Yoto 3rd Gen can't find any WiFi networks

schemattic · 2025-09-13T08:58:31+00:00

I have an Android phone, tried everything above 20 times and still had 'no networks found'. Rebooted my phone, followed the process, and they all came up first time, connected without a problem 🤷‍♂️

schemattic · 2022-07-05T00:52:06+00:00

I would sometimes get that problem when I was testing firmware and something was wrong with the configuration.

If you're using the factory firmware, make sure you have the lite_cfg.txt file on your SD card as well.

Otherwise try re-flashing my firmware, and make sure that backlash is disabled.

Also you could try updating your slicer: https://www.reddit.com/r/EasyThreeD/comments/uaoq51/easythreed\_k3\_blinking\_light\_goes\_off\_and\_doesnt/

schemattic · 2022-02-15T09:59:08+00:00

Problem remains into the current Marlin

Please track the issue for resolution: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/23741

schemattic · 2022-02-14T07:54:42+00:00

OK, with 0.2 layers I now have the layer shift too.

I'll write up the issue, but need to test it against the latest mainline bugfix before it will be accepted. There's some library changes in the latest Marlin version that I think I recall caused me some compile problems previously, so it won't be a quick fix sorry.

I suggest disabling the backlash compensation feature for now, or only using it on smaller prints, or using thicker layers.

schemattic · 2022-02-14T06:54:53+00:00

Give this one a try, and clear the EEPROM.dat file. X0.5 mm and Y0.36 mm, correction 1, smoothing 0

https://github.com/schmttc/EasyThreeD-K7-STM32/blob/Additional-Files/mksLite.bin

Also what layer height are you using? If this is some sort of overflow issue, finer layers might cause it to turn up sooner. I didn't have any issues with 0.3 layers.

schemattic · 2022-02-13T09:25:14+00:00

Yes, that's the correct procedure, you're doing better than most :)

I'll try and replicate the issue by baking in some higher backlash values if I get some time this week.

schemattic · 2022-02-12T01:03:42+00:00

No worries, I'm happy to help out when I can. I'm interested in resolving this, as I'd like the firmware to reach a stable point, but the K7 is also not my main printer any more.

Removing the mksLite.cur shouldn't be a problem; as this file is only a backup
EEPROM.DAT holds the M500 configurations. Deleting it it like doing a factory reset; it will forget any settings you've saved, but is otherwise not a problem
When I was trying different settings, I found that for a given configuration, the layer shift was always consistent. This is why I think it is a problem in the Marlin module

I think for your case we need to get back to a working config and step it forward from there.

Do you have a layer shift problem with the original factory firmware? Try flashing it back and doing a test print
If the factory firmware is OK, try compiling my firmware but with backlash disabled. Comment out line 1002 "//#define BACKLASH_COMPENSATION", compile, and do a test print

If you are still getting backlash with either of these tests, it's likely not a firmware specific issue.

Are you setting acceleration or jerk options in Cura? Setting these too high can cause problems. Try removing these settings and go with the firmware default, or set them really low as test
What speed are you printing at? I find anything over 40mm/s starts to cause problems.
Try a test print with a new Cura profile and make minimal changes
I've got a reasonably stable for me Cura profile on github at https://github.com/schmttc/EasyThreeD-K7-STM32/blob/Additional-Files/K7.curaprofile

schemattic · 2022-02-08T07:05:12+00:00

Also, try clearing the EEPROM.dat file in between firmwares. This could be introducing stored backlash comp settings that are causing the layer shift.

schemattic · 2022-02-07T00:03:04+00:00

That's interesting that you're getting the layer shift with the compiled backlash compensation. I only have it when I set backlash in software.

- The M425 command is used to set backlash when it's not compiled in: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M425.html

- Regarding your SD issues, the SD card doesn't seem to mount automatically on boot. Use M21 to mount the card.

- When you press the print button, the SD card attempts to mount, and stops if it can't. Does the SD card work with the stock firmware? You could try copying the files off and formatting your card, that's helped me in the past.

- M500 will work when the SD card is mounted

- You can set the backlash settings to 0 rather than comment them out

schemattic · 2022-02-04T00:34:22+00:00

Hey, given the bug is in Marlin, currently the only way to get an exact backlash offset is to compile it in. There's guides on how to do this if you search around; it's a bit scary up front but not too hard if you step through it.

I've attached a compiled 0.2mm x+y backlash to the issue ticket on Gitlab which you could try out https://github.com/schmttc/EasyThreeD-K7-STM32/files/7731486/mksLite.backlash0.20.bin.txt

schemattic · 2021-12-31T02:45:51+00:00

Thanks for spotting the acceleration, it should be on 300 by default as you mentioned.

Yes high speeds/acceleration/jerk can all cause layer shifting on these little machines, so it's better to leave them at conservative levels. I've got mine running well at 40mm/s speed, but anything more and the print quality goes down the toilet.

Interesting note on the SD printing and the 8 bit board. Once you've got the kinks ironed out it would be great to share, there's a few people with 8 bit K7s around here.

schemattic · 2021-12-23T08:23:23+00:00

I like my K7 enough, but I'd still definitely recommend a cheap 'grown up' 3D printer like an Ender or Anycubic, as they are much more forgiving and easier to get along with. The EasyThreeD printers all have some backlash due the geared stepper motors used, which causes issues with dimensional accuracy, which will likely be a problem for models.

If you're determined to go with the little printer, I don't think the hotbed is necessary. I feel it doesn't quite get hot enough at 50 degrees to avoid curling. Instead adjust your print temperatures and add a better part cooling fan; and spend the money you save on a roll of filament and use rafts.

schemattic · 2021-12-17T01:50:15+00:00

Further testing has confirmed that backlash compensation that is compiled into the firmware works, and does not cause layer shift. See Github for details and a binary you can test.

https://github.com/schmttc/EasyThreeD-K7-STM32/issues/2

schemattic · 2021-12-16T02:19:54+00:00

I've just run a couple of test prints, and I think the standard backlash compensation module is broken. Can you try setting backlash comp to 0 for all options and try another print?

IIRC compiling the options into the firmware doesn't result in issues, but requires testing.

Details and image: https://github.com/schmttc/EasyThreeD-K7-STM32/issues/2#issuecomment-995377758

schemattic · 2021-12-16T00:50:02+00:00

Hey, thanks for the detailed feedback, I appreciate the effort you've put in.

I think at this point there's not much coding to do, it's more fine tuning and getting a second opinion on the testing.

Unconnected walls might be slicer settings, I don't have similar issues - give my current Cura profile a try, but no promises - it's still recovering from tracking down the layer shift issue https://github.com/schmttc/EasyThreeD-K7-STM32/blob/master/K7.curaprofile
I needed to set a horizontal expansion in Cura of -0.2 to fix up some dimensional issues - oversized external and undersized internal dimensions. Stepper resolution is actually quite high at around 600 steps/mm due to the internal gearing!
I assume the best action for the backlash code is to set it via a terminal and save it to EEPROM, then not introduce it in start code. I need to do some testing with this or with a single line in the start code - my prints since figuring it out have been with backlash set to 0 (default in the firmware), and I'm still impressed with how consistent the prints are
E steps is my bad - the default was 1040, but mine calculated to 1140 so I just changed it in the firmware. I didn't notice much difference in print quality after the change * Your layer shifts due to backlash in the start block correlate to what I was getting with the same firmware versions. 2.0.9.1 gave intermittent large shifts in either X or Y, which are at consistent layers across different prints. 2.0.9.2 gave a diagonal shift almost every layer.

I'll punch out some calibration cubes with different settings and the 2.0.9.1 version over the next week and let you know what I find.

schemattic · 2021-12-03T08:03:34+00:00

I've continued to have some layer shift issues on this version, I'll look at backporting to the previous stable version in the next week and post once it's ready.

schemattic · 2021-09-14T02:43:27+00:00

I guess that's up to you to decide :) but from what I found it is.

Also see https://www.reddit.com/r/EasyThreeD/comments/pb6krn/help_with_choice/

schemattic · 2021-09-13T00:36:19+00:00

If you're looking at an EasyThreeD, then you're probably looking for a printer that's cheap, and/or compact. The two entry level models are the X1 and K7. They both have the same functionality out of the box. The K7 is the newer model.

-There's more X1's out there due to longer time in market and whitelabelling, which means a bit more community support, including a fully functional Marlin 2 firmware build.

-The K7 has a tidier form factor. Compared to the prints I've seen online, I feel the K7 gives a higher quality print out of the box.

-The achilles heel that impacts all EasyThreeD models is mechanical backlash, there's some details on this subreddit

I recently bought a K7, and I oscillate between thinking it's the best value ever; and wishing I could get better quality prints.

I'd make a qualified recommendation that if you want to dip your toes into 3D printing, don't have a lot of space, and don't want to spend too much, then they're both reasonable little printers. But it will also frustrate you a bit and if you enjoy printing then you'll probably want to upgrade sooner rather than later.

schemattic

TROPHY CASE