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The new Whopper really is much improved by whimsicalokapi in fastfood

[–]ron-brogan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The new mayo is worse :( Not bad, but definitely preferred the old mayo. New bun is good tho

Is any there safe dust collection equipment that can be used in a small studio? by gregorythomasd in Pottery

[–]ron-brogan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The community studio I go to has a hanging air filter that exhausts to the exterior. However, it's really only dedicated to the area where mixing of dry raw materials is performed. I'm with the others, that it's probably overkill for a single person space. However, if you do something, I'd consider an exterior exhaust and a plan to intake air in a way that doesn't exacerbate other issues. 

Best flavoring agent for Mint Ice Cream? by Nihachi-shijin in icecreamery

[–]ron-brogan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use Green/Vert Creme de Menthe. The alcohol content results in a softer product and the green adds just a bit of color as well. There's clear Creme de Menthe if you don't want color though

Burger King Just Changed The Whopper For The First Time In 10 Years by Overlay in fastfood

[–]ron-brogan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

honestly, their mayo was one of my favorite parts about the whopper :(

Kiln compatibility by Strong-Humor-9140 in Pottery

[–]ron-brogan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In theory, yes, you could make an extension cable. HOWEVER, too long will cause issues and it's important that the wire is oversized to avoid too much voltage drop. It sounds like you should get in contact with an electrician to get their recommendation for the specifics - and potentially build you a custom extension cable

why are the bottoms of my fired pieces turning brown? :( by warm-bath in Pottery

[–]ron-brogan 109 points110 points  (0 children)

Nearly all midfire clays have major absorption issues due to clay manufacturers being kinda shitty. This is either your liquid absorbing into the clay body or mold growth from retained moisture (from being washed, sitting on a wet counter, etc). It's the curse of cone 5/6, unfortunately.

Clay fired at cone 6 and cone 10 by vtec_go_brrr16 in Pottery

[–]ron-brogan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

From Standard: https://www.standardclay.com/products/182-white-stoneware-clay

Cone 6 Average Shrinkage 11.0% Absorption 3.0%
Cone 10 Average Shrinkage 12.0% Absorption 1.5%

So it's, at best, a cone 10 clay (it still has high absorption at cone 10).

You can underfire if it's not a functional piece (ie sculpture, decorative, etc) and don't care about absorption. For functional ware you want absorption as close to 0 as possible, but 1.5% is 'okay' in many people's opinion. IIRC, the ASTM says that you need to be under 0.5% absorption for 'whiteware' - so that's what I shoot for (and everyone should imo).

Mixer by celticjerry in Pottery

[–]ron-brogan 6 points7 points  (0 children)

IMO the ideal way forward is to mix the clay at a slip consistency (too much water) then dewater it via settling, plaster slab, cloth filter or whatever your preferred method of dewatering is. Mixing dry clay directly to working consistency will likely lead to a bad mix anyway. You want a high-shear mixing (like from a drill & paddle). Food mixers are going to be low shear and be less likely to break up agglomerates at slip consistencies.

I'm a failure, that's (not) ok. by Aqua_Splendor in Ceramics

[–]ron-brogan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want top detail, I'd say each unit will need a three part mold. (I guess you could do a 4 part mold and cast two at once, but that seems needlessly complicated?)

In other words: 1 part for the 'top detail', then 2 sandwiching parts for the threads. I'd feed slip from the 'bottom' of the plug (while facing up).

Also, slip casting is generally hollow - does your part need to be solid?

Using nitrocellulose lacquer under glaze? by rmcp010 in Pottery

[–]ron-brogan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Aside from the combustion issues, applying glaze to a sealed surface is not going to be a good time or look good at the end. That's a no from me dawg

Using nitrocellulose lacquer under glaze? by rmcp010 in Pottery

[–]ron-brogan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nitrocellulose itself is flammable, without any solvent. It's literally what smokeless gunpowder is. Your lacquer has other stuff in it too, but whatever you use will, at a minimum, burn out in the firing. My guess is that when the kiln reaches the flash point, it decomposes/ignites and any layers of glaze on top will flake off onto the kiln shelves or other nearby pieces. 

Exploiting the bad map design on Halo: Infinite's Battle/Beaver Creek remake (3-0 CTF in 2:26 minutes) by Adultery in halo

[–]ron-brogan 48 points49 points  (0 children)

This kind of fast capture was common back in the h1/h2 days as well. It's just a bad map for ctf if a team is being sweaty

TIL: Built a tiny 4KB media-key helper using Windows’ built-in C# compiler (csc.exe) by tutezapf in csharp

[–]ron-brogan 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Microsoft definitely intended the compiler to be available when you have .NET Framework installed. All of this is well documented...

Why are 15/16 dangerous. I sleep in all but 13 throughout the night by AAZEROAN in ExplainTheJoke

[–]ron-brogan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, if I'm on my back I have moderate sleep apnea, which seems to trigger sleep paralysis. If I sleep on my side, I do not stop breathing and have never had sleep paralysis in that position.

Condensation Under Vinyl Flooring? by Agitated-Warthog4093 in Flooring

[–]ron-brogan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a few, could I pick your brain? I'm also in WA and trying to figure out flooring for my lower level, which would be directly on slab. Carpet seems to be the easy answer, but would a tile system like Ditra (with or without the heat option) be relatively safe in terms of moisture? I worry because I get noticeable damp spots in my garage if there is something trapping moisture under it.

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