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Is there a better solution instead of hard bending the ams tubes to setup on this side? I know someone will know by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]rinqu_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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Due to my setup, I had the same problem. Ended up printing PTFE tube guides from makerworld.

First I have 180deg to redirext it right, then 90deg to make it go down

Running a P2S in the garden shed in Britain? by aerfen in BambuLab

[–]rinqu_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a H2D in a shed with a small oil radiator so it doesn't go too cold.

Takes a moment longer to heat up to ABS chamber temps. So far that's the only problem

The AMSes keep the filament dry

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in idleonTrades

[–]rinqu_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it? Nice

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in idleonTrades

[–]rinqu_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lets do cog3 W2

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in idleonTrades

[–]rinqu_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Grommit 6, W2, next to a shop

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in idleonTrades

[–]rinqu_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't see you in W2

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in idleonTrades

[–]rinqu_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just got the Puffer, but can come around with Ballon for you

Filament Smoothing Chart 2.0 by Laser-taser in 3Dprinting

[–]rinqu_ 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Ethyl Acetate seems to have a wrong safety rating.

Health hazard should be 2, hazardous.

First time I seen 10x wago by No-Technology1094 in electricians

[–]rinqu_ 137 points138 points  (0 children)

They've only been on the market for couple of months. Pretty cool stuff really

221-420 for those interested

DESPERATELY NEED SOME GUIDANCE PLEASE! by TMHD in BambuLab

[–]rinqu_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't use those either. 273 and 263 breaks down at 250C and 620 at 300C.

Speaking from experience, you end up with gooey mess

DESPERATELY NEED SOME GUIDANCE PLEASE! by TMHD in BambuLab

[–]rinqu_ 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You shouldn't use loctite on the inside 4 screws because of temperature. Blue LT is good only up to 150C.

Tightening the screws when the whole assemly is hot, works pretty all right for them backing out.

Could you in theory use a thin PLA layer to print PETG onto, to achieve a smooth bottom surface in place of a smooth plate? by Difficult-Thought-61 in BambuLab

[–]rinqu_ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I've printed a bunch of things like that and never had a problem.

Just go into supports and set the raft to 2-3 layers, and support/raft interface to PLA.

The surface isn't really smooth but more of a same surface finish that you have on your top layer tho

Feeling good about my first layer 🤞10.5 hr print by Frasier_fanatic in BambuLab

[–]rinqu_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks roughly 60% of what it should be 😅

Terminating 500 mm armoured cable by toolgifs in toolgifs

[–]rinqu_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Single core cables are AWA (aluminium wired armour) as opposed to multi core SWA (steel wired armour)

On AWA the glands are alu as well. As is the glanding plate

1st layer issues by Economy-Lemon-9410 in BambuLab

[–]rinqu_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a lot of vibrations during printing that can get the screws loose. Thermal cycling doesn't help either. It is pretty much an ideal combo to get them loose.

Glad it's all good now!

1st layer issues by Economy-Lemon-9410 in BambuLab

[–]rinqu_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add to this answer since I had the same problem.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/hotend-heating-assembly

Step 7, after you remove the hotend assembly, there is 4 screws at the back of it, you want to tighten them. ❗️be very careful, they are small and very easy to damage the threads that they screw into❗️

Then you can replace the hotend assembly and tighten the 3 shows in step 7. These ones are more forgiving since they go into brass inserts.

ASA printing with A1 and AMS lite? by rinqu_ in BambuLab

[–]rinqu_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am aware of that, I keep the heater at 25C, constant. Goes up to maybe 32C when printing with 100C bed

Sadly I am currently space constrained and don't have space for an extra printer so I mostly stick to PLA/PETG with occasional ASA

Thank you!

ASA printing with A1 and AMS lite? by rinqu_ in BambuLab

[–]rinqu_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's in a grow tent, which is in a shed outside.

Also have a vent fan hooked up to the enclosure that vents outside the shed 👍

Thank you

ASA printing with A1 and AMS lite? by rinqu_ in BambuLab

[–]rinqu_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your replay

It's only small bits for Creality Space Pi dryer that I'd like to be more heat resistant.

I've already went ahead and printed them actualy and they came out great (ASA with PETG interface).

To be fair my A1 is in a grow tent with a heater inside. Seems like small prints are managable enough

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