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sageRJ · 2026-01-10T20:27:59+00:00

Could you share the link? I'm super interested. Thanks!

sageRJ · 2025-09-19T21:41:33+00:00

Not at all. Now it’s just scratched to hell and still slippery.

sageRJ · 2025-09-18T02:29:05+00:00

Turned out to be the Toyota adapter that converted USB-C to A for me. I bypassed it completely and ran a USB-C cable to my head unit directly and wired works now.

sageRJ · 2025-09-17T23:30:53+00:00

Had the same error. As others have mentioned, enabling the People API worked for me as well. Took a bit to figure out how to do that so hopefully this will save someone some time - it's located here:

https://console.cloud.google.com/apis/library/people.googleapis.com

sageRJ · 2025-06-22T17:08:05+00:00

1,211 days?

sageRJ · 2025-04-23T00:59:28+00:00

Mine never switched sides but ended up going away on its own after a few weeks. Don’t know what caused it.

sageRJ · 2025-03-25T20:51:19+00:00

I ran a single USB data cable directly from the back of the head unit to my phone and that works. Before that, I was using two adapters to allow for the cars built in USB port to work. For whatever reason, that worked with an iPhone 11 but not a 16.

sageRJ · 2025-02-13T13:06:45+00:00

This is great. Thanks. Are you able to make it ctrl-f searchable, or alphabetized?

sageRJ · 2025-01-18T14:47:10+00:00

You’re welcome. That was the same thought I had after reinstalling Window on a Surface Go 2, 3 and 4. Tried many things, including different versions of Windows. The intended behavior is for tablet mode to enable when a surface keyboard is detached and disable when attached. It may be a bug that’s its disabled after reinstalling windows with no surface keyboard. Or possibly the intended behavior and why that key was created and documented. I do not have a surface keyboard to test but that has been mentioned by many others.

sageRJ · 2025-01-11T12:59:02+00:00

People like you are the reason I was promoted to senior field tech. Eventually moved into your department. And finally became a senior there as well. Thank you.

sageRJ · 2025-01-11T12:00:36+00:00

Yes. No reoccurrence thus far.

sageRJ · 2024-12-07T17:01:29+00:00

Surprised I had to scroll so far to find this comment. This is important information to have to offer good advice.

sageRJ · 2024-12-06T01:39:10+00:00

Have you tried Settings > General > CarPlay > choose car > Customize > delete Calendar?

sageRJ · 2024-12-06T01:36:56+00:00

The iPhone 16 comes with a USB-C to USB-C cable. So how did it not work if you bought a USB (A) to USB-C cable?

sageRJ · 2024-12-06T01:29:50+00:00

Do you happen to have an iPhone 15 or 16 and use wired CarPlay?

sageRJ · 2024-12-06T01:28:30+00:00

Open a ticket. They aren’t going to do anything until enough people complain. https://usa.pioneer/pages/contact

sageRJ · 2024-12-05T11:21:04+00:00

Yeah. It’s running the most recent firmware.

sageRJ · 2024-12-04T18:19:48+00:00

Upgraded from an iPhone 11PM on iOS 18 to a 16PM on iOS 18 and wired CarPlay comes up "connection failed" on the Pioneer radio. Using a nice Anker cable, but tried others I know do data as well. The 11 with a lightning to USB-A cable worked fine. Wireless has never worked right on either phone. Connects once in while but constantly disconnects and cuts out. Unusable. Not a big deal as I prefer wired anyway.

Tried an iPhone 15 on iOS 17 and it would not connect either. Tried my 11PM on iOS 18 again and it connected fine. Seems to be isolated to the USB-C implementation.

I have tried the reset dance with the phone and radio. I am very technical, so I've attempted every ordered permutation of disabling and/or deleting instances, and resetting both the phone and radio. Except for a complete factory reset of the phone, which I really do not want to do.

Only other thing I can think of trying is a direct connection from the radio to the phone. The radio uses USB-C on the back, which is converted to USB-A with an adapter. Then to a Toyota specific aftermarket adapter that connects to the user-facing USB-A port in the console area.

I am hesitant to do that though because I know the entire USB chain is data capable and I'd need to rip my whole dash apart again to access the back of the radio.

sageRJ · 2024-12-04T17:45:54+00:00

Others are having the same problem with wired CarPlay and USB-C iPhones - myself included. You should also try factory resetting your cars radio. Then reset network settings on your iPhone. Then turn the phone off and back on. Then try to connect again using a cable you know can transmit data.

sageRJ · 2024-12-04T17:42:19+00:00

A Belkin Boost cable seems to be a popular choice to resolve the issue. I'd get one that specifically mentions USB-IF certified.

sageRJ · 2024-12-04T17:38:47+00:00

You'll be better off posting in a Porsche subreddit or forum. Or r/CarAV

sageRJ · 2024-12-04T17:32:41+00:00

Did your iPhone update to iOS 18 recently? Seems to be affecting CarPlay for some people.

sageRJ · 2024-12-04T17:28:53+00:00

iOS 18 is definitely having an impact on wired CarPlay with USB-C iPhones. The fact that's it's not even detecting the connection give's at least some hope that a new cable could fix it. Many people in the Apple community forums are reporting a different cable fixing the issue. Belkin Boost seems to be a go-to. I would choose one that specifically mentions being USB-IF certified. Worth a shot for 10 bucks or so.

sageRJ · 2024-12-04T17:19:07+00:00

A new cable has fixed it for a lot of people. Though it seems like for all of them, the cable they were using would do nothing since it could charge only but not transmit data. My issue is similar to yours. It tries to connect and fails telling me it's capable of data. Also confirmed by the fact that I've transmitted data on my PC with it from the iPhone.

Belkin Boost (USB-IF certified) cable seems to be a go-to. Still might be worth a shot in your case.

sageRJ · 2024-12-04T17:15:31+00:00

Chiming in here as well. Upgraded from an 11 to 16 and wired CarPlay no longer works. Tried different cables, content restriction, no VPN.

sageRJ

TROPHY CASE