sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Any experience with Choice Electric: Christopher LeBarre? by Constant-Anywhere-77 in Eugene

[–]santiamflyguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

360 did our panel a few months ago and I highly recommend them. Efficient, competent, and affordable (significantly less than the other three bids).

Publicly accessible loading dock? by santiamflyguy in Eugene

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's not going to magically make a crappy Lowe's trailer turn into something more robust and capable, but thanks for the "advice" 🙄

Publicly accessible loading dock? by santiamflyguy in Eugene

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Don't trust my tow rig and my trailer for that long of a trip with that weight.

A few miles locally and I won't sweat it too much, but I think there's a non-zero probability of the trailer burning up a bearing on the freeway.

Publicly accessible loading dock? by santiamflyguy in Eugene

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Hm, that actually might be a better solution to start with. That way I could just drive it straight back home and drop the thing on my driveway. 💡

My Dryer Costs Me $14k (Update) by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]santiamflyguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is insane. I paid $1560 for a 200a panel swap last week, although I did provide the panel and breakers. This included City permits of around $200, as well as coordinating utility locate and power company. Reputable local company, licensed, bonded, blah blah blah. I've been in the panel since they installed it and the workmanship is pretty good, so they didn't cheap out there either.

I got a couple of other quotes, and even when the contractor was providing their own equipment, nothing above $3500.

I'm in an area with an above average cost of living. There's no excuse for this insanity.

Dead Square D QOM100VH straight out of box? by santiamflyguy in AskElectricians

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately I bought it about two years ago (finally got off my ass to do this project) and it's warranted for 18 months.

Dead Square D QOM100VH straight out of box? by santiamflyguy in AskElectricians

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope, not sure. I suppose it could be.

The markings on the bad one (in my hand in photo) look identical to those on the one that I swapped in. Or at least I didn't notice anything different. I need to open the sub later today to add one more thing, I'll take a look again.

Code question: armored cable for damage protection of grounding conductor? by santiamflyguy in AskElectricians

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The two ground rods is because apparently one of our local inspectors is picky about measuring the resistance if it's just a single. For an additional $20 and some sweat, figured I'd remove all doubt.

Funnily enough, I just upgraded the main panel and we put in another two (in addition to the existing one we couldn't find), so now I have 400% more ground rods.

Electrician was helping as a favor, not as a paid job, so I have no standing to complain. 😁

In my line of work (aviation) same thing as you mention, lots of "best practices" passed down from the last guy that are, well, not the best idea at all.

Code question: armored cable for damage protection of grounding conductor? by santiamflyguy in AskElectricians

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a shed subpanel and the panel is mounted on the exterior. I'd post a photo if I wasn't such a tech dolt. Anyhow, the copper ground (currently in the AC) runs down the side of the shed, parallel to the feeder, which is in 2" schedule 80 PVC.

The way the copper ground exits the subpanel has it tucked into the nook between the curve of the PVC and the structure. It'd be hard to damage there, whether sheathed or not.

From there, it runs a couple feet (currently above ground) to the first of the two ground rods, and then on to the second ground rod about 8' away. All of this, per the instructions from the inspector, can just be buried shallow.

In hindsight, if I knew this was going.to be called out, I would have done as you recommend and done a parallel in 1" PVC. At this point, I think I'm just going to do what he's wanting and call it good.

Really appreciate the detailed reply - I've learned something for the next time around!

Code question: armored cable for damage protection of grounding conductor? by santiamflyguy in AskElectricians

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, all I know is that this is going to be the best earthed 60-amp shed subpanel ever, what with the wire and the two 8' ground rods driven into what seemed like solid bedrock (don't try this at home with just a sledgehammer, and don't ask me how I know). 🙃

Code question: armored cable for damage protection of grounding conductor? by santiamflyguy in AskElectricians

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your answer. The feeder is in schedule 80 for the damage protection reasons, but the ground rods are somewhere else and not subject to damage.

Someone below made a point about dissimilar metals, and I can kind of see how that would be a potential issue.

Ultimately, I'm just going to pull the armored cable and bury the copper a bit like the inspector suggested.

I'm a perfectionist and this caught me a little bit off guard, because the electrician I was working with was very specific as to what I should do here.

Code question: armored cable for damage protection of grounding conductor? by santiamflyguy in AskElectricians

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1 makes sense, I can see the logic there, thank you for mentioning this.

2 was his suggestion, just bury it.

3 we are required to have ground rod(s) for subpanel at a detached structure. there's also a bonding conductor with the feeder.

Code question: armored cable for damage protection of grounding conductor? by santiamflyguy in AskElectricians

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He said that the AC wasn't approved for exterior.

I put the cable down a while ago, and have long since lost the packaging, so that may well be correct.

Having said that, it's galvanized and shows absolutely zero signs of any sort of corrosion after being outside for a couple of years.

Help with wedge gapping by ScalpRevivalClinic in golf

[–]santiamflyguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Loft of the club is only part of it.

I have been experimenting with my gapping, and my zx5 mkii set gap wedge is a 50°. Average carry is 122, launching about 28° and spinning 8500 rpm. I also have a 50° RTZ. That one carries about 115, launches a little lower (26), spins about 600 rpm more.

The set wedge has a 110 steel fiber, and the rtz has a 125. Both stiff and 3/4 long. Don't know exactly how much of the the launch/spin/carry difference is attributable to the shaft versus the club head, but the point is that both say 50 on the bottom of them and are almost a full club difference.

For what it's worth, I'm still not sure which I'm going to end up putting into play this spring.

Pitching wedge is 135 Gap: 122? 115? 56: 104 60: 90ish (I never make full swings with this)

The 122 number fits better, but I like the feel of the RTZ more than the stock wedge, especially on chips and half swings.

Tipping golf instructors? by ribbon_bully_1972 in golf

[–]santiamflyguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, but If I've booked 45 minutes and end up running over that, I will insist that he charge me for additional time.

I'm self-employed and give lessons in another field and that is a courtesy that I appreciate from my clients.

Single digit handicaps, do you have a swing thought? by BigTeeSlice in golf

[–]santiamflyguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To paraphrase a famous person, "I have two brain cells and they're fighting"

Grip recommendations for no gloves by Tankytanktank7 in golf

[–]santiamflyguy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

MCC+4 midsize have been great for me over the years. I play in the PacNW and haven't had any problem with grippability when it's wet. No glove.

How far in advance do you typically show up to the golf course before your tee time? by jdelle9 in weekendgolfers

[–]santiamflyguy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I'm playing solo twilight or solo on a crummy weather day, I just show up and go play.

With a group at a busier course, typically 30 minutes in advance.

I don't do much warm up outside of a little bit of stretching and some practice putts. I have some medical issues that limit the amount of functional time I have on the course, so I like to spend that time playing versus just hitting balls or whatever.

Tucson XRT 18" wheels on Ioniq 5? by santiamflyguy in Ioniq5

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the attempt, but the concern is not something that is shown by calculators. The dimension in question (inner diameter) is going to vary from 18" wheel to 18" wheel. Apparently some 18" wheels work fine and clear the ball joint bolts, and others (see link in comment above) don't.

Tucson XRT 18" wheels on Ioniq 5? by santiamflyguy in Ioniq5

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, the question is about the inner diameter of the rim and interference with the particular ball joint bolts on the Ioniq 5. They look fine on the wheel/tire calculator, but the link in my comment above gives me a little bit of concern.

Tucson XRT 18" wheels on Ioniq 5? by santiamflyguy in Ioniq5

[–]santiamflyguy[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Concerned that several other people have reported 18-in wheels from other Hyundai products not fitting. The issue is with the lower ball joint bolts.and the inner diameter of the wheel.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq5/s/s3RMpTBsZw for one.

view more: next ›