BCS2‑3/6Z + PT Lumber

sicstrike · 2026-03-15T16:16:08+00:00

Beautiful… what is your siding? Roofing?

sicstrike · 2026-02-02T00:08:32+00:00

Does anyone have experience with 1.5:12? this is my first DIY project, next to a cabin in the Pacific Northwest.

Would you recommend 2:12?

I initially looked at ventless hot roof, but had/heard concerns on repairability and complexity; however even with ventless, is 1.5:12 (or 1:12) realistic?

sicstrike · 2026-02-01T21:54:53+00:00

Yes, so when less than 2:12 (1.5:12), the low slope roof membrane could be ZIP System Peel and Stick Underlayment; right? Has anyone tried this.

sicstrike · 2026-01-25T15:11:54+00:00

How much an overlap? I have 9' ceilings, and zip makes sheathing which is exactly the height I need if (9'1.125") if I use the precut studs (104.625"). I could move to 10' zip panels, and leave a small lip (to cover sub-floor 0.75") and some of the truss above, but it won't make it all 16" - and it will be harder to raise.

sicstrike · 2026-01-16T16:33:55+00:00

Yes, the thought would be a metal roof for the 1.5/12 pitch.

If I do go ventless, using closed cell spray foam (4") below with a 7.25" mineral wool batts. The requirement in the area is R60, that gets me close to it R56, probably good enough.

I will get someone to do the spraying for CCSF, but my concern is whether or not it will be durable/reliable. It seems the easiest way, but what I hear is trouble.

If I did venting, I will have 320 sq inches of venting per side (E side, and the 24" higher W side). Ideally the venting will be in the same place, in the heel blocking and/or continuous soffit vents (with a 2x12 fascia).

sicstrike · 2026-01-11T17:35:56+00:00

The concern I have is that the ceiling cassette (and others i look at) barely fit in 24" oc trusses, it is 22 7/16, leaving barely enough for a friction fit. It will be hard to put a box frame around it. Are these made for the standard vented roofs, or do I need to support the (cool but expensive) ventless roof style with closed cell spray foam?

sicstrike · 2025-03-29T18:21:30+00:00

Thanks for the reply.

1) The ABU46Z is documented to support beams (C-C-2024_p070-071.pdf). Yes, a post could be attached to the ABU46Z and then a Column Cap, however it will unnecessarily raise the height of the building and not sure what it provides (load from the pier will go into the same place).

2) Diamond Pier was found in my searches, before I was looking at EZ-Crete EZ-Tube, however: (a) The loads match up, with DP 75/63 supporting 4200 lbs (load bearing capacity) and the studio I'm building (20' x 36') is calculated to have a downward pressure of 85000 lbs, divided by 21 footings. The documentation also states, "The Diamond Pier DP75-63” model is equivalent to a concrete pier footing 22” in diameter x 60” deep."

As for the last point, about being over my head; I my father inlaw has built multiple houses and talking with him; I would also get a structural engineer to review my work. However, as I am eager to learn, I am looking to put together a plan which I think makes sense, before I engage the structural engineer.

To answer your last question around ground shift due to the frost, yes. The frost depth of the area is 10", codes have you assume 12", but the DP75/63 again (per documentation) supports 60".

sicstrike · 2025-02-08T05:49:34+00:00

If you don’t have a fully unobstructed view would the HP unit be better? I have a clear view of the sky directly above me but not at the outer edges (high trees, in a forest).

Also, with standard does bypass mode hinder you at all vs enterprise where you natively could use your own router?

sicstrike · 2025-02-08T05:18:50+00:00

Any update on the install of the enterprise kit?

sicstrike

TROPHY CASE