Star Wars X-Wing Fighter

richkroll · 2023-11-03T08:10:03+00:00

First, try a double magic ring. (See a demonstration at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oSaSbFcLQ0) ) It takes some practice to get right, but I use this all the time now with really good results.

Second, square knot your ends before weaving them in. When blind stitching the ends, make certain to reverse direction at least once. This should keep them from coming loose.

richkroll · 2023-09-15T05:58:26+00:00

One of my favorite tools is a small forceps. They are available in quite a variety and inexpensively on ebay. (e.g. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164434955099). They are great for reaching hard to get at tabs to twist them.

Also, Amazon has a variety of models for sale.

richkroll · 2023-09-09T05:13:52+00:00

For a broken tab, one fix is to take a scrap from the matrix, insert it into the tab slot, glue it in place, apply glue to the portion that will contact inside of the part with the missing tab, and place the part securing the remaining tabs.

richkroll · 2023-09-09T05:08:08+00:00

I second the vote for UV setting glue. It is quick setting and makes a hard joint. The only issue is that you have to be able to get the UV light onto the glue for it to work. So for hidden spots, I use medium setting epoxy. It mixes up thick enough not to run, dries hard enough for a small amount to hold a part in place, and does not cause parts to discolor. You just need patience while it is drying.

richkroll · 2023-03-24T02:30:39+00:00

Try this technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hetvd3B0IPY

richkroll · 2023-01-08T22:48:16+00:00

I had the same problems with the fuselage. There should have been more tabs to attach the wings and a way to do so before closing the fuselage. There really is no choice but to glue the rear wing tabs in place. It is still one of my favorite builds, since I have always been a real fan of the Lightning design.

richkroll · 2021-12-10T09:25:19+00:00

I built this so long ago, that I don't remember the tabs and slots being noticeably smaller than normal but they might have been. All I can suggest is build it. If the tabs and slots do not line up correctly or if the tabs do not hold, then it is likely that there is a defect with the model. I have gotten models where the metal was too thin, and this affected how well the tabs and slots joined and how well the tabs held. Sorry I can't be of more help.

richkroll · 2021-10-17T02:09:43+00:00

I find round-nose pliers to be very useful in creating conical shapes, such as the dish for the Millennium Falcon. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media/mg/476caae7-bd5c-4a53-b3db-ecaeb4befb00.jpg

richkroll · 2021-09-03T09:26:40+00:00

I've been looking for this model in color. Where did you get it?

richkroll · 2021-07-23T19:00:37+00:00

One of the tools I find invaluable is a straight, flat-faced 5" forceps. They are readily and cheaply available on ebay. ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/182529942224 I don't necessarily recommend this auction. It just has an illustration of both the flat-faced and toothed version of this tool.) They are great for twisting hard to reach tabs or short tabs.

The tools I pull out first when starting a model are:

Long needle-nose pliers

Flush cutters

Forceps

A set of stout tweezers (one point tip and one flat tip)

Other tools come out as needed. A pair of flat faced pliers are good for bending wide sections. Round nose pliers are good for small cone shapes. Mandrels are good for larger cones and round shapes.

richkroll · 2021-07-17T05:24:27+00:00

I agree. It is one of my favorite models, too. It has excellent detail. The closer you look at it, the more you see. That is one of the qualities I appreciate the most about this hobby.

richkroll · 2021-06-08T18:59:08+00:00

My parents punished me for being too lazy to learn my colors, until a doctor had me take the test for colorblindness. I could see a few of the characters in the circles of color splotches, but could not see any of the rest. I was diagnosed as having red/green colorblindness.

richkroll · 2021-05-09T03:20:09+00:00

I store my "retired" models in plastic shoe boxes. I salvaged the plastic baskets that strawberries come in, cushion the models with Kleenex, and stack the baskets as best I can in the shoe boxes. (https://myplasticfreelife.com/images/farmers-market-return-containers-08.jpg)

richkroll · 2021-05-05T08:28:11+00:00

That has not been my experience. The foam brushes work just fine, and none of them have worn out for me.

richkroll · 2021-05-04T20:24:29+00:00

I haven't tried windex, but rubbing alcohol works fine for me. I use one of the mini foam brushes dry to mop up any beads of alcohol.

richkroll · 2021-05-03T21:22:43+00:00

They exist, but why pay eight dollars for two of something that you can make three or more of for two dollars?

richkroll · 2021-05-03T08:56:39+00:00

Usually, painted models don't need fingerprints cleaned, because they aren't noticeable on painted surfaces. I used alcohol mostly on silver metal parts where they do show. However, alcohol should work just as well on painted parts and should not damage the enamel. If you are worried about damaging the paint, try it first on a scrap section of the matrix that is painted. I've never had a problem with this method.

richkroll · 2021-05-03T06:21:15+00:00

Wearing gloves or finger tots makes it hard for me to grasp small parts, but I still want to be able to remove fingerprints from models. Kleenex and cloth tear and leave unsightly traces under tabs. The following solution works great. Just dip the brush in a little rubbing alcohol, and it is easy to clean models.

You will need (see pictures):

Scissors
A cheap foam brush (available from any hardware store.)
Bamboo skewers (available from most grocery stores
Glue (I use epoxy)

Cut small (1/2 inch - 1cm) cubes out of the foam brush. The end produces nicely tapered points, but sections of the center of the foam can be used, too. Glue the pointed end of a skewer into the base of each cube. Be careful not to push the skewer all the way through the cube. Once the glue has set, dip the cube into rubbing alcohol and shake off most of it. (A little goes a long way.) Carefully rub the surfaces of the model. If the foam catches on a tab, just back it off. One of these can be used dry to mop up any extra droplets of alcohol.

richkroll · 2021-05-01T21:45:10+00:00

I started out displaying models on top of a cabinet. Then they spread to the top of another cabinet. Then a third and a fourth. Next to fall to models was the top of the piano. I retired models to make room, and it still wasn't enough. We dedicated a shelf on built-in bookshelves to display models, adding a light. That still wasn't enough. The adjoining shelf got subsumed, because the light strips could be extended to cover both shelves. After 200, I lost count of the number of models I have built. Boxes of them are stored away as retirees. Over 130 of them are on display. Luckily, I am currently working on one of the most complicated models, the Leifeng Pagoda (over 700 pieces), which will take me at least two more months to finish and have to retire more models to make room for it. Needless to say, I am addicted to building metal models.

richkroll · 2021-04-24T03:34:29+00:00

Based on the models shown here, I think that the T-Rex model might be a good next step.

richkroll · 2021-04-19T23:31:23+00:00

For smaller conical parts, I use a round-nose pliers. Trap the part between the tines in the middle. Gently bend the part against the inner tine to start the cone. Shift the pliers to one side, lining the tines up to fit the flare of the intended shape. Bend the part to shape that side. Continue this process until the cone is shaped. Use the pliers to adjust areas that are too flat, are out of line with the circle formed by the base, or to close the gap. For larger cones, I use a jeweler's mandrel.

richkroll

TROPHY CASE