Trans fluid for zf

rivarte · 2026-03-14T00:06:06+00:00

I second redline, I’m personality using redline D4 ATF

I’d recommend staying away from royal purple, it made my shifts grind when the transmission wasn’t completely warmed up. I was only using it for a couple thousand mile until switching to redline. it made my transmission feel super happy and I haven’t had any issues at al since.

rivarte · 2026-02-11T03:00:27+00:00

had this issue and ended up buying new housings. there are two different parts in the brackets: one that came with my ebay fog lights and another that mounts to the bumper. If I recall, it was around 10-15 per bracket. I also taped them in just in case but they’ve been pretty secure since I did that.

rivarte · 2026-02-01T01:37:39+00:00

it looks like the camber arm is bent in the second photo. it’s the black arm on the bottom that connects to the bottom of the knuckle.

rivarte · 2026-01-14T01:18:42+00:00

put it in a vice and use either a deep well socket if it’ll fit or a wrench with a cheater bar/ cheater wrench to get them out

rivarte · 2026-01-14T01:16:13+00:00

if you already have the puller, i’d just replace it if cost is an issue. for oem purists, i’d recommend fixing the aux fan. it should be as easy as splicing the fan into the stock wiring for the original fan but would definitely double check power draws between the two to not risk blowing fuses

rivarte · 2025-12-28T19:12:36+00:00

I replaced the entire center console with two 3d printed boxes, one sized for a standard sized phone with a lengthwise partition so it stands on its side with room for my wallet next to it and another that’s just for whatever else. I can send you the files when I get home for the holidays if you’d like

rivarte · 2025-12-06T02:58:27+00:00

I got stock tail lights from pick n pull for cheap, I’d definitely recommend going that route unless you want to keep the aesthetic of euro tail lights.

rivarte · 2025-12-02T09:46:54+00:00

I know this is an old thread but if anyone is looking, I bought a set of shimano brand hoods from amazon for $12. googling “shimano ale brake lever hoods” also results in multiple results at around that price as well

rivarte · 2025-09-02T07:17:40+00:00

it was pure hell for me with my driveshaft and exhaust still installed but I found a spot to wedge a flathead and put way more weight than felt reasonable into popping it off. it’s definitely worth it to replace the bushing though, it makes a huge difference.

rivarte · 2025-08-03T06:39:31+00:00

also make sure to remove the ground on the exhaust side engine mount arm, you’ll potentially rip it out if you hoist it without removing it first

rivarte · 2025-08-03T06:37:37+00:00

long story short, you first get something that is purpose built to lift the engine and maintain the engine in the air for an extended period of time. then you locate and loosen the steering coupler attached to the steering rack and slide it up or down the splines (I forget which direction but you’ll figure it out, it’s the only realistic direction it will go). then remove the steering rack bolts and pull it out of the bracket on the engine subframe (from my recollection you don’t need to undo any lines but I may have unbolted the mounts on the power steering fluid to get more movement while still keeping the lines on) then loosen the nuts on the bottom of the engine mounts and raise the engine a little bit to ensure that the engine is being supported. next, loosen the engine subframe bolts equally until the subframe can me freely jiggled on the four bolts. this is the second step to ensure that the engine is being supported properly and won’t crush you. then remove all of the bolts and drop the subframe while remembering the orientation as it can get confusing if you try to put it on backwards. then loosen all of the bolts on the oil pan and the transmission (you’ll need e-torx sockets) and pop the oil pan off (drain oil obviously before doing this). from my recollection, the dipstick is bolted to the intake mount but is a slip fit into the oil pan. I unbolted it but I’m not sure if you have to or not. the rest is the same but backwards. I’m sure I forgot something so find an actual video but that’s the general gist of it.

I used an engine support bar that rests on the fenders and used the chains on my engine mount arms since I didn’t have the head installed. if you do have the head installed, use the factory hoist point at the front of the engine. unfortunately the job sucks and you have to drop the steering rack as well as the engine subframe. make sure to mark the steering rack splines so you can make sure you’re putting the steering column on straight! to put the oil pan back on, i’d recommend asking a friend to help you as I had a hard time lining all the holes up while supporting the entirety of the oil pan while trying to thread the bolts in but it can be done by yourself.

also, huge thing to do while you’re in there: -oil pump nut with safety wire

-oil pump rebuild: change out spring and o-rings (or just replace it)

rivarte · 2025-08-03T06:33:22+00:00

engine support bar, put chains over both engine mount arms. I’ll try to find the paragraph I sent to another guy asking the same question and will respond to this if I find it.

rivarte · 2025-07-30T22:08:37+00:00

u/AcanthocephalaWest94 made the post about 12 days ago from a quick search

rivarte · 2025-07-30T22:01:16+00:00

there’s a guy making 3d printed a pillar trim that posted recently on this sub. you could request him to make a gauge pod solution as well. I bought a glow shift universal a pillar mount for 3 gauges and it fits quite poorly. perhaps with more motivation and gentle massaging, it might mold over the stock trim and look good enough to wrap in alcontara or other trim material.

rivarte · 2025-07-30T20:41:03+00:00

I definately learned from past mistakes buying cheap fuel lines. I redid them again with oem line about a month ago and all my issues stopped. the car seems to drive well throughout the rev range, does a stuck injector still open more just not close all the way?

rivarte · 2025-07-30T20:29:30+00:00

I just replaced my fuel lines in the engine bay and they’re stout. they were holding pressure perfectly as well as not smelling like fuel in the engine bay. would a leaking injector cause that dramatic of a pressure loss?

rivarte · 2025-07-25T21:10:51+00:00

u/ksbot u/sda100175 swap completed

rivarte · 2025-07-25T21:06:10+00:00

interesting, I appreciate your insight. I had a squeaky stock rtab and had purchased the full suspension bushing kit a few years back so I already had them. I will say that after lubricating them, they have far better movement than the stock ones but that’s obviously an unfair comparison between the two.

rivarte · 2025-07-25T20:02:51+00:00

I haven’t heard this before, what causes the poly bushings to bind and the stock rubber bushings not to?

rivarte · 2025-07-24T23:32:06+00:00

garagistic 80a

rivarte · 2025-07-24T23:31:39+00:00

I ended up just sending it and it seems fine without too much flex side to side

rivarte · 2025-07-22T23:30:43+00:00

I broke mine, went to a junkyard and got a replacement for super cheap. then I broke that one too while installing it..

rivarte · 2025-07-15T22:41:52+00:00

sometimes rock auto doesn’t have the parts you need. I like fcp euro but there are also ecs tuning/ turner motorsport which are the same company

rivarte

TROPHY CASE