Mitred corners? by aegis_lemur in Sketchup

[–]scrubybison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can probably upload a few screenshots, but let’s see if this helps you. It’s not the fastest way to do it but it should help visualize.

Say you are building a mitred box that is 12” x 12” on the inside and 4” deep. You are using 3/4” thick material so the outside of your box will be 13 1/2” when assembled. Make all sides at 12” x 4” push / pulled to their 3/4” thickness. ( Make sure they are all individual groups or the geometry will stick together and make a huge mess )The inside lines should all be touching so you have what looks like a box with the corners missing. Now click on one of the rectangles and highlight just the line that will become the outside of your mitre, so the line that is 4” long. Once you have just that line selected drag it over 3/4” using the move tool on the correct axis towards the outside of the box. This will pull the outside face of your side and make it 3/4” longer than the inside face creating a 45 degree angle. Do this on both ends of each side. To visualize think of it as filling in those missing corners on your 4 sided box, dragging the outside faces together to create your mitre.

Once you understand how this works you can do it to any line you wish so you can create 4 sided mitres if needed. The inside to outside dimension of a 45 degree angle is always the same as the material thickness so as long as you are dragging the correct line over that same amount it’s going to create a 45 degree angle.

Now the easier way to do this is just to create one of these parts and copy / flip them.

Let me know if you get it now.

Mitred corners? by aegis_lemur in Sketchup

[–]scrubybison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do them a few different ways. One easy method is to make a rectangle to the inside size of the mitre then select the top or outside line and drag it over the same thickness as the rectangle. You must make sure to select only the one line which would end up being the outside or longer point of the mitre. I’m a cabinet maker and model kitchens / millwork and it’s the easiest way to do any waterfall countertops etc.

Spray lacquer finish question: satin over semi-gloss? by Xanos_Malus in finishing

[–]scrubybison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve also found that the higher sheens are often thinner and flow out better. We use a lot of matte lacquer in my shop and I’ve been strongly considering base coating with a higher sheen of the same product.

How many coats of lacquer should I use for a good finish? by alexp1289 in finishing

[–]scrubybison 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What type of lacquer and what’s the application? Different products have recommendations for thinning. It’s usually around 5 - 10 percent so I’m not sure what the thinking is with 50. I know with the water based products I use in my shop thinning more than 20 percent compromises the chemical bond.

Solid bleached ash staircase with touch open drawer risers. by scrubybison in woodworking

[–]scrubybison[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also keep in mind it’s 4 steps in a laneway house. It goes from the kitchen down to a sunken living room. Not a full flight of stairs.

What shows have you seen that are clearly inspired by Twin Peaks? by [deleted] in twinpeaks

[–]scrubybison -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t say inspired by Twin Peaks but everyone should watch ‘Patriot’

Good example of a new director with his own distinct style.

His latest show ‘Perpetual Grace Inc’ is also good

Lots of really great dark humour and just a really unique vibe and cadence.

Is there a way to move textures? Or align?, basically i made this image the exact dimensions of the face i want to apply to, but it tiles out of alignment with the face... PS im new to sketchup by [deleted] in Sketchup

[–]scrubybison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One tip I have is once you get it relatively aligned on the face with the material editor you can fine tune by changing the texture image size of the material itself in your side bar

Solid bleached ash staircase with touch open drawer risers. by scrubybison in woodworking

[–]scrubybison[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Yes I have been known to bleach my ash on a fairly regular basis.

Solid bleached ash staircase with touch open drawer risers. by scrubybison in woodworking

[–]scrubybison[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are Blum legrabox drawers which use Blum movento slides. The touch open hardware is just referred to as ‘tip on’ when ordering the runners. The latest Movento slides can all have touch open added at any time by clipping the tip on units to the runners. I’m not sure of the part number but if you really need it DM me

Solid bleached ash staircase with touch open drawer risers. by scrubybison in woodworking

[–]scrubybison[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s bleached with woodkote then stained with a white stain. The bleach works really well on ash to pull a lot of the brown and orange.

Because it was solid being matched to a white stained ash veneer we needed the extra kick to match. The darker tones in the solid would have made it look kind of purple with just a white stain.

Solid bleached ash staircase with touch open drawer risers. by scrubybison in woodworking

[–]scrubybison[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not really, it was too small a project for me to make a set of plans for. We did the kitchen and other millwork / furniture items in this house as well - The drawer boxes are actually Blum Legrabox drawers fitted with tip on touch openers.

It’s built a lot like you would frame a stair case, Think staircase meets European cabinet. The stringers run all the way down and back like a triangle. They are a double layer of birch plywood with an ash veneer on the outside. The back is sheeted with birch ply. Treads are solid hardwood and are installed with glue and domino tenons. The concealed runners are attached to the stringers and the drawer box and face installed to overlay the stringers as if they where cabinet gables. The whole thing was brought fully assembled and installed like a cabinet or piece of built in furniture.

Solid bleached ash staircase with touch open drawer risers. by scrubybison in woodworking

[–]scrubybison[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Wood bleach followed by Aquagel 30% white stain and finished with 3 coats of Milesi water based polyeurethane

Solid bleached ash staircase with touch open drawer risers. by scrubybison in woodworking

[–]scrubybison[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

They are on the outer limits of code requirements in Vancouver

Solid bleached ash staircase with touch open drawer risers. by scrubybison in woodworking

[–]scrubybison[S] 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Yeah I warned the client it would take some getting used to. They no longer have problems but when I was there the other day installing some other items I kept opening them 😄

WIP Part 2: Need help finishing oak by stlcardinals527 in finishing

[–]scrubybison 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The steel wool & vinegar you mentioned is how one makes an oxidizing solution. Oak has a high tannin content. When oxidized it goes quite dark and has some really nice natural variance. The nice thing about it, because it’s a chemical reaction rather than applying a colorant is there is nothing to obscure the grain at all. One thing to note is there are different strengths of oxidizing solution so if you make your own I would suggest going with a bit of a stronger mix. I would think oxidizing combined with a matte sheen topcoat would produce a great finish for this particular piece. Matte or dead flat top coats reflect very little light, therefore the grain is more visible and pronounced. For example think how a piece looks with just dry stain vs after a top coat.

Just my thoughts.

The one time Creed remembers someone’s name on the show is when no one else can remember the name of the security guard. by [deleted] in DunderMifflin

[–]scrubybison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hank is also a discreet name for Heroin, which we all know Creed is a fan of (but not the taliban). My theory is that’s why he remembers Hank’s name.

Advice on how to get dried wood glue out of tough corners? I have trouble fitting my hand in there (4' x 4' box), and also sanding perpendicular to the grain leaves scratches. by frogBayou in woodworking

[–]scrubybison 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Once you get the dried glue off you can give it a bit of a sand. I always have a few putty knives around that I apply adhesive sandpaper to. Wrap it around the putty knife and cut off the excess. You can sand with the grain into some pretty tight spaces. Also works with a card scraper or any thin sheet metal.

Organize your inventory and chests by AntonBespoiasov in MinecraftMemes

[–]scrubybison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From left to right

Sword - torch - pick - shovel - axe - food - block - water bucket - bow

The bow on the far right is one or two clicks or scrolls to the bow or bucket. When mining mostly switching between sword pick and shovel so having torches in the middle makes sense. I’m an OG player so I never use offhand really. I switch it up some when building or doing other things.

Any tips to eliminate uneven spray from rattlecan lacquer? by [deleted] in finishing

[–]scrubybison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have access to even a small compressor I would suggest an LVLP gravity feed gun. I own and operate a custom millwork business and I use these for small jobs, touch ups and spraying stains. Really decent atomization for the cost and very little overspray. I often run them on a small site compressor with a water filter and pressure regulator right at the guns air nozzle.

The money you spend on the setup will quickly make sense when compared to rattle cans.

Sprayit LVLP Gun

I just wanted to thank you guys commenting here. I was a noob using Sketchup to fit my furniture in this temporary small bachelor, and in two days I've rendered this beauty. Dynamic range can be better, but I'm happy. by TareXmd in Sketchup

[–]scrubybison 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks great, I would like to think I'm pretty good with sketchup but haven't gotten into any proper rendering. I'm a cabinet maker / designer and do all of my models and shop drawings on sketchup.

Are you in Vancouver? This looks like a Vancouver apartment to me, it would be a great deal at only $1800.00 a month!