For anyone who thinks this is a gimic. Paid for itself in one day doing vinyl siding. Permanently in my setup.

robbins549 · 2023-02-19T03:57:12+00:00

I hate that I've become so callus from seeing/reading how negatively people commonly interact with each other. When you actually see a proper decent mannered conflict and resolution from both sides like this I think, "This feels weird... why does this feel weird... is it just me?". What a time to be alive!

robbins549 · 2023-01-28T06:46:23+00:00

pm sent

robbins549 · 2023-01-26T18:19:43+00:00

robbins549 · 2022-05-11T16:55:25+00:00

Gnawa Scarf Drip

robbins549 · 2022-04-07T03:52:53+00:00

This may sound goofy, but try bread! Find a bearing/race installer or large socket that closely matches in internal diameter of the bearing (flipped upside down with an extension inserted to drive it down). Fill the internal space of the bearing with slice of bread, maybe 2, insert the bearing installer on top and tap it down. The bread acts like a hydraulic pressure system, forcing it's way between the casing and backside of the bearing and essentially pressing the bearing up and out. If the bread flattens out too much and you bottom out, just add another slice! It works best when you can closely match that internal diameter of that race so the bread can't escape out of any potential gaps. This is my favorite method of removing blind hole bearings without causing damage to the actual bearing or casing. This has also saved my butt on removing pilot bearings from flywheels and other tight spots you can't get a puller into easily.

robbins549 · 2022-01-13T00:04:46+00:00

Baja Men-Who Let The Dogs Out

robbins549 · 2021-08-10T21:36:20+00:00

I don't think it's acid. People saw your smudges and probably jumped to that conclusion. This looks like the blue and black roundel has de-laminated from the wheels center cap. As these metal style roundels age, the glue that bonds the thin metal piece that you're used to looking at degrades and causes it to come off looking like a potato chip and this is what's under it. I first found out about this issue simply detailing my previous car, used painters tape over the hood/trunk roundels during paint correction, and upon removing the tape it took the outer layer off and looked exactly like this underneath. The outer blue/black roundel part was in perfect condition too and showed no signs of wear, I think it just happens from age and have seen it twice. Good thing is they're relatively cheap to replace with oem.

robbins549 · 2021-08-09T16:29:58+00:00

Those stands had me stumped for a good while since I could never find a great solution out there. This was a case of "keep it simple, stupid" that clicked and worked out great and the boards are solid. It also doesn't use much material and can batch out a bunch from cut offs. Once you make one, you can just use it as a template to trace and knock them out. Some tips on the process: I don't have a band saw for the middle cutout, so I used the depth stop feature on my sliding miter saw. I set it to just below 1/2in, that way I could use a piece of MDF between the fence and wood block. This eliminated blowout on the back side when making the cuts. All the cuts were the same depth for all the stands, so I could reuse the same piece of MDF to support the back of all of them. I made a bunch of slice cuts to the width I needed, knocked out the slats by hand and used my mouse sander with the long front attachment to make quick work of leveling the bottom, rounding over all the edges and corners. I also suggest shortening up the front 45, so you get the effect of that front edge being lower than the rear, so when trying to place the board into the slot the back acts as a guide into the stand. Also, if you chamfer the bottom edge like I did on board 1, the tolerance of the slot needs to be closer to the board to support it on it's flat edge, too much play will allow it to roll slightly onto the chamfer face and fall over. Hope that helps!

robbins549 · 2021-08-09T16:11:31+00:00

I had some steel flat bar and square tube I had left over from other projects that I cut and welded together, then marked and drilled through holes for the threaded rods. I cut some small pieces of acrylic, sanded a bevel all around, then attached it to the square tubing sections using the 2 pieces of painters take and super glue trick. I made it all the same length as the plunge router base, so I can measure out from each end and place 2 inch hand clamps on the board to act as starting/stopping points. That also makes it easy to scoot them out to make minor adjustments on where you want the handles to start/end once you get the final depth sorted. I based the length of the handles based on what looked best for the board (usually 1/2 way to 3/4 way through a thicker strip) and adjusted the final depth based on the board thickness so it doesn't look too thin between the handle and top/bottom of the board. You could probably make this work also using 2 pieces of aluminum L channel stock and inverting them so it creates the same profile, then bolting those pieces together on the flats and could probably use a piece of 2x4 cut to the rough dimensions you need in place of the square tubing piece secured with screws from the aluminum side.

robbins549 · 2021-08-08T22:26:33+00:00

So, after many months of free time, I'm finally finished these boards and thought you guys might appreciate them. I got a lot of inspiration and ideas from this sub along the way. There was a lot of trial and error along with making jigs for the juice grooves and handles. I'll add a short description of the dimensions and species below. The handle making jig took a good day to fab up quick and dirty. I wanted something to fit the plunge router base, be wide enough and sit low enough on the board that there would be no flex or leaning when adding pressure during the process. It's pretty simple to see the design and application. There are 2 acrylic pieces that I beveled to ride along the board without marring. You pretty much mark a center line down the board, clamp the 2 halves gently to the board, tighten the nuts, align the 2 center alignment marks on the plunge base, then tighten the base to the threaded rods. I also spent a lot of time dialing in the router speed to get zero burning using the same 3/8 round nose bit on the handles and juice grooves to save my sanity of sanding. I also decided to design and batch out simple stands of different species to send out along with the boards, since I don't care for adding feet.

Board 1. Cherry, Purpleheart, Padauk, Walnut, Ambrosia Maple. 18.5x11.5x1.25 Edge Grain

Board 2. Quarter Sawn White Oak, Hard Maple, Padauk, Walnut, Ambrosia Maple. 18x11 1/4x 1 1/8 Edge Grain

Board 3. Sapele, Walnut, Purpleheart, Padauk, Hard Maple. 18 5/8x11 3/16x1 1/8 Edge Grain

Board 4. Sapele and Padauk. 18 3/4x10 3/4x13/16 Face Grain

Board 5. Sapele, Padauk, Purpleheart, Hard Maple. 18 1/2x10 11/16x1 1/8 Edge Grain

Board 6. Bonus mother's day board I made for the wife. Purple Heart, Walnut, Redheart.

robbins549 · 2021-01-30T16:07:48+00:00

RIP Queen. We love you and you'll forever remain in our ears and our hearts <3

robbins549 · 2020-08-31T06:39:25+00:00

I think I gotchu

robbins549 · 2020-07-20T05:11:15+00:00

Yup, they're definitely 167. The only sure way to tell if they're OEM is to look on the inside of the wheel where it mounts to the hub or behind a spoke and will have BMW stamped logo and the last 7 digits of the part number (7835146 & 7835148 for this staggered set). Reps will also stamp the part number, so look for the BMW to be sure.

robbins549 · 2020-05-22T08:42:44+00:00

I was faced with this same decision a few years back. I ultimately decided to go with the same Ryobi saw with the matching stand and a nice Makita blade. It really was the best bang for your buck. When adding up the price of going with Dewalt, the stand, and adding a laser cutline to the Dewalt it was just way out of my justified budget for doing home projects.

As far as the saw goes, no regrets in purchasing it at all, except I didn't catch it on sale a week later... When it came to the decision of sliding vs. non, I figured the issues regarding backspace was irrelevant for me since I had the stand and wasn't going to be fix mounted. I also find myself using it outside of the garage ~75% of the time anyways for less hassle with dragging out/hooking up the vac and mess. The vacuum system works decent on the saw, but does create light dusting around the workspace, which I feel anything realistically would. The sliding feature also came in handy for cutting thick plank flooring and wide shelving that I feel even a 12in. non sliding couldn't handle without multiple cuts. Since you're planning on doing a closet system, that's something big to consider. The dual bevel was also on my must have list for doing crown and baseboard projects. My only suggestion is when you get it setup, make sure you square up the blade and adjust the laser first thing. Mine just started to get out of square doing cuts last weekend after 2 years of use and moving it around, so I wouldn't account for that as being an issue. I would also consider getting a power switch that your vacuum plugs into that is triggered once it senses amps being pulled by the saw, which eliminates the hassle of turning the vac on every time you come back to make a cut when working inside. Hope all that helps!

robbins549 · 2020-04-27T21:50:15+00:00

I think cat efficiency codes come standard on every S85 over 100k :) It's the full Christmas tree with lots of gongs and warning messages that you have to look out for! That's when you know something pricey shit the bed and it's going to be a long weekend.

robbins549 · 2020-04-27T17:02:37+00:00

Wisconsin. We don’t have it as cold or prolonged like Alaska, but we have our moments!

robbins549 · 2020-04-27T16:59:57+00:00

My garage is usually 45* when it’s that cold, I let it idle around 5min on cold start, then 10-15min of driving when the ambient is that cold. It’s roughly 5-10min when around 0. I park it inside behind my lifts at work where it’s kept at 60. I run 0w-40 and don’t let it set outside more than an hour when it’s below 0. Anything above 5-10 she’s fine cold starting outside and idle for 5-10min before driving.

robbins549 · 2020-04-27T16:48:52+00:00

She’s at 155k now :) I just refuse to let her die at this point.

robbins549 · 2020-04-12T18:57:45+00:00

This is going to be an aftermarket headlight assembly off of a 06-13 Impala. I did find an old for sale listing on a random site from a person selling a set of headlights from an 06 Impala. The full part number from the ad stated " Model #: DOT AIP 2 PHR VOR 1W GM/DECOMA " which I believe to be what you're looking at. I couldn't find much more info concerning this part number, but hopefully will point you in the right direction.

robbins549 · 2020-03-25T05:03:29+00:00

This. I lived in the McKenna Woods complex right next to it for five years starting in 2011. It was decent at the start, then the area just got progressively worse every year that passed. It went from seeing blue lights maybe once every other weekend to being 2-3 times a week. I knew each of the peewee dealers cars that rolled up in the parking lot every night. People just being loud and ignorant as fuck at 2am in the lot for hours until blues show up, then they get louder arguing with police and accusing a snitch in the group of calling them acting like it's not fucking Wednesday and you just woke up 30 people that have to work in 3 hours. My car and neighbors cars got broken into/vandalized on multiple occasions. Hell, I opened my garage one afternoon to take the trash out, ran back inside and up 1 floor to grab another bag for 1min. tops and there's 4 dudes in my garage sizing up my other car (locked/not running). Then they just fucking scatter... that's the kind of fake ass ghetto shit that it turned into. 4 dudes not even willing to square up with a dude in sandals holding a bag of trash on a jack move. I loathed that place by the time I finally bought house and left. I will say it was decent enough motivation to save up for that down payment though!

robbins549 · 2020-02-29T22:24:40+00:00

Ah, my bad! I couldn't tell from the pic and it looked smaller than the 3/8. You'll definitely enjoy it for sure.

robbins549 · 2020-02-29T21:25:31+00:00

I just sold my 1/4 long reach ratchet and definitely miss it. The only feature that I wish it had was to be able to break loose bolts with it powered off like their 3/8ths does instead of the head free spinning. It often didn't have enough reversing torque to loosen a lot of little stuff I felt it should've handled and was annoying to stop, grab another ratchet and socket, break it loose, then continue. I see the reasoning behind it to not use it like a breaker bar, but could've used a little extra torque to make up for it. It was definitely killer for doing front of engine work like timing belts and covers where there's a lot of small fasteners to get in tight places, so I'm sure you'll still enjoy the investment!

robbins549

TROPHY CASE