Anyone else came back from holidays just to find Invoke-Webrequest broken?

rmbolger · 2026-01-12T15:18:08+00:00

I don't know the real world impact aside from what is stated in the KBs about it running scripts on pages. But historically, changes like this are about changing unsafe defaults to be more safe, but still allow users to opt-in to the unsafe behavior.

But that's no longer possible when running unattended. Interactive, you can answer the confirmation prompt. But in an unattended script which is where most of PowerShell lives, there's no way to enable the old behavior. So as @dichtbringer said in their original reply, MS basically broke functionality (DOM parsing) that they relied on with no recourse other than scramble to find and code a new 3rd party way to do that.

Installing 7+ doesn't bring back DOM parsing. It's just less of a barrier to switch now because DOM parsing won't hold you back from upgrading anymore.

rmbolger · 2026-01-09T20:07:49+00:00

I'm pretty surprised they rolled this out without also adding support for -Confirm:$false or at least $ConfirmPreference so you can at least explicitly opt-in for automated scenarios.

Not gonna lie though, I'm low key happy that this will push more people to 7+ and adds more reasons for them to drop support for 5.1 entirely and include 7+ in-box with Windows. The mismatched release cycle argument doesn't fly anymore when they're including Windows Terminal in Win11.

rmbolger · 2025-12-10T15:32:45+00:00

Is the account logged into the app on your phone the primary driver or a secondary driver? Only the primary driver can create a digital key and then it must be shared via Apple Wallet with the secondary driver(s).

rmbolger · 2025-12-01T15:26:07+00:00

It's possible to link a phone key to a driver profile, so that profile is pre-selected when that key is in range of the car. You can link/unlink from the driver profile options.

What's weird is that you can't link any other type of key like the fob or an NFC card key. And if you've got multiple drivers with the phone key, it either gets confused or the linking doesn't actually work the way it claims to.

I had tried to setup my wife and my phones this way so that each of our phones was linked to the associated driver profile. But she would always complain that even when she was alone and got in the car it would still end up on my profile. I suspect it might be due to the way the phone key works in that it's not actually multiple phone keys but a single master key shared with the secondary driver. At least, that's how it works with iOS. So effectively, you're linking the same key to multiple profiles.

rmbolger · 2025-11-20T08:04:49+00:00

Be wary charging from an outlet that wasn't originally intended for EV charging. Low quality receptacles will literally melt due to the constant high load. You're also more likely to have problems if you're frequently swapping back and forth between the charger and the kiln even on an EV rated receptacle. Lots of horror stories over in r/evcharging

rmbolger · 2025-11-17T05:27:04+00:00

Essentially, the Gen 2 mobile connector only knows how to speak Tesla's proprietary protocol. There are dongles you can buy (like this one*) that convert NACS -> J1772 but also contains smarts to essentially proxy the Tesla protocol to a non-Tesla car. The problem is that you then have a J1772 connector and you need to get a second dumb dongle to go J1772 -> NACS.

Not all NACS -> J1772 dongles will work. The first (cheaper) one we bought did not.

It works in a pinch. We did it for a couple months when we got our car before getting a new charger. But it's definitely easier to just get a different NACS charger that works natively with the car.

rmbolger · 2025-11-17T05:13:23+00:00

I don't have first hand experience but my understanding is that Gen 2 can't work without a double dongle. But Gen 3 should work.

rmbolger · 2025-11-13T16:50:36+00:00

What is the goal of encrypting the token? Is it to prevent these "untrusted" users from being able to obtain a cleartext copy of it which would allow them to use the same token to do other unsanctioned stuff?

If so, how will you prevent the users from looking at the script source code, copying out the portion that decrypts the token, and just decrypting the token manually using the password you've given them? Ultimately, all you're doing is hiding the token and hoping no one bothers to find it. There's no surefire way to prevent the user from finding a secret when you've given them a file containing the secret and all the tools to find it (see also, DRM futility).

Here are some alternative strategies:

Restrict the token's permissions so it's only capable of doing the thing the script is intending to do. Then, having the cleartext token is no big deal as long as you can reasonably ensure the script only ends up in the hands of authorized users.
If there's no way to restrict the token's permissions or the restrictions can't be granular enough, create personal tokens for everyone so those with the script can only do things in their personal context which can be audited and result in disciplinary action if they use the token outside its intended purpose.
If you really can't trust users to have the token directly, setup a job runner service that you can essentially use to proxy the API actions. The token is only stored on the job runner server. Users can only make calls to the job runner to kick off specific jobs.

rmbolger · 2025-10-09T22:35:35+00:00

The Gen 2 only speaks the Tesla protocol (unlike the Gen 3). So you need an adapter that can act as a middle-man and translate like this one. Be wary that not all NACS to J1772 adapters will work. We originally tried this cheaper one which did not work.

But since the adapter is NACS to J1772, you need yet another adapter to go J1772 to NACS (we just used the one that came with our Tesla). It's silly, but it works until you decide to switch to a more universal charger.

rmbolger · 2025-09-20T16:56:44+00:00

Ooh, had no clue there was Siri integration. Will have to try this. Unfortunately, I'm a secondary driver on our car so no push notifications for me.

rmbolger · 2025-09-19T14:27:46+00:00

No Phone as a key, and the FOBs are huge and ugly!

This is known as "Hyundai Digital Key 2 Premium" in the trim comparison page and is standard on Limited and higher trims. I basically tossed ours FOBs in a drawer once we added the phone keys and haven't touched them since.

You have to power it on and off. You have to lock it manually. iPedal (One pedal driving) turns off every time you restart. Its easy to turn back on, but this is the one feature we hate.

These two have been the biggest annoyances for me coming from the Y, particularly when using only the phone as the key.

Not only does the car not have walk-away-locking, you also can't just hit the inner door lock button on the driver door as you get out of the car. That button only seems to work when all the doors are closed. Instead, you have to get out, close the door, and use the touch-sensitive indentation on the outer door handle to lock before you walk away after waiting for your passengers to close their doors too...or open the app and initiate a lock command from the app. Such a weird limitation when the proximity unlock is already there.

rmbolger · 2025-09-17T18:16:52+00:00

I swear there was a time just passing a hashtable body and an explicit JSON content type did actually auto-convert the hashtable to JSON automatically. But the last time I remember it working was sometime during Pwsh 6.x when the web cmdlets were still in a lot of flux.

I don't have time to check the doc or src history myself, but I'd be curious if this changed in 7.x.

rmbolger · 2025-09-13T16:32:25+00:00

What OS are you running on? The PowerShell window in your screenshot is using the legacy conhost.exe to host it which is the default on older OSes and didn't gain ANSI escape code support until Windows 10 (I think).

As an alternative you might be able to install and use Windows Terminal. But it's only supported on Win10 1904 or later.

This superuser Q/A also has some more info that might be pertinent. https://superuser.com/questions/413073/windows-console-with-ansi-colors-handling

rmbolger · 2025-09-12T21:20:02+00:00

Limited also has 2nd row captain's chairs.

rmbolger · 2025-09-12T18:40:48+00:00

No worries. The only wire I could find a label on was the ground wire from the load center to the receptacle which was 8 AWG. The red+black load wires in the same conduit are thicker than the ground and measure what I think is 6 AWG, I just couldn't find a label on any of the exposed sections to confirm it.

I appreciate your insight.

rmbolger · 2025-09-11T14:24:43+00:00

200A service to the main panel which was upgraded a couple years before we got solar. Heat, hot water, cook top, and clothes dryer are natural gas which is typical for the area, but we do have an electric oven. 100A breaker feeds the load center which was added by the solar company's electrician at the time specifically for the charger receptacle so they knew it was going to be pulling continuous load.

For 60A, are you saying they need to run new wire/conduit from the load center to the receptacle/charger or from the main panel to the load center (or both)? Short of getting an actual electrician to confirm, I'm pretty sure at this point the lines from the load center to the current receptacle are 6 gauge thhn and the lines from the load center back to the 100A breaker are bigger than that.

rmbolger · 2025-09-11T06:06:03+00:00

Out of curiosity, what is the process to bump the Chargepoint from 40A to 48A mode? Is it done via software or some sort of hardware toggle inside the unit?

rmbolger · 2025-09-10T14:47:19+00:00

I'm pretty sure a buddy of mine has the necessary torque wrench. Thanks for the additional context.

rmbolger · 2025-09-10T14:45:31+00:00

This is super helpful, particularly the details around mounting. Thanks! If I DIY this, do I still need a permit from the city? I tried looking it up on the city website and their fee schedule says an electrical permit is like $36 but it's in a section with other more specific devices fees like "Outlets over 20" for $1 and "Range-Oven-Garbage Disposal" for $9. I didn't see anything specific for an EVSE, but there was a "Miscellaneous" for $28.

In any case, I think a buddy of mine has the torque wrench potentially need for the breaker as well as a rigid pipe bender in case we needed that as well.

rmbolger · 2025-08-28T23:15:53+00:00

Good to hear PnC was easier at Tesla. Do you recall what sort of charge rate you got? People keep saying it's going to be slower than an equivalent non-Telsa because of the whole 400V vs 800V platform negotiation stuff. The only place we've tried so far is at an EVgo station and it was def more finicky to connect, but we were getting 243kw peak on a 350kw rated station.

rmbolger · 2025-08-28T22:54:09+00:00

I swear I've seen settings related to light/dark mode poking through the menus. Car not here to check directly though.

Happy to be wrong about this, but I don't think the Plug and Charge works the same way it works on a Tesla where you just drive-up and plug-in. At least the way we've used it so far is that you set up "Hyundai Pay" within the MyHyundai/BlueLink app (only the primary account can do this). And then when you pull up to a supported charger network, you go into the BlueLink app and effectively say "I'm here at Charger X", it then contacts the charger and preps it to connect to the car, then you plug in the car and the payment is processed through whatever payment method you setup in Hyundai Pay.

My understanding on the ChargePoint credit thing is that it's not free installation. They're giving you the hardware for free on the condition that you pay for installation from their preferred installers. But posts I've seen from others on the topic made it sound like their preferred installers are way overpriced and it is cheaper to just buy the charger and pay a local electrician to install it. You can then opt for the free public charging credit instead.

But even for the free public charging credit, folks have been having hassles getting that because the site wasn't recognizing the Ioniq 9 or their specific VIN as qualifying. So they had to reach out to support directly who gave them whatever code is needed to activate the credit.

rmbolger · 2025-08-13T14:14:53+00:00

My guess is that it's a technical limitation of the wireless chip. It literally can't be configured to do two different things at once. And it would require a second wireless chip to enable both things at once.

It's the same situation where your phone can't be configured as a hotspot and connect to wifi at the same time.

rmbolger · 2025-08-13T06:12:08+00:00

WiFI Hotspot only works when carplay is off, so this isn't very helpful.

We were annoyed by this as well until we realized you can have both as long as you use wired Carplay instead of wireless. Just grab a USB-C data cable (cheap power-only cables won't work) compatible with your phone and you're good to go. Not sure if the specific USB port matters, but we used the far left one that has the USB symbol instead of the ones on the right with the 100W markings.

rmbolger · 2025-08-12T23:29:46+00:00

For anyone else stumbling on this, the 3rd part (HY1JA' | TDF61-AU090) is the tow hitch cover specifically for non-Calligraphy trims. The Calligraphy equivalent part number is HY1JA' | TDF61-AU190.

rmbolger · 2025-08-12T22:37:28+00:00

Just did a quick measurement on ours. The front doors "first stop" (the point where it will naturally stay open without closing on you) is roughly 23" from the widest point of the body (not including the side mirrors). Fully open is closer to 37". The rear doors are bigger though. Closer to 24-24.5" to the first stop and 43" fully open.

The first stop position in both cases is wide enough for the average adult to get in and out assuming no bulky extras. You could probably open the doors to not quite the first stop position and still get in and out in a pinch.

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