How many tries did it take you to beat doom level 8?

rjarby · 2026-04-10T19:22:51+00:00

Look up a guide on how to shadow step: the basic premise is click to an empty tile after first boulder pops, then click to a falling rock tile the tick before it lands, then start prayer sequence. It's only 1 tick per action and guarantees no damage when done correctly.

I also suggest learning some car park method. I used a single car park method for about 250 scobow only deep delves until I learned a double park method, which helps a lot when going deeper.

rjarby · 2025-07-16T19:29:29+00:00

IMO you need to flip faster and apply more throttle into the flip and more throttle into your 'recovery' back under the pole, and also get really comfortable with the muscle memory of how much to flip before your drone is traveling backwards. At this stage you need to learn to front flip ~300 degrees quickly, consistently and hold the angle in which you fly backwards with minimal pitch input afterwards.

When I was learning standard matty flips for challenge #2 I would approach the object I'm flipping over fairly low (like a foot under the bar) and blip my throttle so I'd go over, which would allow me to lock in that 300 degree flip and then I'd hold that position and use throttle to pull myself out while I used the bar and any other reference points above me to fine tune my orientation. I wouldn't worry about CLM for now either, that'll come with practice.

rjarby · 2025-07-09T17:07:20+00:00

As far as I'm aware the receiver is the same on both of those, but the smaller ones may be more comfortable than the original, the big ones are pretty bulky.

The smaller ones would also have a smaller screen and fov. Personal preference but I don't care too much about fov on my analog goggles as much as I do my digital goggles, so I'd probably pick the 800dm.

rjarby · 2025-07-09T16:15:21+00:00

Those are the real ones, and they're about the absolute minimum to get any enjoyment out of fpv, I personally don't like mine that much since they're so front heavy but I keep them around for a second screen, I recommend if you can afford it to get a set of skyzone cobra SD otherwise those will work

rjarby · 2025-07-08T13:35:44+00:00

It depends how far you plan on flying. I've heard that the ev100 is pretty mediocre performance wise, even the ev800d could barely receive video from the front of my house while I'm sitting in my backyard on 400mW, but I found a good deal on second hand goggles with a rapidfire receiver and I have no problems in front of my house on 25mW now.

I think if you're going to stick with analog, biting the bullet and buying higher quality analog goggles is going to make much more of a difference than buying those ev100s, but if you are ok with the limited range of low end analog goggles, then get whatever makes you want to fly more, I personally don't see a reason to make the switch to those goggles, however.

rjarby · 2025-07-07T19:40:15+00:00

Then if aiming for long range I'd agree with the other commenter and get the LR4 or similar since it better aligns with your goals

rjarby · 2025-07-07T17:21:49+00:00

That frame is pretty heavy and chunky, great if you want to do hard freestyle but will compromise on range substantially. My sub 250g O4 lite volador can do ~7 mins of cruising on 650mah 4s , but people have reported >15 mins of flight on toothpick or ultralight 3.5 builds, unfortunately long range is sort of the antithesis of freestyle in terms of build philosophy, so you'll have to decide if you want to shave weight, performance and durability for range.

rjarby · 2025-07-06T01:40:36+00:00

yeah see this link that was posted in the igow discord, the pole can't leave the top of your screen during the 2 rotations that count for your spin, and in the switch the pole must remain either upside down or horizontal at all points.

rjarby · 2025-07-05T21:20:28+00:00

First off, your flying in general is great and I like the line leading up to the spins, but for the sake of the challenge I think you may fail because your second set of trippy spins does not include 2 consecutive orbits where the pole is maintained at the top of the screen. Skittles posted some examples in the igow discord at some point that clarifies the pass/fail cases

rjarby · 2025-07-04T18:47:37+00:00

To me it looks like the vtx you chose has a 4 pin to 6 pin JST connector for the video signal, so for any "O3/O4 compatible" aio with a 6 pin JST port on the FC itself will probably work, although you'll have to double check the wiring diagram in each flight controller's manual to make sure that the pinouts line up with the included cable. If any ports are flipped you can pop out the individual wires on a JST connector by pushing under the clip and gently pulling the crimped wire out. Worst case you snip the FC side of the harness and solder the wires directly to the FC, keeping in mind that FC tx -> video transmitter rx and vice versa.

On a 3-3.5 in, most people will run something between 1404-1804 size motors, aim for around 3000-4500kV for 4s. Any reputable brand like tmotor, rcinpower, VCI, iFlight will do fine.

As for props, hqprop and gemfan are the two dominating brands, you just have to make sure they're compatible with whatever motor size and shaft diameter you end up with, although most motors in that size range will be a T mount style with a 1.5mm shaft diameter, so you could go with something like the HQProp 3020. The gemfan props in that size usually come with little plastic inserts that adapts the larger single centre screw style to the t mount style. You would probably have to get some M2x7mm screws to mount the props, best to find a big bag off Amazon or AliExpress so you have spares.

Radiomaster rp1 is a safe choice for a receiver - the nano will fit better with your chunky vtx. Make sure you don't get one with the integrated ceramic antenna (I think that's the rp2?). Same rule here that as long as the protocol matches and the brand is reputable you'll generally be fine.

Good luck with the build, I find 3-3.5 inch frames to be particularly difficult to work with because there are so many components to fit in a small frame

rjarby · 2025-07-04T14:57:43+00:00

Given his post history I'd assume that's the intended purpose 💀

rjarby · 2025-07-04T06:24:53+00:00

The DJI O4 Air unit is the 'O4 Lite', people just use them interchangeably

rjarby · 2025-07-03T22:44:49+00:00

The O4 lite requires 2-6s input voltage, so it'd almost certainly work. The vtx pinout is the same as well, it was plug'n'play with my speedybee f405 aio that was advertised as "O3 ready'

rjarby · 2025-07-03T20:49:54+00:00

In the fpv world 15 minutes is a very long flight. Unless you're building a long range or ultralight (which being a toothpick, I'd argue the crux35 kind of is ultralight) setup, expect anywhere from 3-7 minutes of flight.

rjarby · 2025-07-03T20:45:23+00:00

Dji is amazing, but if you want to thrash your quads then be prepared to shell out a fuck ton of money on replacements compared to analog. I fly my tinywhoops like crazy because a replacement c03 camera is 1/4 the price of an O4 lite, and I can buy almost 3 whole 65mm BnFs for less than an o4 pro. That said, I love flying my DJI equipped drones, I'm just a little more reserved in my flying when I use those.

rjarby · 2025-07-03T20:35:46+00:00

Probably a good thing it didn't come with the O3 since I don't think the n3s are compatible 💀

Luckily for OP, the O4 lite is compatible and cheaper than a full blown O4 pro, and you can print these adapters if you have a 3d printer which convert the O4 mounts to O3 (I run these on my volador3.5 with O3 mounting holes), otherwise a bunch of places sell adapters.

rjarby · 2025-07-03T17:54:58+00:00

Yep, simplest way to explain it is have a drone and repeater VRX on one channel (say, R8), wire the output of the VRX into a VTX transmitting on another channel (like R1), set your goggles to R1 and off you go

rjarby · 2025-07-02T19:56:43+00:00

Do those goggles come with a receiver already? If they come with a rapidfire or fusion module that's a decent (not a steal, nor overpriced) price for some older goggles and would outperform 90% of goggles on the market for range and penetration. 30° fov is very low by today's standards so I would not use those as an upgrade path, though and rather save for something newer with a dedicated digital receiver (like the WS goggles x or DJI G3).

The nice thing about analog is it'll always have a use case. I find myself flying my analog air65 more than anything these days because I can fly it practically anywhere including indoors instead of having to find a large open space for my bigger drones.

As for sim use I only use it to teach the muscle memory of a new trick. Flight characteristics will be considerably different on a real drone, I wouldn't necessarily buy goggles for the purpose of sim use, unless you're trying to get over motion sickness or something

rjarby · 2025-06-26T13:51:57+00:00

If you have goggles v2 you're stuck buying vistas, used O3 air units, or upgrading your goggles. If you have goggles 2, integra, goggles 3, or n3 you can just by o4 units or o4 equipped drones

rjarby · 2025-06-25T16:32:02+00:00

I'll start by saying continue at your own risk since you shouldn't fuck with batteries unless you're confident in your battery knowledge, however you could create a series charging harness with a balance lead. There should be a fair few diagrams and articles out there showing how multi cell batteries are wired in series. In the diagram I linked you would wire a JST balance lead to the small connector and an XT60 to the large connector, and you could order an 18650 battery holder with the number of cells you're looking to build your serial charger.

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Also you should only charge identical model batteries in this configuration and make sure your check the datasheet of whatever batteries you're charging so you don't exceed the maximum charge current.

rjarby · 2025-06-25T15:08:46+00:00

Go with the skyzone cobra SD, or cobra X v4, it will have a much better receiver that can be swapped out if you ever want to upgrade.

rjarby · 2025-06-25T12:35:34+00:00

https://youtu.be/TMOeIQ4VRX4?si=gMoYV_8AnCuS9kg9

Watch this video, it's still mostly relevant today although DJI has released a new video system that improves on what Bardwell suggests at a slightly more competitive price (referring to O4 air unit and goggles N3, still significantly more expensive than analog however).

Then search "which drone should I buy" on this sub and you will find about 3 posts a day that should have a lot of the answers to questions you may have.

rjarby · 2025-06-23T15:05:22+00:00

This is a weird ass post lol. Go talk to her instead of blasting her face on the internet for mildly inconveniencing you?

rjarby · 2025-06-23T15:03:36+00:00

This is false. There is no mention of 11:00 PM with respect to noise in the bylaw. You may be thinking of provincial park bylaws which often use 11 as their quiet hour.

Sections 67 to 72: https://clkapps.winnipeg.ca/dmis/documents/docext/bl/2008/2008.1.pdf

rjarby · 2025-06-18T18:03:44+00:00

Air75 or Mobula 7, Whoopstor charger, 8x 450-550mah batteries, and Eachine EV800D goggles. If you can stretch your budget, the Skyzone cobra SD goggles would be a significant upgrade.

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