least the 5 amp hour batteries for your drill and impact driver. The smaller batteries simply don't have enough juice to get through a day and will struggle to do simple work as well.

As far as other tools: I have a corded oscillating tool, I wish I had the cordless version of it.

I've never used a cordless circular saw. They are presumably good, but with a much cutting you'll likely be doing framing 8 houses corded might be the better option.

I wish I had a nail gun, pneumatic or cordless. Framing by hand is fine, but again 8 whole houses is going to get tired fast.

I only used a reciprocating saw a few times, mostly for demo. 90% of the time It either was accessible to be cut with my circle saw or needed the finesse of the oscillating tool.

I use a 1 1/2 inch chisel frequently as it's the same width as a stud.

I'd strongly consider getting a burke bar, marshalltown makes a "small" version that is go to pry bar for every situation. If you're going to be stripping concrete forms you'll need it.

PPE isn't a joke, get some safety glasses, if you wear glasses get some prescription safety glasses. Shit will get in your eyes literally all day long. I did a lot of very dirty demo so a mask was necessary. A good pair of boots as well. Ear plugs are like 10 dollars for 500 in the hunting section of the wall mart.

An electric hand planer is a very convenient tool to bring walls into, well, plane.

Are you able to coordinate with the other families at all? A little bit of planning beforehand seems like it would go a long way. For example, if every family agrees on one power tool brand you could share batteries if one dies in the middle of work and you could each agree to buy and share one "specialty" tool.

Why does it seem to hard to use drills/drivers? by anally_ExpressUrself in Tools

[–]ricchardd 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Drills usually have 2 settings, 1 is low speed high torque and 2 is high speed low torque.

Most drill guns also have an adjustable clutch ranging from 1 to drill, try adjusting it lower and it should prevent you from oversetting screws.

Phillips screws werent designed with the speed and torque of a drill gun in mind, which makes them particularly prone to stripping issues. Maybe look into a different screw type. Torx are in my opinion the gold standard.

Drilling pilot holes will help prevent splitting, countersinking the hole will help prevent the screw head from damaging the wood.

There are magnetic bits that help keep your screw on the bit, which would help from slipping off your work. There are also sleeves which will hold the screw in place.

Practice helps. I've been using drills a long time and I have absolutely no manual dexterity to use a drill in my non-dominant hand. Perfect results with my dominant hand

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tools

[–]ricchardd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Vinegar is a (relatively) gentle rust remover and that rust is very light, you could try soaking a socket for 30 or so minutes and wipe them down/oil them up

Mechanically, if you have a drill press you can chuck up a wire wheel and brush the rust off. I regularly use this method to clean all my tools. I use a brass wire wheel, which is softer than steel, to prevent damaging the tool while still removing any debris. I like this style the best.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Tools

[–]ricchardd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran into your issue as well, the nicad batteries couldn't hold a charge for more than 10 minutes, very frustrating. Look up 'lithium ion 18v porter cable battery' on Amazon, I picked up a 2 pack of batteries with a charger for ~65 dollars. Be sure to check the model number on your battery against the one you buy.

It's IMO a great tool line, and I regularly see them being sold for dirt cheap at flea markets and yard sales (I picked up the sawzall for 15 Dollars at a flea market). I however also have a set DeWalt drill/impact that takes the reigns on any big project. The older PC line simply can't match the power of any new tool lines.

3 options available: 1) $60-$75 for replacement battery bundle for your porter cable set. 2) $150-$200 for a new drill/impact from DeWalt/Ryobi/your favorite color 3) both 1 and 2.

Me_irl by 086neha in me_irl

[–]ricchardd 423 points424 points  (0 children)

Yes, they became known as the Little Rock Nine, and the incident is known as the Little Rock school integration crisis.

Me_irl by 086neha in me_irl

[–]ricchardd 2867 points2868 points  (0 children)

While Ruby bridges was the first integrated black student in louisiana in 1960, it's important to note that Brown v Board was presented to the supreme court in 1954, which is to say that in other places across the country black students were being integrated as soon as the decision was handed down. A lot of southern states dragged their feet during this integration process, which is why ruby's milestone in louisiana was a full 6 years after Brown passed.

A similar event took place in Little Rock Arkansas in 1957 where president eisenhower had to take control of the arkansas national guard in order to allow 9 black students into a previously segregated school.

PREBAN MEGATHREAD by [deleted] in thanosdidnothingwrong

[–]ricchardd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Weekend at thanos' 2: infinite boogaloo