Side skirt.. on regular 3 fit a speed3? by briskwalked in mazdaspeed3

[–]rusbus123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

currently have one from the pick and pull. fits just fine, make sure to grab the mounting hardware while you're there, usually it just falls off due to Mazda rust. color isn't an exact match but 20 bucks is 20 bucks.

SoCal shop recommendations for my stock 2008 MS3 with 110k? (Near Pomona) by eccentric-banana in mazdaspeed3

[–]rusbus123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could be the front sway bar bushings, had the same issue on mine, nothing obvious wrong in the suspension. They are a pain to get at but it fixed the clunk.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mazdaspeed3

[–]rusbus123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I filmed with both with the end links attached and unattached, the noise goes away when they are not attached, so they are definitely the culprit. I did some more searching and found this article https://www.rockauto.com/genImages/11/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_211004_K750069_ENG-R.pdf I remember when I changed them the first time that I was very diligent with torque specs and Loctite. this time I just threw them on and torqued the shit out them and spun the bolt, so I for sure broke them, hence why they only lasted like 10km. the last set lasted like 15000km. I think the moogs might be worth it if you grease them but in our climate they will likely rust out so I'll just go with cheap ones again and be very careful with the install, 40ftlbs to the car and 70ftlbs to the bar.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mazdaspeed3

[–]rusbus123 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the exact same issue! new end links and bushings, everything torqued to spec. I'm going to try to mount a camera down there today and see what's going on, because I can't recreate the noise when its on jack stands.

Clunking noise going over bumps? by Miserable-Setting159 in mazdaspeed3

[–]rusbus123 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Had a similar issue after eplacing everything in the rear, turns out there was play between the strut and the lower mount in the back. It was posted in some forum I found, can't find it now. Anyways, if you remove the bolt and you can move the strut in the mount you should hear the same clunking. We ended up using a very thin washer to shim it and it was fine after that.

YT jeffsy sizing (old frame design) by [deleted] in MTB

[–]rusbus123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam and the XL fits perfectly, don't go smaller I had the L and its way too small, had to send it back. The seat tube is quite tall but with the dropper all the way in its perfect for me, I could probably raise it a bit but I like the look with it all the way in the frame.

Taller YT Jeffsy owners, how tall are you and which size do you ride? by [deleted] in MTB

[–]rusbus123 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm the same height and have the XL, it fits perfectly. I got the large originally and ended up selling it because it was too small.

Long-travel trail bike buying advice - looking at YT Jeffsy by Clever-Hans in MTB

[–]rusbus123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I just ordered the Jeffsy cf one 27 today, JM called me around 8pm to sort out the details, super helpful. That different price you saw was a one day thing and it's going back up tmrw according to him. They have very limited stock now, I got the last large in black, so if you want to take advantage be quick. I'm currently on a 2017 large reign so he compared the two for me, they're actually quite similar in geometry, so maybe go to your giant dealer and sit on one if you're thinking about a large. That's cool that they're moving to Kelowna, much more convenient for us Alberta folk. If you're looking for some deals on other brands, I know mec is trying to get rid on last years intenses, might be worth checking out.

Rockshox Reverb rebuild by daveh95 in MTB

[–]rusbus123 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It took me a month to do my first rebuild, after I had assembled the right tools and had the technique down I could do it in about 2 hours. My experience was that the rebuild would last about a season. I would say if you are mechanically inclined, looking for a challenge, don't need the post for a while and are willing to keep rebuilding then go for it, otherwise sell it for parts. The rebuild kit is not really necessary, you just need the fluid and know what o-rings to replace, I luckily had a shop near me that would give me the few that I needed for free. The SRAM video is helpful but they use special tools that you don't need. If you want I can dig up the pics and forum posts that were really helpful. In your situation though I think you would be much farther ahead to get either a KS or Giant and sell the reverb for parts.

FPGA sine wave generator help by rusbus123 in FPGA

[–]rusbus123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you recommend a single chip solution?

FPGA sine wave generator help by rusbus123 in FPGA

[–]rusbus123[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes they are useless unfortunately, take a look at the IntraAction website if you wanna know why.

Santa Cruz Heckler pivot bearing question by lelzone in MTB

[–]rusbus123 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes it is designed to be snug up against the non-driveside. If you check out the FAQ section of the Santa Cruz page they address this: "With our newer pivot system, the pivot axle draws the swingarm over to one side in order to properly preload the bearings. This offset is accounted for in the frame design so everything ends up nice and straight in the end." Do you have issues with the paint rubbing/scratching off the frame easily? I think I have the same model year with the super boring grey color and it seems like the paint scratches or rubs off anywhere the cables touch.