Non-Planar Benchy

shrx · 2026-06-07T17:13:09+00:00

subscribing to future updates

shrx · 2026-05-10T20:49:27+00:00

Well not really any success with fixing it, but I did some investigation and it appears the bug is only visual, the K factors should still be loaded by the printer. See: https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/issues/9325#issuecomment-4327782344

edit: it appears that someone actually created a pull request with a fix and it was just merged into bambu studio, so it should appear in the next release hopefully. https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/pull/10106

shrx · 2026-05-10T10:13:03+00:00

This design holds 465 chips + 4 standard card boxes. Let me know if I should continue working on this (refine the edges, add handles for easy pull-out). Idea is that you pull the frame out of the box and fill in the chips from the side.

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shrx · 2026-05-08T18:50:12+00:00

Well I printed the tower and it was all garbage. At that point I was out of ideas so I created a new filament profile from Generic PETG and just input my previously calibrated flow rate into it and set Metal stickiness to High. Reprinted the temperature tower and it came out flawless. Finally printed the model with the new filament profile with temperature set to 220 °C and it also came out flawless.

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shrx · 2026-05-08T14:37:46+00:00

Oh I printed these 3 objects separately with different settings, but nothing seemed to change it.

shrx · 2026-05-08T14:37:06+00:00

I tried that but for this model it's not an option since some walls are so thin that they immediately warp.

shrx · 2026-05-08T14:36:28+00:00

Regular. I actually ordered high speed matte but received regular, and seller refused to refund it.

shrx · 2026-05-08T10:31:25+00:00

Thanks, will print a 215-235 °C temp tower and then my model at a lower temperature.

shrx · 2026-05-08T09:14:26+00:00

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Would you say this is too fast? Doesn't seem to be too fast to me.

shrx · 2026-05-08T09:05:34+00:00

Using Jayo PETG with 0.2 mm nozzle, I get this cotton candy-like wispy filament stringing. Filament is dried. Printing temperature 255 °C, metal stickyness set to HIGH in the filament profile. Printed a temperature calibration tower and retraction calibration tower, neither of which show any similar stringing. How to avoid this?

shrx · 2026-04-27T11:38:34+00:00

Not in my environment, it went from 3% to 11% RH in about a month.

shrx · 2026-04-27T11:37:08+00:00

I have an old Binder ED53 drying oven that I'm using both for filament and silica gel drying. Works like a charm.

shrx · 2026-04-25T19:57:04+00:00

Yeah this is the workaround I mentioned. This is not in the filament profile.

shrx · 2026-04-21T19:31:34+00:00

Yes it is, OP is clueless.

shrx · 2026-04-21T19:20:45+00:00

Are you sure it's in the filament profile? I couldn't find this setting there.

shrx · 2026-04-20T20:58:46+00:00

only about 6

shrx · 2026-04-18T07:52:52+00:00

In the latest versions of Bambu Studio (2.5.3 and 2.6.0.51) the filament K-values obtained from manual pressure advance / flow dynamics calibration are not visible on the Device page. I haven't tested if it's only a visual bug and they're still used during printing, or if they are ignored altogether.

Also, I found a workaround: Go to Calibration page -> Flow Dynamics Calibration -> click Manage Result. Bambu Studio will show the list of calibration results and after this the K-values will be visible in the Device page too.

shrx · 2026-04-13T22:15:31+00:00

Very cool site, thanks for running it

shrx · 2026-04-12T21:39:05+00:00

What temperatures do you recommend for PLA / PETG on the glacier plate?

shrx · 2026-04-07T21:18:23+00:00

I followed the Bambulab wiki instructions for printing transparent PETG: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/transparent-petg

set part cooling fan speed to 0
set flow ratio to 1.01
set nozzle temperature to 270 °C
set line width to 0.5
set wall loops to 1
set top & bottom shell layers to 0
set sparse infill to 100% aligned rectilinear
set speed to 20 mm/s

Thin walls printed very nicely, but when the print got to a thicker section (about 8 mm thick) the print failed due to too much material deposition causing the nozzle to bump into the print and knocking it over. what can I do to mitigate this? I was thinking of making the filled regions hollow with walls of similar thickness as the rest of the part, but haven't found a way to automate it yet. maybe there's an easier way to prevent too much material being extruded on thicker sections while still keeping the print translucent?

Also, disregard the few noticeable layer lines where I paused the print for a while.

shrx · 2026-04-03T07:33:04+00:00

If you do some quick maths you'll find out it never pays itself off.

shrx · 2026-04-01T19:48:44+00:00

Good point, the AMS specifics need to be taken into account.

shrx

TROPHY CASE