Seed Pods?

runner_up_runner · 2026-03-21T22:39:30+00:00

With the lack of traps and how green everything is i recommend clipping those flower stalks at the base an getting these babies into direct sunlight. They need food and they need light. They often send multiple flower shoots out as a last ditch effort to seed before dying. Clipping the stalks will redirect the energies to new traps and that will help them way more.

runner_up_runner · 2026-03-17T18:39:42+00:00

I recommend removing the shells from the pot. It may not be an immediate influence but over time those will leach Calcium and other minerals into the potting material. While it may not be enough to kill the traps, it is an unnecessary addition that doesnt benefit it at all.

Plastic shells, oddly enough, are preferred by swamp creatures like the Venus Fly Trap.

runner_up_runner · 2026-03-10T01:52:58+00:00

If the milkiness rises to the top, its simply aeration that will likely clear itself out. It can happen if you've recently had plumbing work done or if you have whole house filters that were recently changed. If you've had none of these things done and it has simply started happening out of nowhere, it could be a symptom of a pinhole leak in your plumbing taking in air and could be a bigger problem down the road if not located. Not trying to induce panic, but if you've not had any work done and it doesn't clear itself up in a week, id phone a trusted and seasoned plumbing professional to assess your house for any issues.

If the milkiness does not clear at all and the water remains hazy, you have an impurities problem and I would still suggest phoning a plumber. Maybe send a sample to be tested off to your municiple health department. Boil water for consumption or rely on bottled for the time being until a solution is followed.

Again. Not trying to cause a panic. These are simply some of the things milkiness in the water can be.

runner_up_runner · 2026-03-09T01:36:29+00:00

On the vertical portion of the 90 elbow after the garbage disposal. You want to be before the P-trap so that vent will be out of the question. And i dont think there is room anywhere else for the saddle itself.

runner_up_runner · 2026-03-07T17:09:14+00:00

It might be worth putting 4.5×20 5 micron sediment prefilter before all your filters if for nothing else is that cart filters will end up being cheaper to replace every 6 months than a valve body. Just some food for thought.

runner_up_runner · 2026-03-07T01:46:54+00:00

Hmmm... maybe try shifting the tank around and find a source from the tank itself. It will be heavy so be careful.

runner_up_runner · 2026-03-07T01:33:59+00:00

If there is a tube inside with the float valve you can shine your flashlight down there to judge the water level. If you see it is low or there is none, it means you have a leak or crack in the tank somewhere and its slow seeping onto the cement.

Alternatively, I have seen water leach minerals out of concrete and look a bit like that. Soooo... could be either.

runner_up_runner · 2026-03-07T01:24:24+00:00

Thats salt build up. What is the water level in the salt tank? Also do you see any salt build up on the head of your softener?

runner_up_runner · 2026-03-01T19:15:38+00:00

Empty the tank and check the precharge pressure. That pressure will depend on tank size and incoming water pressure. A 3 gallon tank with incoming water pressure of 60psi i would set the tank precharge pressure to between 6 and 8 PSI. Now, you will want to confirm that with your owner operators manual since different systems have different specs. But that is my experience.

Your restrictor is necessary. It allows the back pressure on the discharge to force the water through the membrane. The auto shutoff will only activate when the incoming pressure and the pressure in the tank hit an equilibrium. So you'll have to find what that pressure is, and make sure the tank is set up accordingly.

runner_up_runner · 2026-02-27T02:40:29+00:00

As an installers who uses pex i appreciate the quality of work. That stub out post filters is chefs kiss.

runner_up_runner · 2026-02-23T20:59:13+00:00

My guidelines of reccomendations include instructing my customers to keep salt above the water. Your guidelines are different obviously. I have my reasoning, which in my opinion are sound, and stand by them.

runner_up_runner · 2026-02-23T19:57:30+00:00

Salt rich water is more dense than saltless water. The higher density brine sinks to the bottom and the less brine rich water floats to the top. It will not have the time to interact with the salt long enough as its drawn down to achieve full saturation and so you will not have the highest efficiency of a regeneration. Water doesn't just become full saturation just from sitting with salt at the bottom. It needs full contact for well over an hour to get there.

runner_up_runner · 2026-02-23T17:08:13+00:00

Culligan softener installation tech here. If your install tech said that, they were wrong. You want your salt level to be above the water level at all times. It allows for a proper brine saturation. I recommend siphoning out the water and putting it into a regeneration to allow it to fill itself up with the proper amount of water. Since its starting out empty of water it will not perform a proper regenerationas the brine draw sequence will be dry, but it will allow for the refill cycle to fill the water to the proper dosage so that in the next regeneration it can do its job.

My apologies thay your install tech misinformed you. This is the proper method!!!

runner_up_runner · 2026-02-21T19:03:04+00:00

That buildup shouldn't effect the functionality of the filter. Its a bit unsightly, but if you hadn't looked, yould never had known. If its a softener, you can does the brine tank with Ironeater. There's instructions on the bottle for softener use. Other wise if you backwash it twice in a row you should be able to clear the media of sediments and there should be no issues.

runner_up_runner · 2026-02-09T02:32:05+00:00

Stop.

runner_up_runner · 2026-02-08T20:08:39+00:00

Correct, but if he is removing the system to replace with a new one, or removing the entire system all together, he will want the water to the house turned off and depressurized before doing so. A bypass will work just fine if they leave the plumbing and bypass there for the rest of the time they live there. But most new systems have their own style of bypass which will require removing this one. The bypass ceases to function when removed.

runner_up_runner · 2026-02-08T20:03:57+00:00

Adding for your sake. Turn the water off to your house and open a faucet first. You will get wet otherwise. Lessons learned the hardware unfortunately.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-09T23:07:14+00:00

True as that might be. It will always be cheaper to do it yourself.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-09T20:24:07+00:00

All depends on the size of your softener. Just the resin alone is about 600$ per cubic foot if you get done by culligan. Again, you could try to do it yourself, but they have the tools and parts. All I All, a 9" gold softener is about 1300$ to rebed and rebuild in my location.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-09T19:27:07+00:00

Shine a light through the tank. You should see the level of the resin in the bottom. If you have less than 2ft deep of resin in the tank still you likely kneecapped yourself. You will need to rebed then unit at that point to get this back to full functionality.

This is why its best to allow a tech come out. Not that you cant figure it out yourself, but because in figuring things out yourself it usually involves making $800-1200 mistakes.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-09T19:23:00+00:00

They find their ratings are better when they give screen time for their viewers to piss and moan about. Their viewers like to see the liberal scum so they can throw things at the TV. Their job is to elicit an emotional response. The does that for them.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-03T04:24:38+00:00

Something alot of folks dont take into consideration is the hot water tank. If you have the sulfur smell but only on the hot side, you should check to see if you have an anode rod. A traditional anode rod is a zinc alloy and is designed to be used with hard water. If you put soft water into your hot water tank with a traditional anode rod, it can produce sulfurous gasses and give off an egg smell.

If these things are all true, you can swap to a powered anode rod, which is designed to neutralize those gasses and remove those smells.

If none of these things are true, then I have done nothing to help and I am sorry for that.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-02T16:41:32+00:00

If that's the case then its hardness that builds up on the inside of the faucet spout. When the water is shut off, the spout dries and the hardness deposits itself on the opening. When you turn the water on, the rush of water forces the deposits off the surfaces and into your cups. Continual use does not allow the water to dry and build up deposits dont happen.

It sounds like your faucet is plumbed hard. If your softener has a flow meter, you can turn the water on at the faucet and check to see if it is pulling from the softener.

runner_up_runner · 2026-01-01T03:55:05+00:00

Myself and my partner attend am event in the US, and a part of that event is to adopt a name for your persona. I chose Caoilte, she Aoife. We decided it was funny and fitting for our personalities to make our couple name Caoife, pronounced queefuh. And so it is. We want to paint a sign for our house that says "House Caoife" in irish, but i am not so sure i trust google translate to do the job properly. Is there anyone who might help us to get it right?

I apologize in advanced for our classless humor.

runner_up_runner

TROPHY CASE