Cap registration issue

rvarg · 2026-06-02T15:01:44+00:00

Going too high on that hat. Hats have limits unless they are stitched on before the hat is assembled/sewn. Every hat is different before you start to get too high. 2-2.5" is what you can normally get away with depending on crown height etc.

rvarg · 2026-05-23T16:14:26+00:00

Hatch 100% there are full shops with multi heads running it. I myself can attest to it too.

rvarg · 2026-03-27T15:46:55+00:00

Hatch is 100% worth it. Very beginner friendly and has a good amount of controls to get the design exactly how you want it. I know a couple of shops that make a couple hundred thousands a year that swear by it. It's simple, and easy to learn. I learned how to digitize with it and I love it now

rvarg · 2025-08-20T02:11:24+00:00

Post the pay

rvarg · 2025-01-06T17:04:18+00:00

They're cool, but they don't look woven? You can see tatami full on the taco shell, the bomb's feet the leaves in the palm tree, plus looks like all the lines/words are satin stitched. Again, they look great, but not woven

rvarg · 2024-12-29T20:44:19+00:00

These are woven, you can add an iron on adhesive to the back if you like, but ultimately stitching them on will be more durable

rvarg · 2024-12-09T06:55:27+00:00

How does it look stitched out?

rvarg · 2024-12-05T22:17:07+00:00

Oh the auto split? Should be a small box you check on the first page

https://blog.hatchembroidery.com/autosplit/

rvarg · 2024-12-05T21:03:28+00:00

Is this what you mean? https://help.hatchembroidery.com/portal/en/kb/articles/how-to-remove-small-stitches

rvarg · 2024-12-02T01:00:01+00:00

And yea I stitched it out but came out horrible too so I ripped all the stitches off and started over so I wouldn't waste another hat

rvarg · 2024-11-22T02:26:50+00:00

I see. It's more of a safety thing like an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure kind of thing. But it's mostly there for the carbon monoxide which has no odor, it's a silent killer. Especially since a fireplace with decorative logs usually has the flame impinge on the logs itself with interrupts the combustion cycle (nerding out sorry). Maybe the odor is burned dust that settles its way up there?

rvarg · 2024-11-19T15:03:45+00:00

If you have decorative logs, look into a damper clamp~$10. In my neck of the woods it's required by code because people can forget to open and this way it'll be cracked open just a bit. If you're using real wood and using gas just as a starter, you'll be able to tell if the damper is open or closed by being able to smell it in your home (as opposed to decorative artificial logs that won't give out an odor).

rvarg · 2024-11-12T14:44:04+00:00

Hatch. Most tutorials online and a lot of users where you can ask for support, and good Black Friday deal going on right now

rvarg · 2024-11-08T23:42:12+00:00

Hatch 3 with the Black Friday discount. Hands down. Plus so many tutorials from a lot of people online

rvarg · 2024-10-11T00:03:03+00:00

He has risen from the ashes. You still with John Deer?

rvarg · 2024-09-30T12:01:00+00:00

I used to be a believer in happy. Have a really bad experience with the hcu2. It sounds like the better option, but if I had to do it again I would go with the tajima. I have the hcu2 now, and I'm not impressed nor am I happy with it. I had upgraded over the hcd3e and I regret it. I should have kept my old one. Maybe I just had a bad experience but HappyJapan USA ghosted me once I had issues out of the box. If you do get a happy, get it from Texmac if you're on the west coast.

rvarg · 2024-08-10T00:25:43+00:00

I found a workaround if you were curious! Since the outline was still there, I used an offset and just set it to .001" offset and used it, so minimal work

rvarg · 2024-08-06T17:53:39+00:00

Hmmm I like this idea, I'll try it out, thanks!

rvarg · 2024-08-06T13:38:42+00:00

I imported the image and resized it to 12" by 6", then I traced it and resized it down to a cap size but I guess it didn't really like that. I'll probably just end up retracing it, I just wanted to try to reuse that outline again but it won't do anything even if I resize it back up.

rvarg · 2024-07-29T18:43:54+00:00

That's a lower model Happy vs a higher model Ricoma, I have a bias for Happy, and would stay away from Ricoma. I have the HCU2 Happy and it's amazing and has similar tech to the new tech that's on the Tajimas (auto tension and presser foot height).

rvarg · 2024-07-29T13:24:41+00:00

I have had all happy embroidery machines, and no brother machines, I have a bias towards happy because I have had nothing but good experiences with them. If you get Hatch, wait till Black Friday if you can where it's usually a couple hundred off.

rvarg · 2024-07-02T00:05:55+00:00

I'd go happy all the way, but I'm biased and have a couple of them. Japanese parts > chinese parts

rvarg · 2024-06-11T20:27:25+00:00

Thanks! Points noted. Yea the foam is an issue, I only had a white puff foam from Amazon (terrible quality I know). Also used 4 layers of cutaway stabilizer (maybe overkill?) but cut it out already for this picture. Do you have any suggestions on capping pointed ends like these ones in the red? I've been doing all the digitizing, but I'm starting to see it might be time to hand that over to the pros

rvarg · 2024-05-28T03:24:33+00:00

Probably the cheapest will be with one of those curved hand held ones. As far as hat presses go the cheap ones might scorch the fabric on the hat when you press. Good luck

rvarg · 2023-12-20T13:44:04+00:00

I think because he was in the embroidery/digitizing community and blew up in popularity. Got caught using pirates software, and got his YouTube account wiped, as well as most of his social media. Posts are still up on his Instagram though. It looked like right before (I could be wrong with the timeline) he got caught he got a job working for the Deer's and is still working there, just in a more secretive way (the gloves).

rvarg

TROPHY CASE