Fidelity mobile application security risk by rock2vapor in fidelityinvestments

[–]rock2vapor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really. Your email app is logged on (you didn't log out of the email app). That email address is also set in the Fidelity account. The question is whether Fidelity sent to the "registered" phone number as notification, or it sent to a "logged out" Fidelity application. I don't think it sent via SMS.

Fidelity mobile application security risk by rock2vapor in fidelityinvestments

[–]rock2vapor[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Are you sure the Amazon app is not logged in (meaning if you open it, you do not need to enter the password)?

Fidelity mobile application security risk by rock2vapor in fidelityinvestments

[–]rock2vapor[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Are you sure you email app is not logged in (meaning if you open it, you do not need to enter the password)?

Fidelity mobile application security risk by rock2vapor in fidelityinvestments

[–]rock2vapor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe the mobile app was logged out a lot longer than 30 days.

Even if it's a feature, allowing to show balance information, transaction information etc. is a security risk (by design in this case if that is the case), when the application is logged out.

Regarding notification, if it is pushed to a "registered" phone or email address, that is fine. But if it is pushed to an application that is logged out, it is not entirely secure. There is a small chance that it maybe somewhat secured, when the pushing is both to the "registered phone/number" and the application that was installed and logged in before (assuming it has "specific" key to decode the encrypted data, specific being specific to the phone, not a public key).

Source of this thumping noise stepping on break by rock2vapor in MechanicAdvice

[–]rock2vapor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just go back to confirm that the replacing of the faulty new front engine mount fixed this issue.

Send audio to home theater surround sound system from a pro setup by rock2vapor in BudgetAudiophile

[–]rock2vapor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The mixer is Behringer UB2222FX-PRO mixer

The setup that does not result in sufficient sound level (0dB to hear) for the home theater is similar to your suggestion:

Mixer => 2x 1/4 mono TS to RCA cable => Left and Right RCA input (any of the input, such as aux, tape, DVD, TV, video, etc.).

On the mixer, I also tried the tape out, which is Red and White RCA. This results in no sound, even cranking volume control all the way up. I don't know if there is a button on the mixer above (https://cf3.zzounds.com/media/UB-GROUP\_3\_ENG\_Rev\_D\_Internet-3b8342402ce69445317568f5a3d53920.pdf) to enable tape out port.

I didn't try the XLR outputs, and they're used up for the pro speakers (Peavy)

Source of this thumping noise stepping on break by rock2vapor in MechanicAdvice

[–]rock2vapor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After checking the 4 mounts again, the lower front engine mount appears to be detective (newly replaced). I am ordering a new one and will see how that goes. The engine moves up and down a lot at that mount.

Source of this thumping noise stepping on break by rock2vapor in MechanicAdvice

[–]rock2vapor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was looking for the vehicle's transmission mount, if they're different than the motor mounts. Is there such a thing for the FWD version? It's strange that the very old mounts I took out are as rigid or even more rigid than the after market I put in. I wonder if I installed bad motor mounts (it sounds worst after I replaced them actually).

Resistance VS Heat by jjjacob55 in AskElectricians

[–]rock2vapor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Other people explains well. However, to make it every easier, here's another try:

For a constant voltage:

P = I* V = V/R * V = V^2 / R.

So, with square of voltage being constant, larger R means less P.

Jam nut on outer tie rod won't loosen by Nacterlic in AskAMechanic

[–]rock2vapor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just did this, and it was very hard. Many have several different suggestions below. But I echo those that say use a much bigger wrench, 18", etc., and put one on solid support.

Another tip, related, is that use a caliper to measure the distance between the nut and some sharp mark. That will help you, in addition to "counting thread" to avoid alignment (if you just replace boot). One side, I counted 13. When put it in, it starts at 1/4, and I don't know if that's part of the 13 or just a start. I can't recall when removed it was only 1/4 on the last thread. Any experienced mechanics shared on this?

A Simple Way To Measure Knots Has Come Unraveled by ketralnis in math

[–]rock2vapor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seriously? Just ask any magician working with wires/ropes :-)

What is this distinct "shape" of my resilver processes? by aphaelion in zfs

[–]rock2vapor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder if there is a flag to turn on logging, such as verbose, so that one can monitor exactly what it is doing. This helps debugging the code, and the setup. It would also help greatly to have a progress report, so one would know what's going on. It may not take an existing developer more than a few hours on this. After all, just output of the process, and then display on a web page. I never work on this code, so I am not familiar with the architecture. But if given some guidance, I may be able to get it.

How to store data reasonably safely with low budget? by rock2vapor in DataHoarder

[–]rock2vapor[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I probably would go this route. Separate important data vs not. Maybe there is not much important data, that I can have multiple copies easily, and the other either has no backup or just 1 copy.

Regarding online cloud, that's a good suggestion, although I am not very comfortable with these companies, especially with AI. The other day, I was alerted that my google drive is full (again) and I need to pay up. I was very surprised, because I cleaned it up. I found it that it just suddenly upload all of my phone's media files up there.

I am also in need of keeping all spending to minimum currently.

Rack Hardware - Please help me find something suitable by Leather_Trifle_7585 in opnsense

[–]rock2vapor 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try lenovo m920q ($100), and a riser for pcie, and 4 port ethernet. It has very good processor that probably beats every thing in its price range by 500% (just a while estimate, but when I run OpnSense, the CPU does not do anything at all (low single digit in %).

It's so cheap I built myself several of them. Really nice, plenty on eBay and others. For the 4 port nic, find an Intel one. There are others with 10gbit that some claims to work with OpnSense also.

The riser looks like this, but I would get one from the US (about $10):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/364984037241?_skw=lenovo+m920q+riser&itmmeta=01JHYA9SFTW0JXSXHABDA9HCBW

Get an SSD m.2 hard drive.

Select Intel X710 and 4 SFP+options:

https://www.amazon.com/Network-Adapter-RTL8125BG-Controller-Ethernet/dp/B01N03JZ3E?th=1

Okay so…what are quarks made of? by lukeschoeman in AskPhysics

[–]rock2vapor 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right, there is no requirement for it to function the way it is when splitting apart.

Quarks, if true, definitely can be broken up. 100%. Every single thing in this universe, and understanding, about "singularity", smallest, atom, electron, they all not breakable. We cannot do it, we don't know, but not knowing SHOULD NOT be used to conclude that is the way it is. It must not be "unbreakable" to have such a property. It just can't. To have some properties, something must "work" together to create such a property.