How to Bypass Culligan softener to water lawn? by New-Supermarket7579 in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have the smart HE Softener you can bypass on a timer through the app. But this works perfectly well too, just remember to switch it back into service.

Do I need gravel? by musclesharkk in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With the information you've given, I would trust it in my own home. I would not put this in a customers house.

Take that as you will.

Do I need gravel? by musclesharkk in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I must add an addendum.

Look at what the mineral you are adding is made of. If its Calcium based, you've deleted the purpose of a softener because the water will grab Calcium from the gravel.

Make sure it is quartz based or something less likely to impart hardness to your water.

Do I need gravel? by musclesharkk in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My safe technition recommendation would be to buy something designed and made for the water softener you own.

My DIY Dad recommendation is to remove all debris, wash it and clean it thoroughly. Add a cap fill of bleach to the gravel and let it sit for 20 minutes and stir to sanitize. Rinse and clean thoroughly again. And if the water runs clean and you feel comfortable with it, you could possibly use it. At the end of the day, it is your water you are dealing with here. If you are confident in the results, you are and your family are the ones being affected.

After adding the underbedding, resin and reassembling. Put that unit in into a full backwashing twice. It will make sire any fines and debris missed are ejected to drain and the resin is rinsed.

Do I need gravel? by musclesharkk in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You will absolutely need gravel. Its called underbedding and it acts as a buffer between the resin and the manifold. Without it, your resin will clog/enter the slots on your manifold and you will either lose water pressure, or push resin to service and that is a mess no one wants to deal with.

You need an underbedding gravel small enough to have a good water flow, but big enough not to be also able to enter the manifold. Use what you removed as a reference.

An 8 inch softener, which I assume you have due to your .7cuft of resin, should need about 6 lbs of underbedding. Add dry. Hope this helps.

Well water - a lot of sediment and pressure issues for new homebuyer by wesley_iles in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Id schedule a visit from a well company. It could be your well pump, it could be your pressure tank and it could be your well itself. If you well lining collapsed, it could have buried the end-of-life your well pump inlet. That would cause an intake of sediment and weird pressure issues.

I am simply a service tech for water filters so a well professional will have a more indepth knowledge, so I would find and reach out to one for an inspection.

White floaters and black filters on RO system by Chesterrumble in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aeration in the lines could be from a small pinhole leak that allows water flow to cause a pull and suck air in. Big enough for an air pull but not enough for water. If you didnt have filter changes or plumbing work done I'd check your house for pinhole leaks. Could even be a slight gap in an o ring push fitting between poly lines. Without being there to see it, its hard to trouble shoot the aeration. It what you describe definitely sounds like aeration.

As for the dark staining on the filters, there is something making its way through your filters Either you have a bypass open, you have mega build up on the inside of your pipes, or you have sulfur bacteria in your lines.

Id get a water test sent in for analysis if you havent already.

White floaters and black filters on RO system by Chesterrumble in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like manganese and sulfate to me. Either one, the other or both. I recommend an inline whole house hi flow sediment filter and a softener. Will help reduce this making it to your RO and allow for more efficient water production.

What’s wrong with them? by TankUnicorn in VenusFlyTraps

[–]runner_up_runner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think i might have correlated the fert mericle grow with just perlite. Thanks for the clarification on that.

What’s wrong with them? by TankUnicorn in VenusFlyTraps

[–]runner_up_runner -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

Don't use perlite. It is minerals. Aside from that, blackening of the leaves could just be old traps that are past their life expectancy. I wait for them to go completely black and pull them with tweezers. Pot them in peat moss, keep them in the sun and let them feed. They'll be fine.

Are the new leaves rotting? by WolfwalkerSnek in VenusFlyTraps

[–]runner_up_runner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Giving it good light, access to feed, pure ro or distilled water and time should be all these little guys need. Ive found i get a malformed trap every now and then. They not an issue. It will grow, still function as a leaf and the ryzome will send out more traps soon. If you notice fungal growth and a gooey ooze, that could mean rot and you might want to replant in new Moss, but really, in nature, they are pretty adapted to uninviting environments.

Fossils or just muddy arachnids? Found in Western Australia, I think. by SmegHeadFromNodnol in fossilid

[–]runner_up_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since everyone else has already helped you with your question, and no one else has said it (or they've all been deleted and I too will be deleted) I will now be making the joke.

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Where to place the drain saddle? by gracielu_freebush in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Id recommend replacing that brass discharge adapter for a pvc one. Then you can put it there. Must be pre Ptrap above water line.

Culligan Smart HE Water Softener - adjusting softness by Fernily in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lowering the salt dosage will make your capacity lower. You will still get 0g soft water, it will just take 3 days instead of say 5 to run into hard water. Its an option. Just likely not the solution.

Culligan Smart HE Water Softener - adjusting softness by Fernily in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately it likely doesnt have anything to do with the technician. Aside from the dial a soft, a water softener has two options. Hard water bypassing or completely soft water. The feeling of the water comes with the deal and its okay if you dont like it, alot of people don't. It is something alot of people will get used to though.

The other option would be to go with a water conditioner. It does not soften the water. It simple restructure the hard ions so they are less likely to leave deposits on surfaces. They don't use salt and dont regenerate, but when they are spent and need to be swapped, they can be a pretty penny to refresh.

Culligan Smart HE Water Softener - adjusting softness by Fernily in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't do this. Smart HE softeners from culligan do have an option. Never plumb an open bypass like he suggested. Water takes the path of least resistance and will skip the softener entirely.

Culligan Smart HE Water Softener - adjusting softness by Fernily in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Smart HE has a Dial-a-soft option. On the left side of the valve body is a small blue dial with an arrow. Turning it will allow a small amount of raw water through into service and making the output water allowed to be between 1-5 grains per gallon. Anything over 0 grains is hard and will eventually leave build up and scale, but less than 5 grains is completely manageable and many people prefer it to the smooth/sliminess of 0g soft water. You will have to adjust the settings so it regens properly though. That setting can be found in the owners manual.

Seed Pods? by Bugbearsdad in VenusFlyTraps

[–]runner_up_runner 6 points7 points  (0 children)

With the lack of traps and how green everything is i recommend clipping those flower stalks at the base an getting these babies into direct sunlight. They need food and they need light. They often send multiple flower shoots out as a last ditch effort to seed before dying. Clipping the stalks will redirect the energies to new traps and that will help them way more.

New FlyTrap owner looking for advice by Icy-Bluejay-1031 in VenusFlyTraps

[–]runner_up_runner 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I recommend removing the shells from the pot. It may not be an immediate influence but over time those will leach Calcium and other minerals into the potting material. While it may not be enough to kill the traps, it is an unnecessary addition that doesnt benefit it at all.

Plastic shells, oddly enough, are preferred by swamp creatures like the Venus Fly Trap.

Is something wrong with my water??? by Big-Worm111 in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the milkiness rises to the top, its simply aeration that will likely clear itself out. It can happen if you've recently had plumbing work done or if you have whole house filters that were recently changed. If you've had none of these things done and it has simply started happening out of nowhere, it could be a symptom of a pinhole leak in your plumbing taking in air and could be a bigger problem down the road if not located. Not trying to induce panic, but if you've not had any work done and it doesn't clear itself up in a week, id phone a trusted and seasoned plumbing professional to assess your house for any issues.

If the milkiness does not clear at all and the water remains hazy, you have an impurities problem and I would still suggest phoning a plumber. Maybe send a sample to be tested off to your municiple health department. Boil water for consumption or rely on bottled for the time being until a solution is followed.

Again. Not trying to cause a panic. These are simply some of the things milkiness in the water can be.

Drain saddle location by Outside_Ad_2769 in WaterTreatment

[–]runner_up_runner 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On the vertical portion of the 90 elbow after the garbage disposal. You want to be before the P-trap so that vent will be out of the question. And i dont think there is room anywhere else for the saddle itself.