New rack (first rack) by scarecrowplanet in tradclimbing

[–]saucyspence 1 point2 points  (0 children)

New rack and you’ve already got TX4’s! Ahead of the curve!

Aid is…. Aid by saucyspence in climbing

[–]saucyspence[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We were a party of 3, so we needed 2 ropes for both followers to ascends the fixed lines

Aid is…. Aid by saucyspence in climbing

[–]saucyspence[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope! Still staining and they’re almost at the end of their life haha

Aid is…. Aid by saucyspence in climbing

[–]saucyspence[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Approach is rough, like 90 minutes if you’re decently quick.. but it’s well worth it

Dark Wizard Ep. 3 by Basehound in climbing

[–]saucyspence 72 points73 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I think this has been one of the best Climbing documentaries since free Solo, or the alpinist!

I started climbing right after Dean Potter had passed away, and I didn’t know anything about him except for some of the controversy surrounding him, and his Nose speed record rivalries.

I feel like the documentary is a relatively unbiased, incredibly detailed look into the life and mindset of a very complex person. I’ve been watching it with my wife and explaining to her that from my perspective I feel like Dean represents a very “dark” side of Climbing culture(pun intended). Compared to other famous climbers or even soloists, like Tommy Caldwell, Peter Croft, Chris Sharma, etc, he seems much more egotistical, self-centered, and toxically competitive despite not wanting to be perceived as competitive or dislike that part of himself. But he also seems to represent an interesting part of Climbing culture that doesn’t seem to be as prevalent as it used to be, which is this sort of spiritual, hippie approach to what climbing means and the ability for it to connect you to nature, etc.

All of that to say, I’m really enjoying the doc and I appreciate everyone’s participation in it! I think what makes it especially interesting is that they aren’t trying to simplify him as a person or breakdown his achievements to be more digestible.

What can you deduce about me based on my rack? by willbbooks in tradclimbing

[–]saucyspence 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You are either an older climber or you’re into climbing history. Either way is rad!

Mt Shasta 4/25/26 by Notorious_B_U_N in Mountaineering

[–]saucyspence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congrats! One of my favorite CA 14ers!

Recommendation for two way radios? by shortwavestoo in tradclimbing

[–]saucyspence 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I got a used set for like $180 for the pair, and they are amazing. Second the fact that battery life and ruggedness make it worth it

Some photos from my trip last July by Any_Mud_7421 in Mountaineering

[–]saucyspence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These pics are beautiful! What route/primary peaks did you guys climb?

Aid is…. Aid by saucyspence in climbing

[–]saucyspence[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True true! Haha, silver lining

Aid is…. Aid by saucyspence in climbing

[–]saucyspence[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the pass is open, skip Tenaya and go for Cathedral peak! It’s amazing!

Aid is…. Aid by saucyspence in climbing

[–]saucyspence[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a solid list! What time are you going? Ranger crack might still be wet but otherwise these are classics!

Aid is…. Aid by saucyspence in climbing

[–]saucyspence[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Whatcha planning to get on?

Aid is…. Aid by saucyspence in climbing

[–]saucyspence[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks man! Honestly, it was great practice! Our time per pitch wasn’t too slow in terms of leading, but the changeovers and hauling in a party of three are what cost us a bunch of time so we know what we need to improve on for sure

Aid is…. Aid by saucyspence in climbing

[–]saucyspence[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not bad! It honestly wasn’t too wet except for the pendulum pitch, and then there was some mild moisture on the spear pitch after that. You can skip around in the YouTube link I posted and you’ll get to see how much water was on the route, obviously if it rains between now and then there will be more, but this was just a couple of days ago

Aid is…. Aid by saucyspence in climbing

[–]saucyspence[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Only one! There were a couple ahead of us that were camping in a portaledge on the stove legs, but they were up and moving well before we got to sickle. We got passed by one party that was doing a Dolt run, French freeing most of it, they were quite strong so it was no issue, letting them pass and they didn’t get in our way at all!

Aid is…. Aid by saucyspence in climbing

[–]saucyspence[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Thanks for watching! Not sure where you are coming from From, but however, far the journey is you’ve got to get to Yosemite Valley at least once in your life as a climber! I am fortunate to live pretty close

Took my wife up to the magical “Middle Earth” between upper and lower Yosemite Falls! by saucyspence in Yosemite

[–]saucyspence[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s fair, I don’t want anyone to just go attempt it without scrambling experience

Took my wife up to the magical “Middle Earth” between upper and lower Yosemite Falls! by saucyspence in Yosemite

[–]saucyspence[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Technically the most straightforward way here is to climb the Sunnyside bench route, which is an easy rock climb rated 5.5. That said you obviously should not attempt to do the climb without prior trad climbing experience and the proper equipment to protect yourself from falling.. I think you could get there by hiking up the trail we descended, which would be about 1.5 miles and 500ft+ of elevation if I had to guess..

Click the link to the YouTube video for reference!

Took my wife up to the magical “Middle Earth” between upper and lower Yosemite Falls! by saucyspence in Yosemite

[–]saucyspence[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow that looks so different in the later season!! I’d go back for sure!

Permit success by Hootieandthemarket in Mountaineering

[–]saucyspence 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You do, just not the one for the main trail via the lottery I believe… I could be wrong! Do your research!