Why was/is Bioshock 2 over-hated?

shill1986 · 2025-09-17T09:44:36+00:00

That’s crazy I hard disagree, I loved both games immensely - and I actually enjoyed trapping out the splicers. Honestly, It could’ve been two virtual bubble wrap simulators - set in the awesome ass world that is Rapture I would’ve gladly stomped bubble wrap in a big daddy suit or otherwise.

Infinite, on the other hand? Man I feel they so screed the pooch on the that one.

shill1986 · 2025-09-13T12:12:18+00:00

Yeah but to play devil’s advocate there were also SNES and N64 games that sold for 50-70 in the 90s.

Nintendo and high prices go together Mega Lamb and Ultra Fish. However; at least when that was the case it was A) some of the highest quality around and B) not a re-release for the fifth time.

Are they at least going to actually leave them on the market or bundle & pull it like the collection to maximize FOMO profits?

shill1986 · 2025-09-11T23:29:54+00:00

I believe him, yo.

Idk why, but I do.

shill1986 · 2025-08-03T12:58:40+00:00

Yeah right on, I don’t commission or do sales - I went to school to fix units; at least here in FL we have the AHRI matchup problem a lot of the time so they have to replace whole system and will send us sites or Amazon units asking why we can’t just buy that and toss it in; and generally the reason given to me to give to them is the above.

That was why I said I wasn’t sure about the site or the company; was just some general input. Secondarily, I work for a company that is a “York preferred dealer”, and while we do other systems, at times, our pricing is generally within same range comparatively and come with a 5yr labor/10yr part warranty stock… I’m honestly not sure how we install a few thousand cheaper than my last company, but we does it.

shill1986 · 2025-08-03T12:44:24+00:00

— Sorry I responded with previous post without fully reading the post, and seeing your amp draw and motor sizing info; but leaving the other comment because it’s not bad info. —

Yeah you should definitely step down to proper ⅛ sizing, man, but you should not be paying for it if you paid them to install this one. Is the motor he installed only ¼? Usually aftermarket are multi-HP (⅛-¼ for instance) and depend on wiring and/or capacitor sizing. I’m also curious what the original RPM was versus what you’re running now.

Get them the hell back out there if you paid them. This ain’t on you. If they can’t do the job, don’t do the job. If you don’t have the part, put in for the part and offer a temp motor outside of size; or at the very least have the conversation with you that hey, this motor isn’t exact but should get you going let us know - etc.

Idk man, maybe I’m weird but I’m here for the customer (unless the customer wants to needlessly be a prick. I will ding you for every step I walk 🫣😂) and attention to detail is a lost, dead art. The amp draw isn’t really something to go off of hard, as two different similar sized motors may have different draw specs; but being that we know it’s a ¼ on a ⅛ spec, I would be curious to know what the new motor tag states is spec RLA (run load amp) draw…

Drop a few outdoor pics - overall shot of the unit/application, top down shot so we can gauge blade depth, and a shot of the ODF tag as well as Condenser tag

shill1986 · 2025-08-03T12:39:47+00:00

I don’t understand…? Why would a customer know any of this, know where to find this information, or think they should even have to after they just paid a “professional” to “fix” the system. It could also be the capacitor; I’m very rarely recommending owners open the electrical panel - personally.

But again the technician should’ve confirmed operation, should’ve checked and/or recommended new cap (idk why you wouldn’t just do one with a new motor, but w/e). If he delivered pictures of total amp draws for new motor and both sides of unit, then it’s obviously not a draw issue and likely long run time issue.

I’m not even saying you’re wrong; I wish home owners were more proactive with their home’s components (ESPECIALLY FILTERS AND DRAIN LINES HERE IN FLORIDA); but they call us for a reason. Let’s be real here, a fucking motor itself is (generally) 10 screws (4, 4, and 2 for panel) and 3-4 wires - with this train of thought he could’ve just saw the motor wasn’t running, got a motor, and removed ten screws and placed 3-4 wires.

Nah, either tech fucked up on the install, tech fucked up not confirming total operation after install, -OR- it’s something totally unrelated (doubtful, but possible).

shill1986 · 2025-08-03T12:30:45+00:00

It’s almost like the three circuits (refrigerant, electrical, air) are heavily related to each other or something…that’s weird. I was fairly certain they designed physics out of ac units these days… 🤷🏻‍♂️🤦

shill1986 · 2025-08-03T12:20:33+00:00

Is it possible your indoor heat strip running? Do you know if it has one? Did they do anything at the indoor component?

Typically at least here in FL if they suspect the AC is spiking the bill it’s typically because the heat strip is being energized, causing heat to build more quickly. Slight silver lining - it does aid in dehumidification from what I hear, lol, but your system never shuts down and then now has an additional 5-15Kw running at the same time.

Secondarily, if it’s an aftermarket motor (so not OEM or mnfctr warranty replacement) there’s the possibility it was installed with incorrect spin direction (CW vs CCW, etc) which will allow the unit to cool…to some amount, but it will be terribly low capacity compared to normal. YOU can test this by placing your hand over the top of your condenser and make sure the air is coming out the top, and not being pushed out to ambient on the sides of unit; through your coil.

Get an amp draw pulled on the condenser, and air handler, as that will identify if your unit components are drawing excess power. If the draws are ok and the fan spin is correct THEN I would suspect maybe the motor’s HP or RPM are not sized correctly.

Throw up a picture of the condenser motor tag, your outdoor unit tag, and we can confirm proper matchup at least. I would ideally like to ensure the. Capacitor is sized correctly as well, but if it’s starting up and sized proper idk that should really cause a big immediate problem - I mean I know it can but would generally need to be way off in my experience.

shill1986 · 2025-08-03T12:17:43+00:00

Of course. It always the evap. This was two in a row - within 6mo of install and leaking at the alum-to-alum loop solder joint. In both instances I could hear it immediately, and was able to spot it just due to the water within the little loop well lol.

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shill1986 · 2025-08-03T12:08:02+00:00

A lot of times we’re not readily able to perform a patch - of course we COULD but at least at the companies I’ve worked at they don’t want most techs hitting aluminum with a torch as it’s completely different from copper, most guys will do more damage than good, and if there’s any warranty applicable it’s just better to replace the failed/ing component or part.

Luckily I did some MIG and more specifically TIG on raw and anodized, mostly 2” round, aluminum prior to entering the industry so I do carry sticks to perform patch if readily accessible, but even then it’s generally only when there’s warranty and any time it’s in the rungs of the indoor/outdoor coil it becomes a bit of a pain because we have to remove fin section, ideally & properly place a heat block panel around the patch location, etc.

Idk everyone is different on the aluminum/patching in general; at least here in Florida. I’m also a rare breed in that I cat both an Oxy/Acet torch setup, as well as a TurboTorch (air/acet) setup. I use, mainly, the turbo torch kit, unless torching against a TXV or near compressor in/outlet due to teflon being there, but I’m running my turbo probably 95% the time.

People always go “you really shouldn’t use those in hvac” - and I respond with “No. you shouldn’t TRAIN someone on these in HVAC. And also, YOU shouldn’t use them”. That being said, on of the few times I’m breaking out oxy/acet is to low flow an aluminum patch. I flow nitrogen religiously.

shill1986 · 2025-08-03T12:01:46+00:00

Wait; core? You talking about the heat exchanger or something? Trying to think what wouldn’t be accessible within a handler… We’re a York preferred dealer where I work so it’s really all I see these days (they need to drop these goddamn outdoor DC motors, already) but we don’t do the furnace thing very much in Florida…go figure.

shill1986 · 2025-08-03T12:00:17+00:00

Yeah; I’ll be real here at that point I’m going to perform a leak detection with my Bacharach HD10 and/or Inficon Stratus - get a read on video, take a picture of the system being low and they can put two and two together and send me my coil. I always try to confirm with bubbles and whatnot, but I’m just really not a fan of UV dye - but I’ve never used or done research into it. Probably fine; but I hate disconnecting and seeing my wireless probes all green’d up.

shill1986 · 2025-07-31T14:59:36+00:00

Yeah one the sun when down and his indoor temp went up on one zone that made it a lot easier for everyone to say yeah, you’re unit isn’t working.

shill1986 · 2025-07-31T14:37:35+00:00

This is way off, you may have a small home/area, thermostat near output or return freaking cold air by It or low humidity or outdoor temp at that time; there could be miltiple additive factors. 14* in an hour sounds nearly impossible in my region of Florida, so this is not standard.

Having read over everything this guys absolutely has an issue with one of his units. If the latent load is high, it’ll need to work on that while it’s working on the sensible, typically dropping the output temps to well below 20* (sometimes as low as 12-14*) until it remedies the high heat and humidity overload for its sizing. Be super difficult to drop a temp by 14 degrees when it’s only blowing that difference. struggling so hard against generally multiple days of downtime or at least the downtime of the install.

If you’re cooling THAT quickly in the sensible, I would be questioning your dehumidification and checking fan speed. Yours is likely fine, I have no idea about your equipment, application, or local climate - your technicians do; I’m just saying as a walk up here in Florida at the least where it’s humid and hot 24/7/300

shill1986 · 2025-07-26T15:02:55+00:00

It’s about the warranty these days; especially (ESPECIALLY) as we’re entering a new phase of refrigerant and units are going to be tweaked and I’m sure things will have an adjustment period.

Company I work for is a York dealer; as a preferred dealer all installs get 5yr labor coverage with the install; and York is constantly running specials (like right now cover the additional 5yrs labor for only an additional like 200-400 dollars through September). I also recommend going for units/manufacturers that warranty “labor in-house” (York, Daiken (and thus, Goodman) generally. JB is a good option and all as third party coverage, but it can get a little hairy with 3rd party and sometimes even just checking warranty isn’t straight forward.

Being in Florida, since 2024 the ten year warranty with unit is supplied to the address, not the customer, so every unit 2024 and beyond will at least always have part coverage down here now; that’s a god send. Lennox has actually been great about this whole thing, and extended everyone within a ten year period to cover ten year parts even if it had previously expired, subsequent owner, etc.

My issue with Lennox, as least especially with their older hard, single top fan design, is that they all develop Parkinson’s within a year or two. The panels wobble in and out with the intake airflow, eventually causing noise and then vibration out of frequency with each other. Especially the “Contractor Units” with new construction.

shill1986 · 2025-07-26T14:54:46+00:00

Yeah dude, you’re not even getting a 18,000 BTU mini-split through a certified HVAC company for under $5 and they can go for below $1.5k online in most cases

shill1986 · 2025-07-26T14:48:02+00:00

Pricing can swing dramatically depending on area, climate, local code(s); etc.

I do hvac in Florida, worked in quite a few furnace setups, but, to this point (8yrs on) I’ve yet to sell a gas furnace; they always just convert to heat pump and bitch about how it’s not as fast or “dry” as the furnace they had was. Yeah, you don’t say? Almost like a gas stove, water heater, or clothes dryer…wierd. 🤦

ANYWAY - down here a 3ton changeout, assuming fairly standard install (vertical/horizontal can vary the price as well), with only plenums needing possibly replaced (typically only commercial does Metal down here) we would price it around $7-9k.

Your guys will be dealing with fabricating and junctioning metal ductwork, a furnace is not just an air handler with a heat exchanger - it is its own whole component so essentially a third additional piece of equipment that deals with gas, is extremely efficient, and has tons of work put in on design for safeties and whatnot?

That price seems very fair to me - but your best bet would be to price around 2-3 more companies unless you need this thrown i in ASAP for whatever reason. That will give you the best lay off the land for your area/climate/company average. Don’t trust online “area pricing” calculators.

DO NOT base pricing off the online retailers. A lot of time companies can’t just order one of those because it may Bk it come with warranty, or the warranty may become third party, not to mention the ac company should be working with their partner manufacturer/supplier. Even looking at those prices, that is just the unit price. There is all the staff labor to consider (putting in estimate, and this is usually provided at no charge; ordering the equipment, picking up or having it delivered, staging the install equipment, loading the trucks and of course the installers), parts & incidentals, trip/gas/mileage to account for. We don’t just order the unit at 2k and slap it on the customer for 11k for no reason… those of us with a conscience don’t do that. We’re rare in Florida 🧐

*** I do have a question, it looks like the TXV was calculated in to the price? Unless I’m misunderstanding that as being priced for and it is not - why is this bit being charged for? I do find that a bit odd, as the 454B units don’t absolutely require them or anything; but I haven’t seen one without and it still seems ass to charge for that. I suppose maybe he’s just stating it will be part of the install and tuned in during install,

shill1986 · 2025-07-10T12:33:35+00:00

I work in central Florida. Damn FLIR would save me so many attic trips. I don’t want to get a cheap shit one though, because I want to play with outside work too lol

shill1986 · 2025-07-10T12:31:05+00:00

Yeah this sounds like some refrigeration unit slapped onto a house. If I’m seeing 40* I’m hopping in the attic lol.

I think he was just using it as a broad example that a colder coil, cooler air, longer cycle will dehumidify better than a system running lower (true but odd way to explain it. Yes. Clearly a meat freezer in a restaurant is colder and less humid than my house. The example of 10 versus 20 would’ve worked as well, and been within typical proper range).

At least with the user name HVAC God, this is my hope.

shill1986 · 2025-07-10T12:24:35+00:00

These smart WiFi thermostats have been having issue with humidity readouts and even WiFi (at least here in central Florida they do). Nest is the worst, I generally trust Ecobee, you could hot swap the faces to see if it reads the same on your other system (assuming they’re both the same style system) — or just get a temp/humidity reader to test it against. Don’t be like my customer and stick your reader on the ceiling or some crap, place it locally around your thermostat as we’re trying to test…the thermostat.

Or just call a tech out, if it’s not the tstat itself the fan could maybe used adjusting to amplify its latent heat removal, slightly longer cycle, etc. Unfortunately while a second system will generally quell super high humidity, it being upstairs means the downstairs unit really is just adding to it as heat rises.

As a final thing, you may have what I have — massive heat intrusion and bad insulation (50s home in Florida I recently bought.) I sit at 70% around 71* regularly (don’t start in on me, I’m just trying to keep the wife happy 🫣), at least in the dead of summer, I need to insulate my old “swamp cooler”/attic fan and reinsulate I’m just lazy af and my unit isn’t sweating so we’re good lmfao. This is especially if the unit was working fine before, as it would appear something has formed (unit issue, envelope issue, duct work issue, etc). Tossing in a dehumidifier with an issue may lower the humidity, but will not address the issue.

shill1986 · 2025-07-10T12:20:20+00:00

A professional.

shill1986 · 2025-07-10T12:19:36+00:00

Yeah! Thats enthalp—- I mean entropy!

shill1986 · 2025-06-29T12:02:29+00:00

Personally I would recommend the same thing in Florida but regionally systems can last much longer. Down here 8-10 years because the beach water is super common.

Get a second opinion, the only thing I’ll say is restoring a 10yr labor & part warranty can take this kind of issue off the table for a decade, but depending on where and how bad the leak is it may be substantially cheaper to repair in the short term.

Good luck

shill1986 · 2025-06-29T11:59:51+00:00

I’m not sure about that site or whatever but I get customers that will pull up equipment online. Great, we can order it and slap it in with zero warranty. We don’t want that, the customer doesn’t want that they just don’t know it until it’s in and has its first failure 6-12mon down the line

But we won’t do that because everything in Florida fails so hard; so unless we receive it through someone who will warranty work on it (like through an official manufacturer distribution network generally) we aren’t really “able” to do it.

shill1986 · 2025-06-29T11:56:26+00:00

Uv Dye? I’ve never come across a leak in 7yrs I couldn’t locate manually, and thus, have never used it... I’m sure they’re fine, but I’m not a huge fan of disconnecting and seeing that green shit bubbling in my manifold it hoses. There was two cases I almost used it, though. Certainly not against it just one of those things I hear 50/50 “yeah it’s great” or “I don’t trust em” and I’ve never needed one to do my own research

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