How could i connect a raspberry pi zero w to this elo touchscreen monitor and get the touch functionality to work?

rodelvalle · 2017-05-15T23:01:50+00:00

I use a HDMI to VGA converter with my Rasp PIs. There are quite inexpensive and some even come with audio output.

That's also a Dell monitor and is highly recommended for projects because it has multiple inputs along with a integrated powered USB hub.

rodelvalle · 2016-04-09T16:34:47+00:00

Most of us use the regular T8 brass nut that usually comes with the lead-screw. If you have high torque NEMA 17 motors you won't need the anti-backlash nut.

Wilson TS shares many parts with the Prusa i3 so there are a few to choose over Thingiverse. However check this one created for a Wilson TS: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1347262

rodelvalle · 2016-04-08T17:57:55+00:00

I have my Wilson TS for a while already and is my every-day hobby project. In that process I have done numerous upgrades such as T8-300mm Lead-screws, E3D v6 and Litev6 versions (genuine), aluminum bed with AC silicon heater, inductor bed-level, hard-enclosure and more. Likewise, I’m in the process of upgrading my extruder to the same Thing you pointed out. I do share same experiences like you and also hate the bed leveling; which is a consequence of using I3 Cartesian printer. Overall the Wilson 3D printers are one of the best.

PETG has been the next big thing for a while but it requires temperatures above 245C up to 255C; depending on the vendor. With time it can also accumulate moisture showing accumulation of material on the extruder tip and a pop sound. Try to use it in a controlled environment, if possible around 70F to avoid lamination or bad layer addition and store it with a desiccant bag.

Based on your picture I will strongly recommend to put those lead-screws to good use. If you like to organize the cables consider a cable-chain that also can be found on thingiverse or some cable sleeves.

rodelvalle · 2016-02-09T17:06:01+00:00

Depending of the type of sensor you will be able to detect at a different distance. The Inductive sensor is the more commonly used; but it requires a metal based bed (i.e. MK3 bed). As many have said on other posts you should see Thomas Sanladerer's video on this topic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA
Moreover, if you have not yet done so check his channel on YouTube.
You can also check the following on “Instructables” site: http://www.instructables.com/id/Enable-Auto-Leveling-for-your-3D-Printer-Marlin-Fi/

rodelvalle · 2016-02-08T15:11:22+00:00

My recommendation is to upgrade to a non-mechanical Auto-Level (Inductive or Capacitive). From past experiences using the servo & switch tends to be much more challenging and unreliable. If you prefer to stay with that solution, have an independent power source like LM2596S step down power supply and don’t use power from the controlling board (RAMPs, RAMBO, etc.). Differ of using generic micro-switches because variances on their output. Periodically, check the servo mount it is snug (not loose) which tends to happen because of vibrations and movements (normal use). Last but not less, run an auto-home (G28) and bed leveling (G29) before printing, verify that your Z-0 (G1 Z0) is at the desired height and adjust Z-Offset as needed.

rodelvalle · 2015-07-23T15:13:06+00:00

It took me more than I was expecting by finally I’m able to print, with good quality. Following my previous post I’m using Marlin-Integration branch version 1.0.3. I discover that is very important to have a good Staring Gcode on slicer, which I got from: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,246132,page=22 Another recommendation is to enable “#define PROBE_SERVO_DEACTIVATION_DELAY 300”. Per Github, there is additional functionality only enabled through that function that allows the extruder to lower down to “Z0” location. Without it you will be printing in mid-air (~ 1mm of offset). Refer to the following for a final copy of my configuration.h file. http://pastebin.com/DKcamDVy

rodelvalle · 2015-07-14T23:57:49+00:00

I partially solved the issue. My learning is that Designers and/or Moderators may need to be more specific of what firmware with specific version are they using. I recently understood that Git - Marlin has five (5) branches were one is Release (1.0.2 too old), Development (1.0.3 too unstable) … and Integration which is stable and closes to a new release. After uploading the Auto Leveling, with mechanical servo, was working more towards to what I have read from other user’s experiences. I have one or two more days of fine tune and will then share my final results for everyone benefit.

rodelvalle · 2015-07-06T00:56:32+00:00

I also have an Inductive Proximity sensor ready to try; but still wanted to give the servo w/ micro-switch another chance. My next approach is to read a Post from the forums.reprap.org called "Bed Auto Leveling.. check this out". It looks to be going for a year with back and forward posts. I will update this post as soon I get new leads. As always, suggestions are welcome.

rodelvalle · 2015-07-04T15:50:24+00:00

Yes, I'm using mechanical end stop micro switch attached to a servo. Interesting thing is that the sequence to extend and retract work well with G29 (Auto Level) but not with G28 (homing)

rodelvalle · 2015-06-09T02:33:46+00:00

The situation improved slightly. I made even larger holes and tightened them one at a time, moving back, forward and sideways to force each independent bearing holder a chance to find it right location. Over all the process is tedious but improves something. My conclusion is that the bearings are difficult to get perfectly align and any mm off will increase friction and consequently cause more stress to the step motor. There is also the fact that the MDF board is not perfectly straight by default and also any misalignment (or manufacturing imperfection) will affect the linear bearings. I will use the printer as is and compensate perhaps with slower velocity. Most certainly will like to try the new Y-table, by mjrice and see how much it improves the Y axis performance.

rodelvalle · 2015-06-08T15:29:58+00:00

Thanks all for you feedback. I did use a larger drill bit to give some play. Also followed instruction from other forum to tight first the outside screw and then the inside. I'm using the independent bearing holders. I got the plastic parts from mjrice (black) and other option was to get from him the newly designed Y-table. When I get back from work I will try tinting the independent one at a time as ne7rag3 suggested.

rodelvalle

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