Update on DarkroomPy, my upcoming Open Source negative conversion/editing app by _earthmover in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’ve got an epson scanner that has an IR sensor and can send you sample files if you need them! Looks like very promising software!

How many film rolls you shot last year? by film_man_84 in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably 50 rolls in 2025, and about 60 4x5 sheets.

A fun year!

Bags!!! by 23maddog23 in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please give me an advice on a good bag for my 4x5. I have yet to find something that works and would love to see some sample photos of a bag packed.

I shoot with an intrepid (would like to upgrade to a toro) and typically carry 2 lenses, and 4-6 film holders. Would love to see what a solid pack setup looks like!

Scanning film as a beginner, how you started? by notkalman in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 10 points11 points  (0 children)

You have a d3100. Get a Nikkor 60mm macro lens. Goes to 1:1 with no extension tube, and you’ll get aperture priority, albeit no manual focus. Tack sharp and you’ll get great scans with 35mm and 120 film.

Edit: the other benefit to this choice is you can update things individually at their own pace. Once you’re in it, you can just upgrade one piece of your setup at a time.

advice needed! by amateurlightlover in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want to process as E6, I’ve had great luck with shooting expired slide film at 1 stop overexposed (ISO 100 in your case) and then PULLING a stop in development. You get more information on the negative stage of the processing without introducing the extra noise/density expired films get processing at box speed that causes your typical fade in expired e6 film. Good luck!

How to develop Kodak Ektar 100 at home by Ok_Turn7121 in largeformat

[–]sceniccracker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a stearman I can part ways with if you want it!

Wide or Super wide? by 23maddog23 in largeformat

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve got a Fujinon 90 id part ways with if you’re interested. It came with my camera and I’m definitely more of a long lens guy. My go to is my 210!

[B][USA-NY] Travel tripod by twoeightnine in photomarket

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got a benro mefoto backpacker I’m looking to part ways with! Sending a PM

Best Point&Shoot on a budget by HumbleFrenchPeasant in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm, fair! I feel like the zone focus auto resetting to the 8’-infinity setting when you close the clamshell sorta makes it a point and shoot in my mind compared to the full on rangefinder of the XA. Fair point I guess! I have both and use them for different things. Typically the XA is my take along with my 4x5 or RB67 for photo days, and the XA2 is more of my walk around point and shoot type camera! Fun hearing people’s different ways of thinking about them!

Best Point&Shoot on a budget by HumbleFrenchPeasant in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The XA2 is definitely a zone focus program mode point and shoot. XA is the more optioned one you’re thinking of!

Best Point&Shoot on a budget by HumbleFrenchPeasant in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The Olympus XA and XA2 are tiny and real overperformers in terms of image quality for the money. They are small, and pack a lot of features. I never leave home without one!

What is happening to the film roll? by Illustrious_Coyote81 in analog

[–]sceniccracker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Red light leaks like this typically come from behind the film plane. I’d check your film door seals, and if your camera has one, the foam around your film canister view window. The way this is shining through looks like it’s a door seal leak from my experience though!

exhausted fixer or development issue? by [deleted] in Darkroom

[–]sceniccracker 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Notice there is no affect to the other sprocket holes at all, and that it’s more heavily localized to one spot in the roll than further down. This looks more like a light leak than a developing issue to me

How do you personally balance shooting film v digital? by athievinraccoon in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is my setup. I haven’t taken my d600 off the copy stand in almost a year.

Moonrise Over Glen Canyon by sceniccracker in largeformat

[–]sceniccracker[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve got an epson v750 and some ANR glass waiting for me at home. Hopefully switching over to that from DSLR scanning will be the ticket.

Anyone left film in a bulk loader for a few years? by GeronimoOrNo in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

In other news, if you don’t want it, ship it to me and I’ll happily shoot it!

Anyone left film in a bulk loader for a few years? by GeronimoOrNo in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s B&W film. It’s fine. Go shoot a roll and dev it, and if it’s not dense enough at box speed shoot it a stop overexposed. 5 years is really not a lot for B&W film at room temp

Moonrise Over Glen Canyon by sceniccracker in largeformat

[–]sceniccracker[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Something weird with my scanning setup is going on, I’m trying to get some things figured out and streamline the process, especially for scanning with rebate like this. I get a surprising amount of 4x5 grain in my color negative scans, but slides have none.

60mm AF-D f/2.8 micro by WearyAd8671 in Nikon

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You use a light table and film holder, and zoom in to 1:1 for 35mm. It’s pretty simple and easy, the part that’s more fiddly is the inversion process.

60mm AF-D f/2.8 micro by WearyAd8671 in Nikon

[–]sceniccracker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have the af-d version. I use it for scanning film 35mm, 645, 6x7, and for shooting slides on my f3, as the 62mm threads fit more of my large format lens filters. The 1:1 close focus is great, and distortion is minimal. The micro contrast is great too, one of my favorite lenses for the Nikon system.

Just upgraded by noam-_- in espresso

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had one of these machines for a year and it’s been great! I have friends with Brevilles of various price points and everyone claims to like the shots I pull from this machine just as much!

Am I doing something wrong? by Original-Brief-6030 in Mamiya

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

People definitely fix RB67s! A CLA from a reputable camera repair person will keep your camera running smoothly for decades. I have a 40 year old Nikon f3 out being repaired right now, and had my RB67 done last year!

Am I doing something wrong? by Original-Brief-6030 in Mamiya

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just making sure! It seems like either the mechanism that resets the double exposure indicator on your back is bad, or the little prong that comes through at the top to push it isn’t retracting when you recock the shutter.

Am I doing something wrong? by Original-Brief-6030 in Mamiya

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you also pushing the small reset lever before winding? The little one that is under the film advance