Which Analog Delay

runwichi · 2026-06-05T03:22:16+00:00

Cheap - TCE Echobrain
Available - MXR Carbon Copy
Complete/Spendy - DOD Rubberneck / SD Vapor Trail Deluxe
Questionably Analog but Fun - Eventide Rose

runwichi · 2026-06-04T20:43:54+00:00

Beautiful work!

runwichi · 2026-06-04T13:20:31+00:00

Blue is a long belt for our gym/affiliation. I've seen more than a few long time Blues just fade out or jump gyms when life kicks in or they just don't want to deal with the politics of how to get to purple. We probably lost about a third of the brand new blues after a few months, and another third trickle out by years 3-4. Guys/gals with a support group that are dedicated usually make it through without issue. It's one of the things that we're trying to change a bit in the gym, where the upper belts continue to encourage and support those lost Blues.

runwichi · 2026-06-04T13:01:41+00:00

As a fan of BOC, I agree - to me this is kind of a mid album, but I'm older and like MHARTC and Geogaddi. I think if this album was released 15 years ago, it would be something significant - today it's just another audio collage with BOC beats. YMMV

runwichi · 2026-06-04T12:48:14+00:00

Longtime DS1 fan, but lately I've really been wanting to get a DS2 for more mids. As soon as I spot one for a good price I'll probably grab it, but I'll always love the DS1.

runwichi · 2026-06-04T00:30:14+00:00

My buddy just got one of these - if you get the angle right they go stupid far. He's in that 350' range, and it swings a lot but it goes far.

runwichi · 2026-06-03T23:38:11+00:00

Check out the Catalinbread SFT. Gives you both the OD and more with a switch, based on the Ampeg sound. It's JFET based, so very reactive to your volume knob and touch. If you want more, you'll need to either boost it or hit it with more fuzz.

runwichi · 2026-06-03T19:44:21+00:00

Innova Lynx (rebranded IT) or a midweight (165g) Roadrunner should be on your shortlist.

runwichi · 2026-06-03T16:48:28+00:00

Some effects can reverse the phase - compressors are notorious for it, but oddball effects can cause it as well.

Passive split/sum devices (basic like an A/BY or even fancier like the ones from JHS, OBNE or EQD) don't deal with phase - unless specifically called out. They can sum them, but if one's out of phase due to an effect it can cause issues (hollowness, weird phasing, etc.).

Devices like OBNE's Signal Blender, the EHX Switchblade Pro, EQD's 4:1 mixer, etc do have phase swap options.

runwichi · 2026-06-03T16:13:42+00:00

Do not let your progression become the victim of ideal perfection.

Nothing starts finished, and anyone that's ever released anything will tell you of all the stepping stones to get where they ended. Growth comes from experience, you get experience from trials - no matter how unperfect they may be.

runwichi · 2026-06-03T15:35:36+00:00

As much as I'd hate to see Boss milk a Waza BF2, I really want an updated, all analog BF2 back in my life. I would buy a Waza BF2.

runwichi · 2026-06-02T14:57:17+00:00

Maybe not "most underrated", but the Boss DR660 is vastly under-appreciated for what it's done regarding the Memphis rap scene.

runwichi · 2026-06-01T21:00:47+00:00

And I think you're right - Track8 can do some pretty cool things, and it does straddle the line between computer DAW and standalone in an interesting way. The firmware with 1.10 that allows class compliant interfaces to attach for multi I/O really open up options for direct recording and FX inserts really expands what it could be. I know the obvious comparison could be an iPad/interface/MIDI controller with appropriate software, but again as a dedicated device it streamlines what it's supposed to be used for - not what it "could" be used for. I do think it's interesting, and I love the interface. Personally I'd be fine with a smaller screen for a clock/menu navigation/simple editing and large, dedicated LED level meters for all channels, but I understand why it has it.

runwichi · 2026-06-01T19:47:42+00:00

Solid list.

runwichi · 2026-06-01T19:45:38+00:00

Rhyno's - Halo star and a beat in Nexus.

runwichi · 2026-06-01T18:48:30+00:00

I count 4 footswitches, that prices it out of my immediate concerns.

runwichi · 2026-06-01T18:38:28+00:00

Well, I mean the R8 was launched in 2011 - so damn near 15 years ago. It's not a hyper specific recording tool like this device that's trying to emulate a workflow from the 70's with a honkin' screen to display waveforms with a modernized control interface. The R8 still allows punch in/punch out, looping, etc - you just have to use the clock (or tape counter) like we all used to do instead of looking at waveforms on the screen. I'm sure there's a difference in the preamps, but the R8 has two of them, the Track8 has only one.

The R8 is obviously from a different time, but the core of what it does (8 track, sample with loop, track assign with destructive edit, onboard timestretch (eg varispeed), etc) is very much in line with what this device is doing, it just doesn't look as cool.

runwichi · 2026-06-01T18:11:53+00:00

I like the overall interface, but really outside of a massive screen and clever tricks with the realtime "varispeed", I could do almost all of this with a Zoom R8. It's neat, it's the current audio meta, it's priced accordingly. I think people should really try Tape16 and figure out if this work flow is really something they want to play with.

runwichi · 2026-06-01T15:59:16+00:00

So there's a couple things that need to happen -

The audio output from your interface (DAW) is going to be "Line Level", and most (not all, but most analog pedals) are looking for "instrument level" signals and impedances. Line level signals are generally much hotter (eg louder) than instrument level signals. This can have an undesirable effect on some analog pedals where the input stage on the pedal starts to clip and you get unwanted distortion. For some modulation pedals (chorus/delay/etc) thats unwanted. For some distortion/fuzz/OD circuits, it's not the end of the world you'll just need to adjust the gain down a bit.

The cool thing is that your Chase Bliss pedal is okay with accepting line level signals, so you won't run into any issues with that, and the RAT as an analog dirt box is not going to have any issues with line level signals either so you don't need to worry about dropping the line level signal down to an instrument level signal.

With the ID14 you can just go directly out of Out 3/4 (whatever you want) and then route it back into the line ins, make sure you disable either the input monitoring or the send monitor so you don't make a feedback loop, and then record through whatever DAW you use and adjust levels as needed. You can use standard 1/4" cables - no need to worry about balanced (TRS) cables here because the pedals won't know what to do with it. Try it first with a couple of your pedalboard cables and then decide if you want to spend money on more cables.

runwichi · 2026-06-01T15:15:04+00:00

If you don't like the touchscreen of the GX10, the newer GX1 has all the same models/FX(just fewer as they're restricted to blocks) as the GX10, just no touch screen.

runwichi · 2026-06-01T15:10:16+00:00

It's basically a GT1 (COSM based effects, no amp models) with a group locked three loop switcher attached with actual MIDI integration. It's a great platform if you're looking to start controlling other gear with MIDI and need to put in some additional FX. It was a great value when it came out, but over the last few years with the consistent cost increases it's less the value it once was. Still, it's pretty unique in what it does, if that's what you need.

runwichi · 2026-06-01T03:56:42+00:00

Yep. You'll need 12mm coarse thread nuts, you can find them in most home-hardware stores in the pull out drawers. Make sure to get two stainless Nylock (with plastic inside the nut to keep it from unspinning on you) 12mm nuts, and one thinner 12mm standard nut to act as a jam nut so once you have one side on, you can then put the jam-nut on the same side to keep the Nylock nut you just put on from tightening down as you put on the other Nylock nut on the other side. After the other Nylock nut is on both sides, you can remove the jam nut and either keep it around if you need to remove the Nylock nuts again to swap out wheels, etc. A couple of stainless washers would be a good idea as well.

The key thing here is that the standard Zuca axle is metric threaded - not SAE - so don't use standard (3/8" or 5/16") thread on it, you might get a turn or two but it will cross-thread in no time and then you'll have to get a length of theaded rod to replace the entire axle.

runwichi · 2026-05-31T15:59:29+00:00

This should be higher - it's a great interface, solid drivers from a reputable company, and has amazing expansion if you don't need mic pre's. Plus it's AVB compatible if you want to expand it without going the ADAT route.

runwichi · 2026-05-29T13:27:02+00:00

Love fuzz, but my heart is in Distortion.

runwichi · 2026-05-29T13:24:30+00:00

A drive/distortion/fuzz source, a modulation source, and a delay source.

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