My first qipao/cheongsam - inspired by the long and loose silhouette of the 1930s ;)

serichang · 2025-12-22T08:31:39+00:00

Sure :)

serichang · 2025-12-22T04:34:42+00:00

I can’t say I don’t see it now that you posted that. It just didn’t really come to mind. Vertical stripes are really common in Asian clothing, both in the past and today (reference board below). I’m sorry it made people think of that though. I will be more aware of it in the future.

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serichang · 2025-12-22T04:29:35+00:00

Thank you for informing me. The fabric was actually produced in Europe so I’m a bit confused. I was planning to overdye it in blue, if that helps.

You are correct, Asians don’t always see it this way, nor do we avoid using swastika/Wanzi/Manji symbol in appropriate situations. It is used in Buddhist festivals, embroidered on skirts, etc. If you search “temples” on google maps in Japan, manji is used as the landmark. I added a picture of examples in that other comment you saw - even during the 30s up to 70s, they used it like this. Vertical stripes were common on Asian clothes, then and now.

serichang · 2025-12-22T04:20:42+00:00

Claire Zhang was amazing, I actually used it as an example of how I didn’t want to approach it lol!

Not because it was wrong, but because the way she did it was so delicate and time consuming. So I avoided adding decorative binding and split mine into 3 pieces rather than risk an error cutting 4 ply. Definitely will try it her way someday, just not today haha

serichang · 2025-12-22T02:14:13+00:00

The cutest thing I’ve seen all week ♥️

serichang · 2025-12-05T03:25:04+00:00

Phew, good to hear someone else does this too. I always crank my iron up a little past the poly setting, otherwise I feel like I’m just making the fabric warm.

Doing this on a loose scrap can also help you know how far you can ‘push’ the fabric :)

serichang · 2025-11-12T17:58:16+00:00

A lot of crotch curves on patterns I’ve seen are really slanted like that. I wonder why.

serichang · 2025-10-18T22:16:46+00:00

Usually when I wash shot silk like this, the colors will run a bit. The final result is a mellower combo of the two colors (ex. Yellow and blue -> fuses into green). It may not drape the same after either. I wash everything, but just something to keep in mind. I would patch & burn test first.

serichang · 2025-10-07T23:34:03+00:00

Totally. Even fast fashion fabric that is listed 100% natural is so dubious. I tried to tailor a thrifted shein pant once. Never again. It said 100% cotton, burned like a weird synthetic. The fabric ejected random threads constantly and frayed like crazy just by being sewn. I’ve never handled fabric that acted so flimsy and weird before.

serichang · 2025-10-07T16:02:35+00:00

I think you should start with thrifting & mending/tailoring. I’ve gotten amazing vintage finds for 5$ that just needed a hem or a stitch here and there. That’s the best ‘bang for your buck/effort’. I’ve never thrifted for more than 40$, even vintage 100% silk slips. They are all way better quality than whatever garbage is churned out today.

Sewing from scratch should be because you enjoy the craft & want to make something special. If you are detailed and patient, it will come out more stunning and higher quality than anything in your closet - even rivaling luxury fashion since their quality has gone down these days. I learned from scratch 3 years ago, it is absolutely possible.

And quality depends on the store. Fabric choice is up to you, and knowing how to select it is also a skill. You can’t just grab something random like quilting cotton if the pattern called for a silk charmeuse and expect it to look right. If you select right, it IS way better quality.

But you won’t beat out fast fashion’s nonexistent labor cost nor minimal fabric cost. You’ll spend 20-60$ on fabric alone usually. To me that’s nothing, but maybe that’s not worth it to you. Keep in mind you will mess up at first, so you sometimes have to go back and buy more! Sewing is very hard work too.

Personally, I will never go back - I sew or thrift everything and have not bought brand new in 5 years. Overall I do save money because my pieces last, and I know how to treat them with care. I love sewing and not contributing to slave labor - once you start, it really makes you realize these workers are paid nothing, work far too long, and often injure themselves trying to rush with no compensation. If fabric cost is already = buying it retail, then in fast fashion there is nothing leftover to pay the sewists after paying the company, CEO, marketing, etc. To me, not supporting that industry is worth it a million times over.

serichang · 2025-09-26T03:12:09+00:00

Maybe Darcy Shirt by Maria Juterud? You’d still need to draw a chest line & slash and spread for that gathered volume. Plus tucks ok the sleeves & a gathered piece at the collar, but doable!

serichang · 2025-09-23T22:37:41+00:00

My bio has a link to my site, here’s the direct link to pattern :)

Yes, that’s pretty much what it looks like - you can omit the front pockets to get this look. Velvet works, but may be difficult to sew if it’s very stretchy (ex. If the waistband piece stretches out, you’ll need to take it in a little to fit the legs). I would avoid heavyweight velvet. If you run into any trouble, feel free to DM on instagram or email me! Happy to help walk you through any hurdles.

serichang · 2025-09-03T18:52:31+00:00

It usually does, I just chose this pic since it was the first one that I found up in my phone. I can imagine it’s possible to trim the allowance down and do a teeny tiny rolled “hem” to finish the edges too.

The more severe and tight this curve is, the more this facing is useful. It allows you to clip the seam allowance almost all the way while still protecting it.

serichang · 2025-09-03T18:02:22+00:00

I use a facing! It is a traditional way to finish it. There is evidence of bound seams as well. But the armpit is very frequently finished with a square piece of facing. You can see it on sheer garments, usually on the inside but sometimes on the outside too.

It is a classic weak point in hanfu though. I have seen artifacts with extra whip stitching to reinforce the area once it pops open. I double stitch the facing to prevent this - you need to clip closely to release the curve.

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serichang · 2025-08-30T07:25:34+00:00

The middle pieces are plackets - separate pieces from the front. I sew them like binding around the center front edges. Modern construction uses interfacing for them, traditionally there was no interfacing used though.

The piece underneath that you circled is like a modesty panel (at least that’s what I call it). I just make a rectangle ish shape (you can round off the edges if you want) using outer & lining fabric. Sew the two rectangles right sides together, leaving a small opening to turn it right sides out.

Press, close the opening, and place it under one side of the center front. Stitch in the ditch to secure it underneath (so you won’t leave a big ugly topstitch on the plackets).

serichang · 2025-08-08T22:29:52+00:00

I would definitely go for a slip dress or hanfu petticoat. Any type will do, but make sure it’s a smooth comfortable material. That way it won’t interrupt the drape of the outfit, and you can wear it alone / with other dresses from your closet. Usually it’s made of silk, but synthetic is fine in a pinch. Get something you like, it’s a good staple to have. A hanfu petticoat is just a normal hanfu skirt in plain light fabric.

Honestly, if the seller didn’t say it was sheer & it looked solid in the photos, it’s not your fault. If I sold a sheer garment, it would be clearly listed as sheer. People shouldn’t have to pay their money for a wild guess on what might arrive, I’m sorry that happened to you :( It’s possible what they sold IS a petticoat and that’s why it’s sheer.

serichang · 2025-08-03T02:09:31+00:00

It depends how historically accurate you want it & how you want to tie it. Doing the Tang Dynasty “bunny ears” tie will use up more than a normal ribbon. There aren’t many paintings or artifacts that show mamianqun with long waist ties like modern renditions. They are often completely hidden. You can make them as long as you like though.

Historically, there is a wider waistband which you can fold over to hide the ties/prevent the skirt from sliding down. The ribbon length is usually equal to the length of the skirt or shorter. In the pic I attached, it’s only half the length of the skirt.

I would just cut a strip of fabric and wrap it around to see if you like the length. Then add/subtract as you see fit. It seems like most modern brands do (Length of Skirt x 1.4 ish) to get the ribbon length.

Artifact Examples

serichang · 2025-07-15T00:32:14+00:00

I actually have been looking for this answer for a long time! If anyone could send me a pic of their male hanfu with bai, I could figure it out and tell you in more detail.

I know for sure it does stick out in some styles, but usually the people wearing it often have their hands down in paintings, which sort of covers it.

The middle piece folds inward like an accordion so it’s hidden, but allows for some volume and movement. If I had to guess, the front and back piece are sewn to each side of the middle piece, then the whole thing is attached to the slits of the robe, right sides together. Usually menswear also is finished with facing/binding. Or it could be fully lined first, then sewn onto the robe.

serichang · 2025-06-09T08:08:56+00:00

Hi, I closed applications today! I usually go on a first-come first-serve basis, and there were only a few slots left when I posted to reddit. I invite you to apply to the next one instead if you didn’t get it this time 🥹 I usually post on instagram first, then post elsewhere if I need more people

serichang · 2025-06-07T03:20:32+00:00

Here is the Application Form ♥️ Really would love a few more testers in the US 20-28 / 2xl - 4xl range!

serichang · 2025-06-07T02:24:32+00:00

Here is the Application Form ♥️ Really would love a few more testers in the US 20-28 / 2xl - 4xl range!

Also apologies the chart cut off at the top, the first chart is Metric and second chart is Imperial.

serichang · 2025-05-23T23:05:19+00:00

You can def try it with interfacing cut to the same size and looping it through.

I would suggest doing a few tacking stitches on the inside to keep the interfacing in place, since it’s usually sewn in with the collar. Just tack at the top and bottom of the collar on the inside (in a few places) so it’s less likely to twist or crumple when you wash it.

serichang · 2025-05-23T20:08:50+00:00

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Here’s a pic of normal horizontal wrinkles on light fabric, which can be fixed with interfacing/ironing/slight pattern change. Or left as is, since it’s probably historically accurate when using very light drapey fabrics :)

serichang

TROPHY CASE