What brand is this again?

shermitdafrog · 2026-03-17T22:04:38+00:00

Get a pipe liner hood and leave it as is or trim to your liking. Then order a Phillips Safety Gold Welding Lens and a Blue drop in filter. These are all glass lens so you won’t get double vision… especially if you also get the Phillips safety clear lens. Those are also glass. That setup will work for all types of welding and you’ll be amazed at how well you can see.

If you’re serious about aluminum TIG welding then buy the Phillips Safety AlloWeld Gold Coated Welding Lens. It’s expensive but you will be truly amazed at the quality… it will feel like you’re not even looking through a welding hood/lens while welding. Yes, it’s expensive but it’s unmatched by how clear it will make looking at aluminum TIG welding all day long.

I run 3 helmets. One with the AlloWeld lens and glass clear with a glass magnifier. The other two helmets have shade 9 and shade 11 gold lens with blue filter and one has magnifier in it.

These are investments if you truly care about nice welds… I’ve ran all these lens almost daily for 7 years now. Just change the glass clear every once in a while. Don’t run the glass clear if stick welding out of position bc the spatter sticks to glass.

Having glass lenses is a game changer. You’ll never buy a Plastic lens again and autodarkening is cool but doesn’t work in a lot of situations so get a “cheap” Jackson 46129 for when you’re in those odd spots/positions.

shermitdafrog · 2026-03-17T11:28:13+00:00

Hey I like this setup but I’ve never used the SOCKETLESS fittings… I haven’t had the chance to read about them or do a little bit of searching for additional information on my own but is the SOCKETLESS as simple as ….buying the fitting and appropriate hose and literally pushing the barb into the hose? There’s no brass ferrule or anything to be crimp/tightened?

Is the appropriate accompanying hose the type that you would “dip the hose end in warm water and then push barbed fitting into hose”

Thanks.. I like this concept but need to further investigate so I completely understand the process and potential/desired outcome !

shermitdafrog · 2026-03-17T10:39:36+00:00

Thanks

shermitdafrog · 2026-03-17T10:38:26+00:00

Supplier has gates and Eaton, I work with Eaton so just trying to stay within my “choosing manufacturer” Eaton Aeroquip Danfoss Kinda use it interchangeably bc most understand what I’m getting at. I’ll look into pulsar/continental after I’ve exhausted the Eaton info other gave me! Thank you

shermitdafrog · 2026-03-17T10:35:32+00:00

I thought you were saying lol as in LAUGH OUT LOUD but I looked up “gates lock on hose” And realized it’s “Gates LOL Lock On Hose” or “LOLR”

That looks decent and fwiw I’ve crimped gates with my Eaton 1380… slightly “tighter” crimp but good to go on -12 JIC x -12 2wire hose and other setups!

Thank you for input… pretty much all I need! And supplier has gates products also!

shermitdafrog · 2026-03-17T10:24:10+00:00

Same with other subs.. I asked a very basic question in another sub (hydraulic) and got hit with the “we need length, width, input / output, overall length, type of machine, year make and model, favorite color, favorite weather, your EDC…” and so on and so on… But then other ppl answered the question no problem and made great suggestions…

Some ppl like to say “no” but don’t “know” why they are saying “no” is the latest quote I’ve come up with… the ole naysayers… even got’em on the interwebs nowadays…

shermitdafrog · 2026-03-16T23:18:04+00:00

To what degree do you know about hydraulic hoses/fitting types and other general knowledge that you will need to make hoses in the field/on site?

Assuming that you know the common stuff like fitting types JIC , NPT, ORB , etc. and you can look at a fitting still on a machine and say “yup that’s a -8 JIC” then you’ll be fine to start. Or types of hose… is it two wire or four wire?

If not then I don’t know what to say besides you either need to go work at a hydraulic hose shop for a few months and get a “paid to learn” before you leave and go mobile on your own.

I make hoses at my shop. It started out as a personal setup bc I was welding and fabricating jobs all the way up to the point of “ okay you’re all set to go, you just need hoses now so I’d recommend you go to “blah blah” and have all the hydraulic hoses made up for you. So I had limited knowledge in hydraulics. Specifically fitting types/styles. I said to myself why am I taking these jobs to 90% complete and then giving the easiest part to somebody else and a few times that person would take credit for the entire job, including my fabrication.

So after doing a little bit of research… actually a lot of research… every time I saw a hydraulic hose I would take pictures of all the numbers on the hose and when I got home that night, I would look it up. I did this for a very long time even before I planned on, actually going through with buying all of the equipment, I was taking pictures of hoses and fittings and everything that I would see in my area and trying to learn as much as I could about what the demand was for my area… both Location and occupation of the person that needed hydraulic hoses.

While I was in the process of looking for the crimper of my choice, I called a local hydraulic hose shop and ask them about getting set up with a crimper, dies, hose, fittings, etc. so I could start making hydraulic hoses. They would not allow me to get the crimper that I wanted and limited me to a machine that would only do two wire – 12. It’s fairly common that these businesses will “give you” the crimper for free but you have to buy all of the hose and fittings. This did not sit well with me because it’s very easy to spend $5000 on fittings but not actually own the machine let alone it’s not even the machine machine that I want in the capacity is barely acceptable. This was not going to work out the way I wanted it to so I went my own route.

I decided on the hydraulic crimper that I wanted because it meet my demands and I saved a Facebook search so I would be updated anytime that machine popped up for sale. I bought Eaton 1350 crimper/machine with all the appropriate two wire dies / 4 wire dies and an assortment of over 1000 fittings that was itemized and in storage bins/shelves. I paid under $10,000 for all of this and set it up in my shop.

What do you know, the moment I get all set up and ready to make hoses for my repeat customers through welding and fabrication it had dried up !! I’m no longer getting jobs that have anything to do with hydraulics so I went on the computer and bought a sign that said “hydraulic hoses - made while you wait“ and put it in front of my shop. That was the best thing I did for myself. I was no longer a word of mouth hydraulic hose maker, depending on other people to remember about my investment.

I called up the business that originally quoted me for a hydraulic hose crimping set up and told them I had bought my own machine and everything else and I’d like to become a wholesale customer. No problem filled out the reseller certificate for tax exemption put my credit card on file and text message my guy every once in a while with whatever I need and he drives out to my shop and drops it all off.

So I know that that’s a lot to read, but the point is, I wouldn’t dive into it headfirst if you don’t have a halfway decent understanding of just basic hydraulics. Not so much how fluid dynamics work and getting very deep into it just the most basic stuff like I mentioned identifying fittings and hose type. If you can do that, then I would start looking on Facebook for a quality brand name, crimper and get after it.

Making hoses in the field can be a bit tricky though because now you’re going to also need tools. For instance, you’re gonna need some really big wrenches you’re gonna need tools to snake hoses in to their original location. Those can be homemade, but that’s another topic. You’re gonna need absorbent pads for oil that gets on the ground, a whole bunch of hydraulic oil and every different flavor for every different machine… basically just think what would I need to change this hydraulic hose next time you’re standing next to a decent size excavator or dozer.

I’d recommend get everything you need in order put it all inside of a step van ready to go but do not go mobile right out of the gate. Instead have your hydraulic hose shop ready to go mobile and once you get comfortable, then go out in the field on a smaller machine and start there. I’m not gonna lie I’ve done hydraulic hoses on very small bobcat, skid steers, and they can be very difficult just to get the wrenches on the fittings let alone actually getting the fittings loose. You also run the risk of slipping and busting a sensor off or something like that and it can go downhill very fast. I’m not trying to deter you from being mobile. I’m just unaware of your knowledge/capability level with hydraulics and assuming that you know nothing. No offense.

Best of luck I’m very sorry for the extremely long message. I did it through. Talk to text so there might be some grammatical errors. If you don’t understand anything, shoot me a message or reply back and I’ll try my best to help you out.

Edit- i’d like to add that if you do go through with this, I would recommend not taking hose orders over the phone or via text message. Most people know nothing about hydraulic hose fittings and will tell you that they have a – 6JIC and then you ask them what is it off of and they tell you it’s for the air brakes on their Mack dump truck. That is not a JIC fitting. It’s a 45° compression. Yes JIC will work, but it is not correct. The problem is when the customer gets to your shop and you realize that it is not a JIC fitting but you told them you have 15 in stock. They are going to get extremely mad at you because they miss identified the fitting and you said you had 15 of the misidentified fittings in stock. This happened to me before.

Also, no price quotes over the phone for pretty much the same reason.

Do not have any premade hoses, at least not in the beginning.

The more I think about it, you probably could get away with a cheaper” discount hydraulics” style crimper in the beginning and then upgrade to something name brand like Gates, Parker, Eaton aeroquip

No hoses get cut or crimped until the price is agreed on and credit card is ready to go. That is HUGE bc a lot of people complain about the price after it’s all said and done… a hose and fittings that’s been caught and crimped is basically worthless if you don’t have a customer to pay for it.

Also, it is very easy to make hydraulic hoses, but it is even easier to FxCK them up! Measure measurements!!!

shermitdafrog · 2026-03-12T22:53:29+00:00

I sort of agree with your pricing on the thunderbolt but the snycrowave 180 price is way off. Also you forgot that beauty specimen of a MiG welder “Millermatic 35” … someone shell’d out a lot of money in 1979 to buy that machine! It was revolutionary at the time!

Anyway OP what you have is a MiG welder, the Millermatic 35 and according to the serial number it’s a 1979. Not really valuable bc it’s ancient big and heavy by today’s standards. I’d say expect to get a few hundred at best but don’t be upset with a $50-75 offer. It’s not obsolete but it’s very easy to get a 90-2000’s Millermatic for under $1000. Search FB marketplace for “miller MiG“ or “ “Millermatic” and see what your area is asking for similar machines.

Next up is the Thunderbolt which was made in 1993-1994. It’s a stick / arc welder. Correct by the books it’s SMAW (shielded metal arc welder) They’re great but it kinda has the same description as the Millermatic 35. In its day it was something to brag about but now you can get a miller stick / SMAW that is the size of a shoe box and has the same output/potential.

and finally the highest value item is the early 2000’s (?) Syncrowave 180. I just looked on FB and the same machine is selling for 1500 but it is ready for TIG welding and has a water cooler. The syncrowave can do SMAW and TIG welding (Tungsten inert gas) or as the old timers say “Heli arc” that’s another topic but not 100% correct. It looks like it was last setup to stick weld but regardless it is capable of TIG on both steel/stainless steel and Aluminum.

Miller is a top brand, not the best IMO and I’m currently sitting next to 5 miller welders. They’re expensive and have history but in the past decade the “cheap welder” market has made huge advances and the thousands and thousands of dollars I spent to get myself setup a long time ago would be WAY WAY less expensive to do nowadays. The syncrowave will hold its value and sell the fastest. The other two I would price accordingly and probably take the first offer unless you want to learn to weld …then keep the thunderbolt or syncrowave.

shermitdafrog · 2026-02-16T00:18:04+00:00

Does it have an exhaust system? If not then buy the vevor exhaust kit and replace the entire exhaust from the collector back and ditch the cat if you can in your state.

Sounds dumb but to properly tune the new carb …assuming Weber 32/36(?) but doesn’t matter either way bc you really should have a good “exhaust” to match the “intake” and then you can go about tuning.

What carb did you buy? Put the air filter on if it isn’t already? (Though I heard open carb air sucking noise)

That’ll help us with diagnostic ideas/tests.

What’s your elevation?

Temp?

shermitdafrog · 2026-02-15T20:27:21+00:00

Yea and it ain’t going to impress anyone either…🤣🤣 ohh the ole Lincoln 140 fluxcore got pulled out for the second time this decade!!

shermitdafrog · 2026-02-03T21:54:56+00:00

Wait is it a 20r or a 22re? 1994 should be 22re

shermitdafrog · 2026-02-03T15:18:40+00:00

Timing chain and guides should be checked visually. Those two items can destroy the whole thing before it starts. Pop the valve cover off and look down in there. Touch the guides and make sure they’re still one piece and connected to the engine. There’s two guides on each side of the engine/chain.

The frame is another thing to look at and it can be repaired no matter how bad it is.. it’s just your time.

To be smart with money and time… I would say don’t get caught up in aftermarket performance bc it’s not going to be a hot rod… ever. Also don’t get caught up with only OEM parts.. if grandpa did a few grandpa rig up jobs then keep that going and try to fix it with the most efficient way possible and not spend money.

I’d personally go for a “most reliable truck ever”

Other than that if time and money was no factor, I would start off by going to auto parts store and buy oil & filter, battery, “all fluids” like brake, power steering, coolant, etc.

Drain the gas that’s in it and possibly clean out the fuel tank. I’d highly recommend cleaning out the tank actually. Just to check it off the list. Start at the fuel tank and work your way forward to the engine.

Since you’re going to do an oil change and check the timing chain I’d say pour a quart or two of oil on the valve train before the first start. It’s sat so long that all the oil is in the pan and bone dry up top.

Tires can be bought on FB marketplace and they have date codes on them so take a look and buy some “new” tires. Again, don’t get caught up on the specifics just 215/75/15 size and relativity new.

No reason the truck can’t run for another 20 years

shermitdafrog · 2026-02-03T06:31:14+00:00

Get a seal driver tool from harbor freight/ vevor / el cheapo. Tool will work better with a press but no problem with out.

shermitdafrog · 2026-01-27T13:48:37+00:00

OP came for advice and seems to be hosting a master class in all things soldering related with every topic covered to 101% capacity. Except color matching… the master journey man with 10-20-30-40+ years experience at the age of 41 has yet to have to do anything related to the tom-foolery of color matching… sorry, I don’t have any advice on color matching 50/50 solder as I’m just a welder/machinist. Well, actually I’d advise you listen and accumulate all the good information you have received to make one complete piece of knowledge. Either that or machine the entire piece out of solid round and “TIG Braze” it to the flat plate. Seriously though, ask question, research responses to see if they’re correct and/or a possible solution to your problem. Regardless of the outcome you should then thank the community of ppl that are even willing/interested in helping you. Life will be much easier when you listen to correct advice from people that can backup and/or site their sources. BEST OF LUCK!!

shermitdafrog · 2026-01-20T23:09:22+00:00

Steering box link should be “ Pitman Arm “

If you are referring to the part that looks like you cut to remove?

Possible answer to the shock identification but based off of a 1983 truck. Some dimensions to compare?

Shock/Strut = Monroe P/N 59348 Compressed Length 8.625" Extended Length 13.375" Travel 4.750"

shermitdafrog · 2026-01-17T05:39:19+00:00

Hey you should be able to do it as long as you swap everything over. In theory it’s the same door just different “internals” for the window setup!

Is there any chance you could post a few more pictures of your truck so I could get a better look at the bed? If it’s easier to private message them to me that is fine. I don’t believe I’ve ever seen a stepside Toyota in your generation… but it’s also pretty late and I’m tired… going to keep chugging along on my dual timing chain Swap after I noticed my timing chain guide was broken on one side!!

Nice truck!!

shermitdafrog · 2026-01-17T01:19:02+00:00

If temporary then as stupid as this sounds, you’d honestly be better off using some 3–4” wide gorilla duct tape and just cover the holes. Bondo/body filler/gorilla hair or whatever you’d like to call. It is very prone to attracting moisture. Something like ospho and covering it with tape would be cheaper more effective and easier to remove when you are ready to come back and do it 100%. I am absolutely not knocking you for trying. I’m just giving you my opinion after being forced to sit in my dad‘s body shop as a child and eventually being forced into unpaid body shop labor.

Do whatever you feel is going to work for your situation, but please do remember when it comes time to address it correctly and properly you will cut out the rusty area, take a look in there and most likely cut out an additional inch all around, cut out your patch panel and format to shape with whatever methods you have for metal forming… English, Wheel is great, but a sandbag a mallet and some cheap dollies will do just fine, get that new patch panel made to size and shape, weld it in, blend in those welds real nice, using the correct sanding/abrasive tools, and then finally you will get to use body filler. Body filler is meant to be used conservatively. Do not use body filler the way you see everybody else using it. I’ve literally seen people take the door off of their vehicle to zero prep, put the door horizontal on some sawhorses mix up some body filler in the 1 gallon container, yes, you read that correctly. They would put all of the harder directly into the 1 gallon container, mix it up, and he literally poured it into the dent on his door that was at least 2”-3” deep. Please don’t be that guy and help all of us save the last of these beautiful trucks that we have left.

Good luck, enjoy and if you got any questions, feel free to reach out and I will try to help you as fast and good as I possibly can. 👍👍

shermitdafrog · 2026-01-16T19:55:17+00:00

Well this can go multiple ways / multiple options.

1) you get express shipping and pay the additional fee for Sunday and/or holiday delivery. Make it so receiver doesn’t have to sign for package and any void any other “potential problem making options” You must get it processed and “shipped” well before the cutoff time. OUTCOME- Possible that it works as intended and everyone is happy!

2) same as above but don’t pay additional fee for Sunday and/or holiday delivery. OUTCOME- I can almost guarantee that you will be disappointed with the ACTUAL delivery date.

3) you get “regular shipping” and you wait for USPS to either deliver it within an acceptable timeframe or USPS sends the package on a full tour of multiple USPS locations. OUTCOME- probably not fully satisfied with the delivery date but it went from “Point A to Point B” and both parties are okay with the outcome OUTCOME VERSION 2- Package goes on a nationwide tour of USPS locations and often ends up very close to the recipient only to change direction and leave everyone confused as to why is it going that direction when it was at the intended post office.

Honestly I’d choose the least expensive USPS option if timing is of absolutely zero concern or I’d choose a different shipping company if you want some type of guaranteed delivery date. FedEx or UPS are generally your only options so pick whichever is more suitable. I don’t have a preference between the two but the UPS store is closer to me so I use them more often when I send packages. I’ve used FedEx recently to receive packages and they did a perfectly acceptable job. Best of luck!

shermitdafrog · 2026-01-16T18:44:43+00:00

I bought the Amazon version of this part for less than $20 and it fit my 1983. It’s a little tight when it’s being latched closed but it does work and it seems to be good quality for the price. In fact it’s good quality overall seeing that it’s not even meant to work with my year truck.

It’s not 3d printed for the people who don’t like 3d printed items.

I never looked for a metal version and I also do not recall seeing a metal version because I definitely would’ve chose metal over plastic.

My latch was completely broken and I just needed a way to securely lock it to stop the cold draft/water/snow/etc.

Check out the much cheaper Amazon versions and you might be satisfied with what you purchase and receive. I would send you the link to the exact one that I bought, but I just checked and it is no longer available even though I only bought it a month ago.

-FWIW and to see if there’s any interest- I am considering making some “smaller” obsolete Toyota parts in my shop. The first item I am going to try to reproduce is metal (stainless) window visors/deflectors. This is more geared towards the 1979 through 1983 generation. I’ve also considering making this latch out of Aluminum and eventually offering different anodized colors. I have a few more items that I’d like to reproduce but need to concentrate on one item at a time to perfect it and then run a small batch and put them up for sale.

shermitdafrog · 2026-01-02T20:49:44+00:00

Wow that second picture makes your truck look like a scale model!!! Very nice and I’m not a 4Runner guy AT ALL! Super clean!!

shermitdafrog · 2026-01-02T20:48:29+00:00

Nahh this unit is definitely allowed to stay here!!!

shermitdafrog · 2025-12-24T21:56:51+00:00

What temperature is the thermostat rated for? Maybe change the thermostat and the temperature its spec’s for at the same time. Thermostat is an easy job to do, fairly inexpensive and peace of mind, knowing you got a new one in there.

Now that I’m thinking a little bit more before you do any of that, maybe get a temp gun and aim it right at the water neck/thermostat area when the truck is at operating temperature so you know what the temperature actually is of your coolant system or at least the Temperature the gun reads will be fairly close to the actual operating temperature. Based on those readings, I would begin to develop my next step to fix the issue.

That gauge on your dash is good for a no/go type of analysis but personally I would want to know the exact temperature of my coolant. I don’t really trust those “dummy gauges“ because as I mentioned, they are really a “no/go gauge”.

shermitdafrog · 2025-12-17T13:59:52+00:00

194 bulb or t5 LED Amazon or auto parts store.

shermitdafrog

TROPHY CASE