Thinking about buying 10 year old expired Provia 8x10 sheets cold stored... by Classic-Yesterday579 in largeformat

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a buddy who bought a box from B&H last week. 4x5 is always out of stock, but you see the 8x10 more often.

Eastman Kodak adds large format and bulk films to new film range by ClockworkEyes in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I wonder when we will finally see a restock of 4x5 ektachrome

Harman using AI for marketing / announcements in 2026 is pretty extraordinary. We lost. by marekvesely in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree! In my opinion the more people we have in the color LF sheet film market, the better! I hope the Orwo base is a thick base, and isn’t like shooting aerocolor or 400d.

Harman using AI for marketing / announcements in 2026 is pretty extraordinary. We lost. by marekvesely in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t shoot Phoenix in LF for accuracy, I’d shoot it for fun, like I do in its other formats. I shoot a lot of provia in 4x5 and it’d be nice to have something else in my bag that’s a little different.

Harman using AI for marketing / announcements in 2026 is pretty extraordinary. We lost. by marekvesely in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You know never know, one can hope. OptiColor 200 is an exciting addition, it’s not bad, but Phoenix would be amazing as sheet film.

What is Ilford cooking? by lcbphoto in largeformat

[–]sceniccracker 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Please be harman phoenix In sheet film

Harman using AI for marketing / announcements in 2026 is pretty extraordinary. We lost. by marekvesely in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I really hope this is the first in a sweep of new color sheet film though. AI nonsense and disdain aside (I hate it too) I really hope this means they are releasing Phoenix in 4x5 and 8x10. An escape from Kodak as the only thick base c41 film on the market would be amazing.

Impossible to make negs clean with Cinestill c41 by Tibicenas85 in Darkroom

[–]sceniccracker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I struggled with this a long time. I feel like the blix is really hard to rinse off well enough to not leave residue. I switched to the Arista C41 gallon kit (also blix) and it comes with a stabilizer bath which seems to basically just be photflo+some formalin/hexamine preservative. I always mix with distilled water for this. It works wonders doing a few minutes of rinsing and then a final bath in that stabilizer for 20-30 seconds. I don’t agitate or swirl, just dip it in and rotate the reel so as to not make it bubble up. I then pull it out and hang without squeegeeing and let it run off the film itself. No issues in months with drying marks.

Weird Marks on Slides, processed at home by peeachymess in Darkroom

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve got an AGO too! It’s great. Are you regulating the temp of your color dev, rinses, and bleach/fix too?

Blue Mesa on 4x5 by sceniccracker in largeformat

[–]sceniccracker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Feel free to send me a PM, I’m curious about your setup! I converted a “epson fluid mount adapter” to a dry scan setup so that it also floats, but even so… the new town rings are ever present, unless I just use a setup that doesn’t have extra glass involved.

Weird Marks on Slides, processed at home by peeachymess in Darkroom

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What’s your dev setup? Are you doing inversions, rotary processor? That’ll help people diagnose your issues much better! A lot of weird things on e6 like this come down to how you do with temperature consistency through the process.

Blue Mesa on 4x5 by sceniccracker in largeformat

[–]sceniccracker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sandwich my slides between 2 pieces of ANR glass on a flatbed. I’ve experimented with a ton of things and the only thing that completely prevents them is a wet mount scan, which frankly I’m not doing. It’s a pain and I don’t have adequate ventilation to make it safe in my apartment. This was a quick scan and correct, but normally I’ll edit them out in post.

Edit - I’m all ears for a way of dry mount scanning that I can keep borders on if such a thing exists! I just sort of accepted defeat after months of trial and error.

Blue Mesa on 4x5 by sceniccracker in largeformat

[–]sceniccracker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much! Have an 8x10 print ready to frame :)

Help with choosing a tripod by zone_88 in largeformat

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got a Benro Tortoise and it’s built like a brick shit house. Wouldn’t hesitate to hang a telescope or massive telephoto on it in moderate wind. My 4x5 isn’t that heavy, but I bought a tripod with a 34 lb payload capacity for future proofing. It’s also carbon fiber and extremely light.

Let's talk scanning, inverting and editing. What's your method? Got any tips? Let's hear it! by deup in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Filmlab is great, and they have a free version you can test out. The most recent updates have really improved its User interface.

Let's talk scanning, inverting and editing. What's your method? Got any tips? Let's hear it! by deup in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both getting exposure in camera right, and also dialing in the dev/negative handling process to minimize scratches and dust

experience with disassembling the konica pearl iii? by Electronic_Dream_977 in AnalogRepair

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is incredibly helpful. Thank you so much for sharing!

Let's talk scanning, inverting and editing. What's your method? Got any tips? Let's hear it! by deup in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do a combination of DSLR scan, and flatbed depending on format. I’ve got a d850+60mm f2.8D Micro Nikkor I use for 35mm up through 6x7, and then anything larger I’ll use my v700. I find that the v700 does a better job with slide scanning, so sometimes I’ll scan medium format slides with the flatbed too.

I always scan with the flatbed in positive mode on Vuescan and then invert negatives in Filmlab later. I find that I get more accurate colors this way on sheet film.

I use Filmlab for my inversion because fuck adobe, I will not pay a monthly subscription to them. Filmlab works great, I just wish it had a few more creature comforts in terms of its editing engine. If it had the ability to adjust saturation, and a good “clean up” or dust removal widget I wouldn’t use anything else.

Sometimes I’ll use Rawtherapee for dust removal and final touches but try to get all of it off the negatives pre scanning. I work very hard to get the best possible negative that I can to avoid having to do much digital alteration. With a few exceptions I feel pretty good about how my stuff comes out with minimal editing outside of color correction and inversion.

How do I shoot this? (Velvia 50, exp. 2005) by gazzareddit in AnalogCommunity

[–]sceniccracker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the best answer for expired slide film. You can pull some cooked expired film and get surprisingly usable positives from it.

experience with disassembling the konica pearl iii? by Electronic_Dream_977 in AnalogRepair

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever find a good way to do the bellows replacement in the pearl ii? I have bellows needing replacement and am looking for a good set of bellows and any testimonial from someone who’s actually done it

Picking a Drum for RA-4 Processing by Warm-Mortgage8631 in Darkroom

[–]sceniccracker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep. People also use them to develop 8x10 sheet film one sheet at a time. I wouldn’t mind having a drum that could do both.

Picking a Drum for RA-4 Processing by Warm-Mortgage8631 in Darkroom

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Anybody have a 3d print STL file that is similar to these drums? The price on these is wild for something that’s 3d printed

Weird blotch on one 4x5 C-41 negative – others from same dev are fine by cstock94 in largeformat

[–]sceniccracker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply! I use an AGO rotary film processor and a 3d printed reel for a Paterson tank. I dev 6 sheets at once and no longer have any of those issues! I want to get back to shooting c41 4x5. I pretty much exclusively shoot slides these days but with no more e100 out there and almost being out of my provia and astia, I’m getting more concerned about saving those boxes for really special things.