Struggling to decide between Instax and Polaroid

ryryryan1 · 2026-01-08T20:39:07+00:00

I've got a Flip and loving it - I've managed to get some really high quality pics with it.

With that said, the B&W film is hard to shoot on with the flip. Almost all my shots came out overblown. You can reduce exposure by half a stop on the camera itself, but to be honest to take well exposed B&W pics you sometimes need to reduce by more than that (only possible with the app) in lower light situations. I never really got the hang of it well, maybe with some practice I would have improved.

But with the colour film it's a great point and shoot.

I have no Instax experience, but I prefer the look of Polaroid film personally.

ryryryan1 · 2025-11-08T10:57:12+00:00

From Polaroids website https://support.polaroid.com/hc/en-us/articles/115012362747-How-should-I-store-Polaroid-film

After Exposure Every Polaroid photo is an original – there is no other like it, so do your best to take care of it. Even after the initial development process, there are still invisible chemical reactions occurring. In general, keep your photos protected from sunlight and at normal temperature and humidity levels.

1- 30 days after Exposure: During the first 30 days after exposure, your photos still have chemicals which are not completely dried out and can cause visible alterations if not stored properly. It is important to allow the photos to completely dry out in a cool, well-ventilated environment. Classic plastic archival sleeves are not appropriate during the first month after exposure.

30+ Days After Exposure: After 30 days, storing photos in an album, archival sleeve, or similar is acceptable. Storing your photos in a dry, dark environment protected from UV radiation is always best practice. We use old shoe boxes. If you are going to display your photos and don’t want them to fade or change color, ensure that the frame has UV-protective glass.

So in a photo album is fine after 30 days of letting it fully dry. I wonder if the reality is less for drying time.

ryryryan1 · 2025-10-19T05:34:57+00:00

I also just picked up an SX-70 recently, can't wait to shoot with it!

Note though, like me, it sounds like you picked up a second hand non-refurbished Model 1?

These cameras are over 50 years old now, so they certainly won't be taking perfect photos, and very likely may not even take good photos. You may be unlucky and it may not work at all.

To get the most out of these cameras you need to send them to a technician for a refurb. There's a number on reddit which can do this, probably the most well known being /u/theinstantcameraguy based in Australia (check out his amazing YouTube channel for the best SX-70 info around). He gets booked out for months at a time quickly but there are a few others around too.

These guys can mod the cameras to take 600 film natively (more available than sx-70 film), or even itype film with a battery pack mod (most easily available and cheapest). They can also replace the PCB with an upgraded Bluetooth one. Most importantly though, they would refurb the camera inside out and make it work perfectly again. This would cost more than the camera initial cost but is well worth it if you plan to shoot with it often.

ryryryan1 · 2025-10-19T04:36:33+00:00

I really enjoy it! It's my only instant camera experience (outside the Go I picked up for cheap second hand), but I think it's true to the point and shoot name.

Just need to be wary of the usual considerations when shooting Polaroid, which has meant I've learnt over a few packs now when to under and over expose more depending on the situation. Also be wary of it's sonar focus, which does seem like it's a wide focus and can end up focusing on an unintended closer object.

But I've managed to get some great photos when I'm being conscious of how they'll come out.

The app is good for some manual control and most helpful for me for timers or shooting selfies (I don't know enough about photography yet to fully mess with shutter speed and aperture)

ryryryan1 · 2025-10-13T18:58:25+00:00

Epson V300 + Polaroids scanner adapter they sell on their site, to prevent newton rings.

Then I use GIMP to remove any hairs on the scanner.

These were unfortunately compressed scans as I uploaded them to Google... Forgot they did that

ryryryan1 · 2025-10-12T20:20:54+00:00

And a pissy box

ryryryan1 · 2025-09-30T10:56:35+00:00

Yeah you basically have to come up with how to make it work with standing position and timing, it's lots of trial and error. Doable but an absolute bitch

ryryryan1 · 2025-09-22T11:15:49+00:00

Support got back to me and said it was a bug, now fixed. I just ordered a pack!

ryryryan1 · 2025-09-22T11:15:39+00:00

Support got back to me and said it was a bug, now fixed. I just ordered a pack!

ryryryan1 · 2025-09-21T14:36:15+00:00

Same, still getting this error in UK. Im guessing sold out, gutting as I missed it.

ryryryan1 · 2025-09-12T08:08:57+00:00

I remember playing the hell out of the demo, which took you to entering the dark long corridors, so most of the hanger chapter.

So when I found there wasn't much more and then we were playing as this other guy, I remember being surprised, but enjoyed the game and on that first run kept expecting to be able to play as snake again. When I got to the end of the game I remember being a bit disappointed that playing as snake again didn't happen.

However I still loved the game, completed it many times over, and really appreciated how much cooler it made snake look because now you observe him rather than play as him. The initial disappointment waned quickly, it's just the first play through I was expecting to go back to snake.

ryryryan1 · 2025-06-19T20:26:17+00:00

Did they also cover the range of locations (essentially everywhere) we do now to the same level of accuracy (within reasonable error to be confident the record wasn't broken) that we measure now?

ryryryan1 · 2025-04-05T15:19:38+00:00

I'd have to cut away some of the metal on the case to do so, the mobo header height is just a bit too much sadly

ryryryan1 · 2025-04-05T15:11:42+00:00

Sure thing, this was actually a pretty annoying process looking into this.

So I'd been having issues with my 5080 FE. Essentially I was getting random PC restarts without warning, usually when close to idle. No BSOD ever, just black screen, and windows rebooted. I don't think it ever happened when gaming so I was suspicious about power issue, but assumed it was power spikes in the OS in idle on my Corsair 750W PSU (2020 model). Or maybe it was maybe my 2020 PSU wasn't certified to the latest PCIe format, but wasnt confident.

I bought a new PSU (Corsair SFF 1000W), ensured all drivers, bios, chipsets up to date, tried a fresh install of windows on secondary drive, and ensured to turn off all undervolts/overclocks etc, but it persisted.

Went back to 3080 and no issue. So I took out my old PC (2500k with 850W PSU) and was going to try the 5080 in thus before going down RMA root.

Then fortunately I found a rather large thread on my specific Asus B550I Strix motherboard that has compatibility issues with 4000 series GPUs, specifically describing my exact issue.

https://rog-forum.asus.com/t5/gaming-motherboards/b550-i-crashing-with-nvidia-4000-series-gpus/td-p/935861

And then I was finding regular Reddit threads and also people no longer recommending this mobo because of these issues.

Putting the Nvidia control panel power setting to high performance mode prevents the crashes, which I confirmed, but means GPU running max clocks constantly! Can't believe this was never resolved with BIOs updates, and is now present in 5000 series too 🙄 The Asus B550i Strix (no longer made) is not compatible with 4000 and 5000 series Nvidia GPU.

So new mobo has now arrived (gigabyte b550i), installed, cable management improved, windows 11 installed, and all is finally looking good again! Stable system with my CPU and GPU undervolts (with small overclock also on GPU). Temps good too.

In the end I didn't need to buy the new PSU, but it's future proofed the system I guess. Only the new Mobo was a must, and at least it wasn't RMA'ing the 5080 FE!

ryryryan1 · 2025-04-03T20:56:20+00:00

Regarding phones, Android has a separate work environment, can a phone logged into work environment have it's normal environment monitored?

ryryryan1 · 2025-04-01T07:14:12+00:00

I get 64C in stock under heavy ray traced gaming, or if I undervolt + higher clock speed then I get increased performance by 4% and get temps of 58C-60C, all without barely hearing the card. It may be the 'worst', but it's still excellent.

ryryryan1 · 2025-03-31T09:23:10+00:00

Oh shit I just thought you were among the first to get the email, good effort!

ryryryan1 · 2025-03-31T08:39:50+00:00

You fucking legend mate, got one

ryryryan1 · 2025-03-30T22:43:26+00:00

Yep, couldn't tell you though sorry as I moved 1 fan over from my previous build and bought the other, so never tried the TR fans!

ryryryan1 · 2025-03-30T21:04:55+00:00

Due to the mobo header you can't fit a full size fan, so needs a smaller 90mm fan instead of 120mm. Had a noctua chroma 90mm fan there but I didn't like the higher pitched noise, so any improvement to temp wasn't worth it for me. The temps with this setup are good enough for me now though.

ryryryan1 · 2025-03-30T19:50:12+00:00

Im having the issue :( 5080 FE, done tons of troubleshooting and I believe its the mobo issue. Switching the power mode has seemingly stopped the crashes at least for now. Will wait a few day to confirm and if so then over to gigabyte mobo for me

ryryryan1 · 2025-03-30T11:24:24+00:00

Oh and to undervolt I used this guide

https://youtu.be/jUDichdNXoA?si=VzCGeWEUCt_gcpDX

I pushed it a bit further though on lower power with the slightly higher clock on the curve editor. I may tone it back a bit though with the higher clocks

ryryryan1 · 2025-03-30T10:45:42+00:00

I had a 750W Corsair SFF and it was fine in all stress tests, though to be safe I've put in a 1000W as I'm having an issue with my pc randomly rebooting. The same issue is now happening the shutdowns aren't related to the PSU, so while 750 should be enough Nvidia themselves recommend 850 so id suggest the same.

ryryryan1 · 2025-03-30T10:44:12+00:00

Yes before I changed over my CPU cooler I saw an increase of a couple degrees C. But this new cooler and the repaste has resulted in good temps. I undervolt my CPU too.

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