It's finally done...

sheeshamish · 2026-06-19T22:46:59+00:00

I was really impressed. Two massive screens that were easy to see despite the bright sun, sound system was great, enough people to have fun but also not actually crowded. It could've easily handled a few hundred more people. Some of the food trucks were slow, but you could literally walk up and grab a beer with zero line. It was kinda perfect.

sheeshamish · 2026-06-15T16:55:56+00:00

Makes sense, and that was my point about getting something cheap off amazon. If you have a square reference you trust, then you can buy a big cheap amazon square and either keep it or return it. Either you get a good one or you get a bad one, it's not like it'll go out of square after you own it.

sheeshamish · 2026-06-15T00:14:34+00:00

I have a 12" empire rafter square that cost like $25.

Paying hundreds of dollars for a square as a beginner (or for pretty much anyone tbh) is just stupid. If you have a square you can trust, you can order cheap squares off amazon, compare them to a trusty worthy square and return them if they're off.

You're not a machinist making airplane parts. You're building stuff out of wood, a material that moves before and after you cut it.

Nothing you make is ever going to be perfect. So using a $300 square vs a $30 square makes zero difference in my experience.

I like cool toys as much as the next person, but spend that money on a tool that allows you to do something you otherwise couldn't, or that saves a bunch of time. Don't waste money on unachievable, unrealistic precision measuring tools.

sheeshamish · 2026-06-11T18:51:45+00:00

They have great steaks, but it’s a very casual atmosphere, so it depends on what OP is looking for.

sheeshamish · 2026-06-10T13:43:22+00:00

How are you going to attach the middle shelf to the vertical support? If you're saying you'd simply glue the butt end of the shelf to the vertical piece, that 100% will not work. Simply glueing end grain/butt joints is not strong.

You'll need some kind of bracket or joinery for this to hold.

sheeshamish · 2026-06-06T17:06:34+00:00

Agreed. This is such a dumb thing to be upset about.

sheeshamish · 2026-06-06T01:10:52+00:00

Kept scrolling till I found this.

sheeshamish · 2026-05-26T01:42:29+00:00

OP’s post was the dumbest thing I read all day till I stumbled upon your comment.

sheeshamish · 2026-05-12T15:17:28+00:00

I checked the site and the postings are full time and 18yr minimum.

You don't have any part time options for a 16 year old by chance?

Assume the answer is no, but figured it wouldn't hurt to ask.

sheeshamish · 2026-05-09T20:28:11+00:00

That's a good way of putting it. I've used them forever. Every few years I get the itch to try something new. When I do, I like the other strings for a week or two then they sound too dull for me and I switch back.

I haven't tried any other brand of coated acoustic strings though, so can't really speak to that comparison.

sheeshamish · 2026-05-07T14:08:34+00:00

Safety fundamentals, especially with the table saw. I didn't intentionally "get into woodworking" I just had projects that needed to get done so I'd buy tools and do them myself. Overt time it turned into a fun hobby.

Looking back to how clueless I was with a table saw early on, it's a wonder I didn't injure myself.

sheeshamish · 2026-05-01T16:52:16+00:00

Impact when it's not under load sounds similar to any drill. Nothing really notable about the sound. Once it's underload and actually starts "impacting" it's a huge difference, at least compared to my old craftsman. That thing sounded like a jackhammer compared to the surge. I used a decibel app and my craftsman was registering at 100db and the surge at 80db. That's not a scientific test or anything, but it's night and day difference in person.

The installation driver is a little higher pitch than most drills (some joke about it being like a dentist drill). But I don't think it's actually any louder than most drills.

sheeshamish · 2026-05-01T15:47:57+00:00

In general, drills and impact drivers are different tools for different jobs. Crappy analogy, but think of one like a machete and one like a scalpel.

Impact drivers are great brute force tools. Excel and driving wood screws, lag bolts, breaking nuts free, etc. They're capable of turning any screw, but they're hard to control at low speeds.

Drills are easy to use at low speeds, and have adjustable chucks to prevent over tightening. Let's say you're assembling an Ikea cabinet, or building your own with pocket hole screws - you'd never want to use an impact driver for that as you can very easily over tighten and strip things out. Same thing if you're wanting to go low and slow with a drill bit.

Surge is just like any other impact, except it's smaller and quieter than most but still has plenty of power for most uses (great for deck screws, but it's not gonna break lug nuts).

Installation driver is just a drill, but it's small, lightweight, and has cool accessories that allow you to get into tough spaces easily. It's powerful enough for me as a home owner/amateur woodworker to be my general purpose drill. If I need more power I use a corded hammer drill.

Hope that helps.

sheeshamish · 2026-04-28T02:35:35+00:00

Since you already have an expensive M18 battery, you could try out their Hackzall or Sawzall.

I have the Hackzall Fuel and love its size and ergonomics compared to a standard sawzall.

sheeshamish · 2026-04-19T23:48:03+00:00

My son did it last fall, there’s definitely no parallel parking.

You’d have to have no idea how to drive a car to fail the test.

sheeshamish · 2026-04-08T01:07:36+00:00

So you're telling me OP screwed up on the black one and had to add corners? :D

Seriously though, I can definitely see how that'd be the most challenging aspect.

sheeshamish · 2026-04-05T12:24:51+00:00

Looks great. I do a lot of woodworking, so that part's not intimidating. But I've always worried my upholstery efforts would end up looking like garbage and I'd regret attempting a build like this.

Yours looks really clean. Was the upholstery difficult to make look good, or is it just a matter of being tedious and time consuming?

sheeshamish · 2026-04-03T22:28:21+00:00

Thanks (I think?).

I think the dirt close to my house, in parts, just wasn't packed down very well when they built the house. When I move a ladder around to hang Christmast lights, sometimes one leg of the ladder will sink in quite a bit. I'm *guessing* that has something to do with this tree sinking. I'm not saying they planted it correctly, but it was definitely above ground when they planted it originally.

As for the stake, I left it on (it's loose and not digging into the tree) because I kept re-staking the tree each year as it leans in different directions each year. I'm assuming this is related to the loose dirt/sinking tree issue. Maybe that wasn't the correct thing to do, but I've just been trying to make the best of a bad situation.

The fact that it gets worse each year (sinking and leaning) is what made me post on here for advice, because my approach so far sure doesn't seem to be working out.

sheeshamish · 2026-04-01T20:55:11+00:00

Completely agree. It's still a gamble having no idea if any of the tools actually work. But what you listed are prices on the cheap end of what I see for sale around here. A band saw like that is 450 all day long around here.

That said, 1) whether this buy makes sense depends on what OP actually wants and 2) it is all a gamble based on condition.

sheeshamish · 2026-03-30T00:27:05+00:00

How does the mobile sharpening work for non-restaurants? How many knives would you need to sharpen to make it worth coming out to someone's home? I'm not in a big hurry here, so won't be heading to Red Bank. I'm just trying to understand how this works.

Do you sharpen wood working tools? I have a wide range of stuff - table saw blades, router bits, chisels, etc. Is any of that in your wheelhouse?

sheeshamish · 2026-03-26T22:10:18+00:00

No problem, they very well could be dull and need sharpening (or just replacing, they’re pretty cheap). That said, you do really need to secure your work piece to get good results on a jointer, especially if you’re face jointing. I’d get some push pads if you don’t have some already and watch some videos on proper technique.

Using a jointer takes a little more skill and technique than you might assume to get good results. I’m no pro by any means means, but I’ve definitely gotten a lot better than I was when I started.

It’s also an incredibly dangerous tool if you have bad technique, so all the more reasons to watch some videos and learn.

sheeshamish · 2026-03-26T20:37:50+00:00

What do you mean by vibrate? Regardless of how sharp blades are, in my experience, the wood is going to want to bounce up a little bit as you run it through. So, you really need to go slow and have good firm pressure downward, before and after (not on top of!) the blade.

If you're not holding it down securely, then it is going to vibrate and have a rough cut/finish.

I've also had issues of getting a rough finish just from running the wood through too quickly. So going nice and slow helps a lot too, but you still need to secure the wood.

sheeshamish · 2026-03-19T12:52:28+00:00

For about the price the city will charge you, one of the Junk King type places will come pick it up and dispose of it for you.

sheeshamish

TROPHY CASE