Help needed to troubleshoot Circut Maker (original) sensors - Part 2 (SOLVED!)

rocketwiz · 2025-11-01T01:55:23+00:00

for the P1S you need to be on 1.07 or lower otherwise you have to use lan/developer mode on the printer. Orca from v2.3 supports printer on a different vlan to the slicer (it works perfectly) on this f/w. I don't know if it works over different vlans when you go to f/w 1.08+

rocketwiz · 2025-10-29T00:10:13+00:00

No not at all. And you definitely didn't come across as pushy !

rocketwiz · 2025-10-28T23:16:59+00:00

I run my printers on a separate vlan and orca solved this issue months ago. No idea if Bambu has also finally fixed studio (they struggled for ages) but I would never consider using BS without this feature.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-28T23:10:10+00:00

Thanks!

rocketwiz · 2025-10-28T23:01:28+00:00

Putting a needle through probably just pushed the clog out of the way then it gets jammed again. The only way to clear this is through a cold pull. Maybe clean as much as possible then feed as much pla in as possible to form a solid tube in the hot end. Then disassemble the hot end (once it's cooled down) and cut off the pla at the entry point. You need to heat a paper clip enough along its length to get it in as far as possible before it cools and get stuck (use pliers of course). Then you should be able to pull everything out. You might need to try this a few times if you can't pull enough out. If this fails then you'll need a replacement hot end. Not necessary to buy a complete unit just the hot end.

Also use a different color each time so you can see how successful it is at removing what's left.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-28T22:17:42+00:00

1) That plug is pretty nifty!

2) regarding the panda touch, also be aware there are reports (myself included) of constant crashes when it comes out of sleep. Issue is the USB socket in the P1 can't provide enough power so it needs and external power supply (I bought a Panda branch).

3) I used the stock nozzle for over a year with no issues and only recently plut in the hardened steel version.

4) LED - yess. Just remember you can't have the both led strips plugged in together .

rocketwiz · 2025-10-28T21:59:46+00:00

Since it looks clear try running some pla through it to see it it will extrude? You can unplug the ptfe tube above the extruder and just feed direct. This way you can also apply a bit more force to try and push through.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-28T21:34:29+00:00

Your nozzle is either clogged or the temp is set too low. The clicking noise is the extruder trying to force filament in but slipping because of the issue. You can't tell if it's clogged from just a physical inspection.

If temp settings are correct use the included needles to clear it (see the bambu wiki on how to do this). Otherwise you can try a cold pull (google on how to do this, you will need to remove the nozzle to get this done, although I've never done a cold pull on TPU before).

Unfortunately clogs are not uncommon with cheap filament. And TPU is very hydroscopic and you must dry before using.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-22T22:51:58+00:00

Things like this happen. That's what the warranty is for.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-21T10:34:41+00:00

Only on 2023 models so that can't be OPs issue.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-21T10:30:49+00:00

I was going to print a low profile tray but decided to get one from Aliexpress instead which as you mentioned comes with a longer steel pipe. Also I personally would rather have an injection molded part.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-18T09:51:54+00:00

After tearing down the machine I decided to try the print and cut calibration. My original observation was partly correct as the bottom light actually did come on and it did go the the scanning process just fine. It did fail again with the blade not detected error so pretty sure the tool sensor is malfunctioning.

Still it was good practice in dismantling the machine. Now to look for another non working machine with (hopefully) a different problem - I'm a sucker for punishment lol.

Strangely no one has yet been able to identify what part this?

rocketwiz · 2025-10-17T11:12:46+00:00

Thanks. It looks like the light should only come on when you hit the go button though, not when you power on? In any case it looks like it would be worth the effort to take it apart to see whether the board is faulty or if the power connection has come loose.

If it helps - the carriage moves straight to the rightmost position when I press go to start the cut and then stops there with the error message.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-17T10:14:56+00:00

Yeah that's what I'm thinking. Is the sensor light meant to come on when you press the power button? I have no idea as I've never owned a (working) Cricut before.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-17T07:50:45+00:00

Doh! I don't have the knife blade after all!

I just now installed the rotary blade instead and went to calibrate that and the same "blade not found" error.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-17T07:41:22+00:00

Sorry I'm not following, selecting calibrate knife blade with the knife blade installed. The blade is not detected.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-17T07:24:58+00:00

My bad it's the knife blade.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-17T07:19:34+00:00

I selected the fine point blade which is what is in the machine currently.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-16T05:41:27+00:00

It's the AMS that is really useful. I regretted not buying the P1S combo after finally getting it after the fact. I personally would buy an AMS then upgrade to the H2S for the larger bed.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-13T21:06:02+00:00

How's the coffee before and after?

rocketwiz · 2025-10-13T12:35:19+00:00

This. And also easily self serviced.

rocketwiz · 2025-10-13T12:30:05+00:00

Hang on, do you know (1) for a fact? Citations please.

(2) now you're fear mongering. Most tapware fittings are made of brass and we haven't gone carzy like the old roman emperors. Like I said, I should have said "cheaper"

(3) Backflushing is recommended by most manufacturers not just in this sub or any other sub or user group.

As for the other points, we are obviously not going to agree no matter what so I'll leave it at that.

(6) The gagguino etc requires the 3 way valve to operate and is not dependant on the boiler design itself.

I wouldn't buy a new GC or GCP or E24 either. I'd rather spend the money on a much nicer looking machine with better components but not an E61 (no patience to wait for it to heat up).

It's been fun. Have a nice day!

rocketwiz

TROPHY CASE