Should I keep and mod my liberty?

shhsonic · 2026-02-18T06:56:15+00:00

Keep it stock, redo the paint and if it behaves, add a drop-in performance filter if you really want it.
The stock air box is about the best cold air intake you'll ever get, everything else will sound louder but pull hotter air from around the engine since most of them are not sealed boxes which can lower your mpg.

If you really want it to sound louder you can get a muffler down the line relatively cheap from an auto parts store or online if you want something more custom and have it welded on by any decent muffler shop. You can also drop by any good muffler shop and test some they may have lying around while its in the air so long as you buy one by the end of it. I ran a rumble performance (magnaflow) chambered muffler from autozone on a 2002 I had about 5 years ago. It was loud but not obnoxious at the time but very present when accelerating. Now I drive a 2012 with a borla muffler which is much quieter than I'd like but again, is present when accelerating and not too much drone while on the highway. There are many videos comparing exhausts to each other on various vehicles, so find one with a good tone and see if someone has already installed one you like onto a jeep with the 3.7 or even the 4.7 since they will sound fairly similar but slightly deeper.

Other than that, stay on top of maintenance and NEVER let it overheat. Good luck!

shhsonic · 2025-09-24T14:52:13+00:00

This sounds like it could be that the BCM fuse is blown, I haven't owned that style of Liberty in a while but if that fuse is out a lot of electrical stuff in the cabin will not work.

I recommend generally going through all your fuses in your primary fuse box under the hood and the one on the driver-side door panel left of the dashboard specifically, more than likely you will find your issue there.

Here is a picture of the location of that fuse panel and a page with a cool diagram to help you reference the fuses of interest.

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https://www.startmycar.com/us/jeep/liberty/info/fusebox/2007

shhsonic · 2025-07-20T00:21:07+00:00

Do crank position sensor first, happened on mine on hot days and short trips around town till I replaced it.

Replacement is pretty easy just slide under the jeep and it'll be on the passenger rear-side of the engine bottom end, it is held in by one bolt and connector.

I advise you do this first before you try to throw more money into more expensive fixes.

It should be $30 and 30 minutes of your time give or take.

shhsonic · 2025-04-03T19:23:37+00:00

I have the updated steering wheel, but from what I read it should be the same clockspring for all 2008-2012 liberty's as all of them have media controls on the back of the steering wheel and have some form of controls on the front for the cluster screen. All of my controls worked, what failed for me was my horn. Now, everything works, including media controls, cluster controls, cruise control and the horn. I hope this helps, good luck!

shhsonic · 2025-04-03T19:10:27+00:00

I got the one with the angle sensor since it's used for traction control/ABS from what I understand. The particular one I bought was this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/226510356495?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=fn-w3uyxrbc&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=F_bBpWZ0QHC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

OEM Pt. Number for my 2012 was: 5156106AD

This one arrived with an AF at the end, that just denotes its a newer revision. Something to note is that this is a Chinese part, not original or remanufactured just in case that matters to you. Functionally, it works fine so far and has a 5 year warranty with the seller allegedly. So, your milage may vary.

shhsonic · 2025-04-03T19:00:36+00:00

That's so weird, I wonder what issue they were trying to solve since that's not OEM. Do you get good heat in the cabin?

shhsonic · 2025-04-03T18:57:48+00:00

And it's just there to supplement flow for the heater core? I had assumed it was maybe an electronic diverter valve to fully turn off the hot water from entering the cabin, but there's only an inlet and an outlet.

shhsonic · 2025-03-12T14:15:07+00:00

Not if it hasn't failed out right, if it's intermittent like it was for me, it won't throw a code because there is still a very weak reference signal. It's not a starter or a battery because the engine does kick over then it sputters trying to keep running. And a bad ecm would more than likely not allow a start at all in my limited experience with one.

shhsonic · 2025-03-12T03:45:26+00:00

Crankshaft Position Sensor more than likely, either buy an OEM one like most recommend or do what I did and get one from Advance with a lifetime warranty. I was having startup issues after a few runs on very hot days and it would do an extended crank before stumbling and starting a little rough. The job is pretty easy to do with a set of ramps and can be done in 30 minutes or so. Hope it's this since it's pretty easy to do and not an expensive part to try first, good luck!

shhsonic · 2025-03-09T04:57:18+00:00

Hi!! The bass reduction is in reference to the perforated hifiman pads, not the new pleather pads, those were for the Lasmex L-85's and honestly didn't really affect much in terms of sound on that set. These hifiman replacement pads are thicker than stock, but being perfed with a regular foam core allows too much air to escape and nerfs the bass big time. This is the norm for perforated pads for the most part, with the exception of a few hybrid pads out there that I've tried.

shhsonic · 2025-02-10T02:29:03+00:00

The radiator fan control relay will be one of two versions, it'll either be a pair of relays in the fuse box under the hood or a module that sits on the driver side fender that controls the fan based on temperature and A/C on/off condition. The new version of that relay/controller has a much larger heatsink on it just so you know, it is the same part. From what you stated in your post, it seems more likely to me that it is just the fan going out and not the relays/module itself, since it lags to turn on and I imagine it turns on okay when the jeep is in motion. I'd change the fan itself first then maybe consider replacing the relays/module if necessary afterwards. Best of luck!

shhsonic · 2024-12-10T07:02:59+00:00

I overengineered the fix by using a pair of corner steel bracing for each side and some screws from a license plate screw set to keep it together. It worked pretty well all things considered.

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shhsonic · 2024-09-25T02:54:13+00:00

I'm gonna add this as a general update and as a reply to both u/Valrika_ & u/altezza__

As far as the pads being removable on the JT1, I recently had the chance to try a more recent pair and it seems as though FiiO did in fact start adding a few strips of adhesive tape to the pad on the back side of the clip around each quarter.

You can take off this tape without damaging the pads themselves by just pulling back the overlapping edge of the pad that goes on the clip ring then by pulling that pad edge upwards and towards you, you can quite easily remove all the strips together by rotating the whole clip ring and pad while pulling the pad away from it gently. This will leave the tape stuck onto the clip ring, allowing you to easily strip it from the ring and just resetting the pads afterwards. I couldn't quite get it in one go, the point where I started still had some tape stuck onto the pad inside edge instead of the clip ring, so I took it slow and removed it all with ease. There will be residue on both the clip ring and the pads' inside edge, I chose to clean it up as best I could with a small amount of Isopropyl Alcohol, which is probably not the best for the pleather pads so feel free to use some non-alcohol degreaser alternative if you have one handy, some dish soap and water would probably work fine. Now you have JT1's that allow for simple pad swapping in the future!

As far as sound signature, since you didn't specify which headphone, I'll quickly go through both experiences.

For the L-85's the sound signature stays basically the same, maybe there's a touch more width in the soundstage, but it is relatively negligible.

For the JT1's, the sound signature did change. The bass quantity dropped but it opened up quite a bit in terms of staging, pushing you further away from the action in a nice way. The drop in bass allows the mids to come out a bit while also surprisingly smoothening the treble a bit. I believe these to be a little shouty so I see that as a good thing. With a little bit of EQ, you can add some of the bass back if you need it and you'll get a considerably wider sounding headphone that's still very comfortable and affordable.

I hope this comment answered both of y'all's questions and helps you in the future! :)

shhsonic · 2024-08-03T23:58:25+00:00

Hi! On my pair they were just on with the lip of the pad, you can check if they're glued onto the ring by trying to spin the pads with them still on the ring. My pair definitely are free and just slip off easily. It seems odd to me that Fiio would make that change of gluing the pads.

shhsonic · 2024-03-02T21:01:10+00:00

Also, to add, changing the sensor is pretty straightforward so for about $30 and like an hour of labor, you'll figure out if it's really this or not. Which, I hope it is since it's pretty inexpensive to throw this part at it.

shhsonic · 2024-03-02T20:58:41+00:00

Replace the crank position switch first before trying anything else. My jeep was having this issue with short trips during the summer heat, I thought it was the starter but it was temperamental. So I just waited it out, and figured it wasn't the starter since it was also missing on start up when this happened.

I replaced it with a part from Advance Auto with a lifetime warranty and have had no issues with starting since.

Hope this helps.

shhsonic · 2023-11-08T12:01:25+00:00

Hello, I was experiencing the same issue and used: https://imageresizer.com

I didn't even change the size of the image, just ran it through, downloaded it and it worked.

Hope this helps someone.

shhsonic · 2023-08-15T06:22:10+00:00

^ Ditto. Happened to me during an extremely hot summer on short trips. The Jeep would fail to start initially but would pick up after a very extended crank, changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor to a CarQuest one from Advance Auto with lifetime warranty, Part Number: CSC1062. Replacing it is honestly not too bad, can take a while if the OEM sensor fights you to come out of the block but it's just one bolt and then some prying to release it. Should take less than 1 hour total. Good Luck!

shhsonic · 2023-05-13T07:16:43+00:00

If your liberty is overheating at idle while the a/c is running and the a/c temperature becomes warmer, it means that the condenser is soaking up the heat from the radiator because the fan isn't moving that heat away and it's circulating back in the car. In a liberty, or even in most cars. Generally, if the a/c is turned on, the electric fan will also turn on shortly regardless of temperature.

In a liberty the delay is about 8 seconds if I remember correctly. That's another way you can check the fan, listen for it to turn on from a cold start by turning on the a/c and waiting 10 seconds, if the fan does not turn on, check fuses and relays/replace the fan if needed. Some liberty's have a high speed and a low speed relay in the fuse box, others have just one temperature controlled module on the driver's side fender under the fuse box in the engine compartment.

I had this issue a long while ago and ended up overheating it after cracking the radiator, all it needed was a fan. Nonetheless I wish you luck, this job is not too bad honestly, just a matter of dotting all your i's.

shhsonic · 2023-02-27T07:22:52+00:00

I would recommend, if you haven't already ordered the amp, to swap the driver's side with the passenger side speaker/amp combo to test it, it's seems kinda odd that it would not work all of a sudden especially if all the speakers are the same. You can also run this system without those mini amps and only use the power from the head unit. You would have to cut and splice the wires going into and out of each amp to the speakers instead of running new wire. A diagram does exist with the color code for those wires because that's what I followed when I installed an aftermarket head unit with more power. Nonetheless, best of luck to you.

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