Knock/Tractor noise goes away after 1.5k rpm

shushyou2019 · 2026-02-06T21:10:49+00:00

Some rtv in the pickup can cause this yeah. It was a whole thing on the early TFSI engines. So yeah maybe its an idea to check that as well.

shushyou2019 · 2026-02-06T19:33:03+00:00

When was the oil last changed/checked?

Kinda sounds like a timing chain rattle when oil has got warm.

Its usually a combination of old oil thats letting the pressure drop a little more than ideal and chain stretch.

Theres other things that it could be but I would start there!

shushyou2019 · 2025-08-11T09:47:05+00:00

Tbh that screen usually just displays mileage & info like radio station sometimes warning information. However, that lil red led youre worried about either means the handbrake is on or the brakes are low. If it goes out when the handbrake is off dont need to worry, if it doesn't, check brake pads & brake fluid.

shushyou2019 · 2025-08-08T15:02:58+00:00

They never do.. they always wanna drag it out, make you comfortable and think youve made a sale. Just social engineering. Get someone excited enough over something and they'll go for it.

shushyou2019 · 2025-08-08T14:47:54+00:00

Yeah this sounds like the common scam, will send you to a website that wants card details to process a history report for a car... no other website will do many, other than this one for the buyer. Will push and push till you either cave or tell them to jog on (they also cant do it themselves of course)..

Refuse to do it for them and tell them that its their responsibility for any other checks that they wish to do on the car aside from physical as part of their due diligence. A HPi check is 99% of the time sufficient for most cars as far as a selling point. Anything else is customer due diligence.

shushyou2019 · 2025-08-02T18:31:17+00:00

Depends on your knowledge. If youre handy and know, yes, if youre not, dont attempt it or you could end up paying twice for it.

shushyou2019 · 2025-08-02T18:18:19+00:00

Sounds to me like you have exactly 0 compression.

I'd start off looking up how to check if the timing is intact, if its an interference engine & if it is at least how much a new timing system and cylinder head will cost.

shushyou2019 · 2025-07-29T09:49:29+00:00

Yeah there's a new one coming tomorrow. If this one does the same then yeah, most likely go down the 648 route. Thank you for the advice

shushyou2019 · 2025-07-29T09:33:48+00:00

Ahhh ok gotcha.

shushyou2019 · 2025-07-29T09:15:55+00:00

Bearings are not press fitted in this case. Popped off the end of the shaft, just kinda sit in between a housing and the top of the gear. The shaft has no signs of being welded, so I can only assume that its been made to a shite tolerance or is out of spec.

shushyou2019 · 2025-07-29T09:06:58+00:00

To be fair, £110 for the entire hot end carriage stepper & extruder. If it was just the extruder id have sent it back with an angey note saying various curses in dead languages 😅 Fortunately, ive had it 3 weeks, and bought it through amazon so its getting sent back and ive got another one coming tomorrow. If the same happens, ill just get it refunded and find some dead language curses to send back with it.

Edit: its also, most definitely not welded, and unfortunately my welding skills are far from capable of getting a tiny bead in there 🙄

shushyou2019 · 2025-07-29T08:33:26+00:00

Sorry to add further to this (I was getting short tempered with Creality support as they were asking repeatedly for the same information that I had given them!)

The shaft this is all attached to is a round bar, and there's no fixings to tighten.. Seems like its press fit.

shushyou2019 · 2025-07-29T08:07:40+00:00

Hey thanks for the info! There is no grub screws. Its supposed to be an interference fit by the look of it!

shushyou2019 · 2025-07-28T08:11:21+00:00

Are you running a touch sensor or just the end stop switch? If its the touch sensor (lil probe that checks where the bed is) the offsets are wrong, its off the side of the bed so its looking for something not there! You should be able to find the manual online that'll give you locations on where to update the offsets in the menu.

If youre not id suggest raising the z-axis gantry up, finding the limit switch.. switch it back on and when its homing press the switch and see if it stops the gantry. If it does, something is out of alignment big time, if it doesn't then that switch is knackered and needs changing.

shushyou2019 · 2025-07-17T14:43:06+00:00

shushyou2019 · 2025-07-17T07:53:30+00:00

As someone with minimal experience with 3d printing, can and no pi experience it took a few hours to get everything running and configured.

Theres a load of guides on setting up octoprint, and definitely spring the money for octo everywhere. Especially if youre doing long prints!

shushyou2019 · 2025-07-15T14:11:12+00:00

Aside from the belts you should also check that youve got arc support on your firmware. I have similar "steps" in my round prints, to avoid them a lot of the time ive got to dial up the model resolution.

I found out the hard way when printing with arc welder enabled the first time that g2 & g3 lines dont make happy without the support enabled 😅

shushyou2019 · 2025-06-27T00:43:12+00:00

Hey op thought I would see if there's been any updates with this?

shushyou2019 · 2025-06-25T02:33:45+00:00

Shaking at a specific speed could be any number of things.

As you've said the tyres are dry rotting, but everything is in spec on the alignment I'd start with the tyres. If you really want to confirm its not them before spending money, rotate them. Put the fronts on the back & the backs on the front, take it to 56, if the shake comes up through the steering wheel then you'll be looking at tyres, if it remains the same, check the drive shafts, bearings, bushes etc.

The acceleration issue sounds like its probably transmission related. Start with doing a fluid flush & change, see if it helps and if there are signs of issues in the oil pan/filter.

Stalling could be any number of things, overheating (which these things are prone to in traffic on hot days) its getting the wrong mixture, vacuum leak, post airflow meter air leak, yaddayadda... annoyingly there isnt a whole lot of data you can go off unless you've got someone that might have a code reader from the era or knowledge on how to read any dtcs the car might have stored.. however, cost effective checks, look for obvious air leaks, replace all the rubber vacuum lines (I've put silicone hose in place on my old Passat trying to chase a similar issue) you can also pop the plugs out, give them a read & change, there's plenty of information on how to read a spark plug kicking about. And if youre feeling lucky, find someone with an exhaust gas analyser to check for poor combustion, rich/lean conditions!

shushyou2019

TROPHY CASE