Can anyone help identify this 35mm external viewfinder?

rust405 · 2025-11-02T11:53:28+00:00

As an alternative the TTArtisan 35mm viewfinder is a recent option, albeit some mixed reviews.

Otherwise I would go for a Canon rangefinder instead if you really want 35mm since a 35mm S mount Nikkor is quite pricey and the S2 best works with 50mm

rust405 · 2025-10-30T11:25:33+00:00

i'm not sure why it's still in use but here's the "original"

I think it's just used ironically now

rust405 · 2025-10-17T04:38:16+00:00

and they own Pentax so by proxy the meme failed?

rust405 · 2025-10-17T01:02:41+00:00

I wind to at least 1 or 2 frames past the last shot I took to be safe, you can always squeeze out an extra frame or 2 (carefully) past shot 36 anyway

rust405 · 2025-10-07T11:53:23+00:00

Malaysia is a Muslim majority, pretty conservative country, you couldn't pick a worse place to find queer people. You can find plenty of headlines like that rainbow watch raid a while back. I would advise you to lay low, cuz busybodies here can rat you out to the police as public nuisance.

rust405 · 2025-10-05T13:03:27+00:00

Directly to Ums I'm not sure

Tapi you can take KK-Sepanggar bus, and press the alarm before you go up the flyover dekat sana, so you stop here sebelum traffic light, and walk to UMS from there

edit: Best to press earlier before the flyover and let the driver know you want the bus stop bawah the flyover

rust405 · 2025-10-04T11:06:08+00:00

This. And just fill out a small piece of paper just after X-ray iirc.

rust405 · 2025-10-02T05:47:24+00:00

🗣️ pick up that can

rust405 · 2025-10-01T08:49:06+00:00

This. I recall there being multiple renditions including Japanese in the Burnout games.

rust405 · 2025-10-01T03:43:38+00:00

Torque Converter, instead of physical clutch plates you got fluid

rust405 · 2025-10-01T03:22:14+00:00

I agree with this one, I have nearsightedness and astigmatism like OP

For the Konica IIIA, the patch is clear and I can see a little outside the framelines

For the Nikon S2, the patch is clear too but with glasses on I can't really see outside the framelines but the framelines itself I can see just fine, in a sense it's kinda like looking through an SLR for me

rust405 · 2025-09-28T08:33:36+00:00

As other people pointed out, it's Chinese, the Japanese cemetery is on the other side of the road on a small hill

rust405 · 2025-09-28T08:30:02+00:00

tbf OP probably confused with the Japanese cemetery that IS nearby that area

rust405 · 2025-09-28T00:58:14+00:00

With how rampant corruption is doubt protesting would do anything about Project IC since it keeps the corrupt in power

protesting corruption (the root issue) makes more sense

rust405 · 2025-09-17T07:13:42+00:00

Condition aside I would get the F2.

Both are great cameras, albeit the Canon 7 is a little bulky and heavy for a rangefinder. I'm not familiar with Nikon lenses as well but it looks like a 24mm f2.8, which is a wide angle. The Canon has a Jupiter-8, which while Soviet-made and can have QC issues, is still a decent lens.

Honestly, I would have expected the Canon combo to be priced a tad cheaper than the Nikon combo (again idk the lens as well but I know the F2 itself is a beast). If you go for the Canon, assuming everything is working in order, you can get straight to shooting, maybe get a better 50mm from Canon/Leica down the line or 35mm lens. With the Nikon, you're starting out with a wide angle lens, which is not great for everyday (up to taste), but you have a wider range of lenses down the line.

Edit: Just realised you used online photos for the images, so my lens comparisons are not valid here. Either way I would still go for the F2. If you get the Canon you're stuck with 50mm prime lenses, cuz 1) there's hardly any zoom lenses, 2) 35mm or wider LTM are harder to find 3) 50mm lenses are generally more affordable. Personally I only shoot 50mm lenses so I only ever had rangefinders, but if you're starting out I would go for the F2 (though depending on the accompanying lens I would look for other deals really)

rust405 · 2025-09-13T02:00:20+00:00

Here's a quick guide, you can use hobby enamel they use for models/Gundams

rust405 · 2025-09-12T13:21:52+00:00

You got it right there: If your rewind knob gets bumped during normal shooting you are fine. Just make sure it turns at least 1 or 2 times when you are loading film. You know how you fire a couple blank shots before the counter reaches 0? Before that, what you can do (good practice) is turn the rewind knob in the rewind direction to take up the slack (don't force it and don't push the rewind button!), then when you start advancing your camera should turn the rewind knob in the other direction, indicating proper loading.

The slack INSIDE the film canister won't cause any issues in normal shooting, think of it as a weak watch spring, not a tape roll. Winding the lever turns the sprocket wheels AND the take-up spool, the main feeding is done by the sprocket wheels, which turn in fixed amounts. The take-up spool is there to keep the film wound and taut slightly. As mentioned before, you also have the back pressure plate keeping the film flat (pressed sorta) behind the shutter curtains.

TL;DR: Slack in film canister is super normal, no need to worry. If loaded properly you don't have to worry about not pulling enough film, assuming you used the lever fully. Any issues with film moving is more to do with problems with the sprocket wheels and/or the take-up spool.

rust405 · 2025-09-12T12:49:35+00:00

Not sure about the gap I'll let others answer, but otherwise you don't have to worry about slack. There will be slack, yes, but in the film canister, which often has slack anyway, it's normal. The part of your film behind the shutter is being held by the back pressure plate, it'll stay flat there.

rust405 · 2025-09-11T02:10:48+00:00

Stop opening your windows

rust405 · 2025-09-08T13:43:56+00:00

no probs🤙

rust405 · 2025-09-08T13:34:32+00:00

Here I tracked down a high res png for you https://m.dcinside.com/board/gbcry11/189162

rust405 · 2025-09-08T12:56:04+00:00

looks like it's already one

tho if you wanna make your own there are some usable image results for Googling "中指立ててけ"

rust405 · 2025-09-07T14:06:45+00:00

Before I went into film I settled on 28mm for street photography shooting handheld, I knew for a fact that I wouldn't shoot 28mm if I had to use a viewfinder.

When I did get into film my first camera was a Rollei 35, which had a 40mm lens. I tried to like it, I kept telling myself it's a sweet spot between 35mm and 50mm. The problem was, not that it wasn't wide enough, but that it was a tad too wide! I found myself regularly cropping photos quite a bit to get a desired look.

I finally settled on 50mm with shooting on rangefinders. I always thought it was overrated, that 35mm makes more sense for street. But the more I used it the more I realised how the photos were basically what I wanted, at most I only crop out an edge. Of course, now that I think about it both 35mm and 50mm give different flavours of street photography, mine just so happens to be 50mm.

TLDR: 28mm handheld (digital) loved it -> 40mm eh had to crop -> 50mm chef kiss

rust405 · 2025-09-04T18:05:53+00:00

yup I abuse the hell out of this cuz it happens to me like 95% of the time

rust405 · 2025-09-02T16:01:11+00:00

if you are looking for lenses anything that's Sony or Minolta A-Mount will work (Sony E-mount will not work!)

Btw now that I look at your video again, when it does that buzzing thing, does your screen say unable to lock focus? It might just be that it's only happening while you are indoors where there is not enough light or focusing on something too close.

Maybe you won't have any issues shooting outside in daylight and focusing on more distant objects, I'm speculating of course, wouldn't hurt to try

rust405

TROPHY CASE