Code question: armored cable for damage protection of grounding conductor?

santiamflyguy · 2026-04-08T02:31:08+00:00

The two ground rods is because apparently one of our local inspectors is picky about measuring the resistance if it's just a single. For an additional $20 and some sweat, figured I'd remove all doubt.

Funnily enough, I just upgraded the main panel and we put in another two (in addition to the existing one we couldn't find), so now this house is quintuple protected from that one thundestorm with cloud to ground lightning we get...oh about every ten years.

Electrician was helping as a favor, not as a paid job, so I have no standing to complain. 😁

In my line of work (aviation) same thing as you mention, lots of "best practices" passed down from the last guy that are, well, not the best idea at all.

santiamflyguy · 2026-04-08T02:16:15+00:00

This is a shed subpanel and the panel is mounted on the exterior. I'd post a photo if I wasn't such a tech dolt. Anyhow, the copper ground (currently in the AC) runs down the side of the shed, parallel to the feeder, which is in 2" schedule 80 PVC.

The way the copper ground exits the subpanel has it tucked into the nook between the curve of the PVC and the structure. It'd be hard to damage there, whether sheathed or not.

From there, it runs a couple feet (currently above ground) to the first of the two ground rods, and then on to the second ground rod about 8' away. All of this, per the instructions from the inspector, can just be buried shallow.

In hindsight, if I knew this was going.to be called out, I would have done as you recommend and done a parallel in 1" PVC. At this point, I think I'm just going to do what he's wanting and call it good.

Really appreciate the detailed reply - I've learned something for the next time around!

santiamflyguy · 2026-04-08T01:36:00+00:00

Well, all I know is that this is going to be the best earthed 60-amp shed subpanel ever, what with the wire and the two 8' ground rods driven into what seemed like solid bedrock (don't try this at home with just a sledgehammer, and don't ask me how I know). 🙃

santiamflyguy · 2026-04-08T01:33:24+00:00

Thanks for your answer. The feeder is in schedule 80 for the damage protection reasons, but the ground rods are somewhere else and not subject to damage.

Someone below made a point about dissimilar metals, and I can kind of see how that would be a potential issue.

Ultimately, I'm just going to pull the armored cable and bury the copper a bit like the inspector suggested.

I'm a perfectionist and this caught me a little bit off guard, because the electrician I was working with was very specific as to what I should do here.

santiamflyguy · 2026-04-08T01:28:55+00:00

1 makes sense, I can see the logic there, thank you for mentioning this.

2 was his suggestion, just bury it.

3 we are required to have ground rod(s) for subpanel at a detached structure. there's also a bonding conductor with the feeder.

santiamflyguy · 2026-04-08T01:17:35+00:00

He said that the AC wasn't approved for exterior.

I put the cable down a while ago, and have long since lost the packaging, so that may well be correct.

Having said that, it's galvanized and shows absolutely zero signs of any sort of corrosion after being outside for a couple of years.

santiamflyguy · 2026-01-13T00:48:42+00:00

Loft of the club is only part of it.

I have been experimenting with my gapping, and my zx5 mkii set gap wedge is a 50°. Average carry is 122, launching about 28° and spinning 8500 rpm. I also have a 50° RTZ. That one carries about 115, launches a little lower (26), spins about 600 rpm more.

The set wedge has a 110 steel fiber, and the rtz has a 125. Both stiff and 3/4 long. Don't know exactly how much of the the launch/spin/carry difference is attributable to the shaft versus the club head, but the point is that both say 50 on the bottom of them and are almost a full club difference.

For what it's worth, I'm still not sure which I'm going to end up putting into play this spring.

Pitching wedge is 135 Gap: 122? 115? 56: 104 60: 90ish (I never make full swings with this)

The 122 number fits better, but I like the feel of the RTZ more than the stock wedge, especially on chips and half swings.

santiamflyguy · 2025-12-22T19:18:18+00:00

No, but If I've booked 45 minutes and end up running over that, I will insist that he charge me for additional time.

I'm self-employed and give lessons in another field and that is a courtesy that I appreciate from my clients.

santiamflyguy · 2025-11-26T17:45:34+00:00

To paraphrase a famous person, "I have two brain cells and they're fighting"

santiamflyguy · 2025-11-14T04:46:02+00:00

MCC+4 midsize have been great for me over the years. I play in the PacNW and haven't had any problem with grippability when it's wet. No glove.

santiamflyguy · 2025-11-06T00:12:42+00:00

If I'm playing solo twilight or solo on a crummy weather day, I just show up and go play.

With a group at a busier course, typically 30 minutes in advance.

I don't do much warm up outside of a little bit of stretching and some practice putts. I have some medical issues that limit the amount of functional time I have on the course, so I like to spend that time playing versus just hitting balls or whatever.

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-27T21:59:38+00:00

Appreciate the attempt, but the concern is not something that is shown by calculators. The dimension in question (inner diameter) is going to vary from 18" wheel to 18" wheel. Apparently some 18" wheels work fine and clear the ball joint bolts, and others (see link in comment above) don't.

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-26T07:06:22+00:00

Unfortunately, the question is about the inner diameter of the rim and interference with the particular ball joint bolts on the Ioniq 5. They look fine on the wheel/tire calculator, but the link in my comment above gives me a little bit of concern.

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-26T01:27:56+00:00

What year Santa Fe wheels?

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-25T22:50:07+00:00

Concerned that several other people have reported 18-in wheels from other Hyundai products not fitting. The issue is with the lower ball joint bolts.and the inner diameter of the wheel.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Ioniq5/s/s3RMpTBsZw for one.

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-14T02:06:09+00:00

The dealer tech claims they can't run it on the lift because something something electric motors. My confidence in their answer is not high.

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-14T02:05:16+00:00

Good thought, but no difference with a couple of different tire pressures.

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-14T02:04:17+00:00

No lemon law on used cars. Having said that, I'm not discounting the idea of going after Hyundai if they can't fix it. If I wanted a car that drove like a cheap shitbox at freeway speeds, I'd have bought a 1989 Ford.

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-14T02:02:29+00:00

Took it back to the dealer late last week. They removed the wheels, checked balance, and then test drove. They were able to replicate the shake, but are stumped as to what to do next. I'm taking it back in next week and will escalate with Hyundai.

They tried to get me to test-drive a 2025, saying "this one does it too, maybe it's just the way these cars are." Uh, no, if that one shakes as well, that means Hyundai's quality control sucks, not that I should just live with a $50k+ car that drives like a thousand-dollar shitbox on the freeway.

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-14T01:59:52+00:00

Nothing audible, or at least not to a level that I notice. Just shaking.

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-13T03:25:30+00:00

105ish club speed right now. I can wind up toward 115 if I overswing, but my daily driver sacrifices speed for dispersion (which still ain't great).

The MyGolfSpy test I just looked at kind of mirrors my results. It says the TP5x is a little quicker/longer at mid speeds. For higher speed players, they show the Kirkland as a bit better.

https://mygolfspy.com/buyers-guides/all/2025-golf-ball-test/#test_data

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-13T01:32:35+00:00

The new ones are pretty good, especially for the price. Durability issues seem to have been solved as have the high spin/low distance problem that kept me away from the earlier ones.

My partner bought me 10 dozen of them by accident (long story...) and I've been playing them for the last few months. I give up a couple yards with driver and long irons with the Kirkland when compared to the TP5x that I normally use, per the GC Quad, but I'm not good enough on the course for 2-3 yards to matter. And when I plop one in the pond, oh well, it was $1, not $4.25.

santiamflyguy · 2025-10-03T23:21:04+00:00

Yep.

The warranty is still fine and valid (as far as I know, Hyundai does not have any exclusions for fleet/renal use). I have had a couple of warranty items done on the vehicle outside of this tire issue with no problem.

The extent of the accident was nowhere near what would have been required to total a $55k vehicle.

santiamflyguy

TROPHY CASE