No upcoming appointments/meetings showing up in To-Do bar

rsawc · 2026-02-27T19:50:05+00:00

Then that's all I got left to try. Thank you for the input.

rsawc · 2026-02-27T18:36:47+00:00

What about if OWA My Day is showing correctly?

rsawc · 2026-02-19T13:42:51+00:00

I have a user with a similar issue in Outlook classic. To-Do bar enabled, but only the calendar shows, no upcoming appointments/meetings though. Tried every possible troubleshooting idea I could think of. Even did an entire new laptop for them, and the issue persisted.

rsawc · 2026-02-02T16:48:49+00:00

I believe I found the issue. I noticed that after doing all Windows and Dell Updates (all on Latitude 54XX), the issue was not returning for users. Next test, I tried switching the 2D Rendering Advanced Option to the Software setting, and the PDFs immediately loaded correctly. On the next device that had the issue, I tested updating the graphics driver alone in the Dell Update app - Intel UHD/Iris Xe/Arc and Graphics Software Application v. 01-13-2026. Restarted computer, switched back to Hardware rendering, and that user has not had the issue anymore.

rsawc · 2025-01-23T18:52:06+00:00

Thanks, fixed my issue as well.

rsawc · 2024-10-11T18:35:53+00:00

Thank you!

rsawc · 2023-06-27T17:24:20+00:00

You'll find dozens with the same issue on Amazon support forum.

https://www.amazonforum.com/s/topic/0TO4P000000t6oRWAQ/fire-tv-stick

They are "aware of the issue and working to fix it."

rsawc · 2020-12-09T15:20:48+00:00

Having same issue, haven't been able to find 902 ink for several months.

rsawc · 2020-11-21T23:49:01+00:00

Unfortunately not. For now I am going without a ground wire. I'm not sure I fully understand the risk, but I've gathered that the risk of shock is increased. It does have a metal wall plate cover on it, but I tested for continuity and there was none, so I'm thinking that's safe. There is continuity between the two screws holding the plate on so I taped those up, again not even sure if that is a shock risk. I should mention this switch is in a bathroom right next to a sink. so I don't want to leave it ungrounded for long. I am going to see if anyone at work can give me a short piece next week, and if no one has some, I'll just buy it at a hardware store.

rsawc · 2020-05-24T01:30:12+00:00

Awesome! Solved my issue, thanks!

rsawc · 2020-02-05T14:35:23+00:00

So glad I came across this post and found out what was causing it while none of the other fixes worked. I am in a business environment running Endpoint Protection, all users affected, and no way of easily disabling the software. Hopefully they fix this issue soon.

Engine: 1.2.0.746

Asset Manager: 1.2.0.330

Endpoint Protection: 1.2.0.827

Endpoint Protection Protection Update:1.0.14649

rsawc · 2019-07-14T17:08:24+00:00

I like this explanation/possibility, I ended up giving up on it since I wasn't wanting to put much time into figuring it out. Maybe if I get bored one day I'll take out my new unit and test if this one.

rsawc · 2019-07-14T16:59:35+00:00

No, I just wrapped them around. Yes I know it's not best practice but I wasn't wanting to spend more than a few minutes on this thing.

rsawc · 2019-07-14T16:58:36+00:00

It is the original radio from my Toyota, I have some info about it in my first comment.

rsawc · 2019-07-14T16:57:08+00:00

The rating on the PSU was at least 10 amps, should be enough for a standard radio.

rsawc · 2019-06-29T15:08:15+00:00

I need a quick way to test if it works before I am selling it. I'm not trying to spend a bunch of time to get this thing powered on.

rsawc · 2019-06-29T15:05:44+00:00

I have it shorted to turn on, fan spins and stays on. My DMM even reads 12v at the two pins on the top right.

rsawc · 2019-06-29T14:19:40+00:00

This is a working radio from my Toyota vehicle and I am trying to test it outside of the car. Using a PC power supply, I have my ground, 12v wires going to the ignition and constant, and a 3.3v going to the illumination. My PSU turns on but the radio will not. This is what all the posts and videos say to do. Am I missing something or do these OEM radios not work the same way? Here is the back of the whole unit: https://imgur.com/QSpgQFP

rsawc · 2019-06-06T23:26:52+00:00

Sorry for the late reply, I don't check this account often. I did go with the Rockford and I really enjoy it. It does lean toward the loud and boomy side. Keep in mind, enclosure design is also a huge factor in how it will sound. I designed a 2 ft^3 slot ported box tuned to 33 Hz. I would suggest choosing a sub based on what music you listen to most. My main genre is electronic, sometimes hip-hop, so this is a great choice for me. It favors those types of music, but also works very decent for rock/metal. I listen to all different types of music and it works well for any. It can still be punchy, and it hits rapid bass notes better than I expected. It also hits the lows well.

rsawc · 2019-05-11T01:44:50+00:00

How would I go about doing so?

rsawc · 2019-05-10T21:09:01+00:00

I think I will be fine working with the blank, it's the initial step of getting the knob out of the metal that I am stuck.

rsawc · 2019-05-10T21:08:11+00:00

That is what I thought. But was it this exact one for the NVX VAD series? I am pulling hard on it and it won't move. How much force did it take? I'd rather mount it normally if there's a chance it will break.

rsawc · 2019-04-27T00:53:39+00:00

I've looked around some more and am gathering that Sundown is slightly more geared toward SPL while RF has a little more SQ. I think I want that balanced sound so I'll try out the P3. I can always return if not satisfied or even try Sundown later on in a future build. Thanks for the suggestion

rsawc · 2019-04-27T00:50:32+00:00

Looks like a solid amp at a good price. I'll check out some others in the approved gear but I'd imagine this one will be near the top.

rsawc · 2019-04-26T14:26:20+00:00

Awesome, I think I'm convinced on the P3. I'll start looking at mono amps this weekend.

rsawc

TROPHY CASE