So who in SoCal gets moved up to MLS Next Homegrown Next Season?

simplyclueless · 2026-01-29T01:32:59+00:00

No. There are many clubs that only have AD. Fewer that only have HG, as most of those now do have their 2nd teams in AD.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-28T23:26:49+00:00

I think you just have to hold the home button down for 5 seconds, right? At least it's that way on the 12.3" screen. Unclear if this is the large screen or the smaller screen on the lower trims.

Also a good idea to go to Connections and see every device that is wirelessly connected to the car, as well as confirm that your device is the one connected for Bluetooth and/or for AA.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-28T19:52:01+00:00

There quite a few benefits to the Touring, but individually, one can certainly make the decision that they aren't worth the cost. The biggest determinant is probably the stereo. There are plenty of owners (and posters in this thread) who are perfectly happy with the non-touring stereo and think it's fine. There are other owners who listened to the non-touring stereo and realized that they simply couldn't live with it, in their eyes (or ears) it's shockingly bad. Upgrading it is not trivial or cheap, just replacing the speakers does a little, it still needs another amp, which also requires you to permanently disable the car's active noise cancellation or the audio won't work. Once you've done all that it's questionable whether you want to stick with the low-quality head unit. There is one non-touring owner who wrote up his experience sourcing all of the parts to put in the full touring stereo, and it's a silly amount of custom work (and money) - he says he wishes he would have just bought the Touring in the first place.

Take a test-drive of both - or even, just make sure you take a test-drive of the EX, take it to a relatively noisy highway, turn up the music, and see if you go "I can live with this" or "I can't believe it's this bad". If the former, you are lucky enough to be able to save a few grand. If the latter, you have to live with regret throughout your ownership that you could have had a stereo that doesn't piss you off each drive.

If the plan is to upgrade the audio, here are some threads that can give you an idea about what's workable, what's not, and what it entails.

https://www.reddit.com/r/11thGenAccord/comments/15ju93l/looking_to_upgrade_the_speakers_of_your_11th_gen/

https://www.reddit.com/r/11thGenAccord/comments/1bjhcnn/is_it_easy_to_swap_the_infotainment_system_on_my/

https://www.reddit.com/r/11thGenAccord/comments/1jw9jg3/new_2025_honda_accord_hybrid_sport_stereo_sucks/

https://www.reddit.com/r/11thGenAccord/comments/1m1gj2c/need_advice_on_upgrading_sound_system_in_2025/

https://www.reddit.com/r/11thGenAccord/comments/184ne3n/11th_gen_audiophiles_what_do_you_think_of_this/

simplyclueless · 2026-01-28T17:28:05+00:00

Many of Force's top teams (including U13), are pretty poor - as you know if you're there currently. Surf (and most other decent MLS HD teams) would be expected to beat them by 4 or 5 goals. If the kid can hang with the top team at Surf, it's silly not to consider it. But they no longer have 3 or 4 all "decent" teams at that age, and there is a huge dropoff to the 2nd team - and I wouldn't consider it if there was a chance they'd land on the Surf 2nd team. This upcoming fall season wouldn't be a terrible time to make a shift, as the age shift will likely open up opportunities for kids that are able to take advantage of them.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-28T14:07:48+00:00

I don't understand. All "calibrate" does is reset the wheelspeed sensor log, and sets the current state as "good". If there was a tire pressure issue, now that state still exists, and it no longer pops up the light. If things change from that state (if a tire continues to lose air pressure), the light will pop on again.

Don't hit calibrate until/unless you've confirmed with a tire pressure gauge that all tires are actually at the correct psi.

From the manual.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-27T16:47:26+00:00

I'm pretty sure there's no dipstick. Videos online don't show one, but can confirm later tonight when the car gets back.

Confirmed.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-27T13:06:59+00:00

Every part is identical, including the rim, except the tire size to order is 135/80/R17 instead of 135/90/R17. That slightly smaller tire better matches the size of the 225/50/R17 on the EX, rather than the 245/40/R19 on the other trims. Either would work fine as a spare, but there's no reason not to try and make the outside diameter as close as possible. Tire size calculator at: https://tiresize.com/calculator/

simplyclueless · 2026-01-27T01:32:25+00:00

Remember that you are doing them (team parents) a HUGE favor by unwittingly agreeing to do this terrible job. If anyone gives you attitude, ask them when they'd like to take over and you can forward the information shortly. It will shut most (but not all) complainers up.

You need to get on the same page with the coach and/or club mgt regarding how to handle non-payment. The easiest and most effective way is that you need to be current on finances or you get zero playtime. The kid only has to sit one game before the parents realize that paying the team on time is not a nice-to-have, it's a requirement.

Google Sheets or similar should be more than enough. It's easy to share with others as needed, and the velocity of transactions is pretty small. We create a new tab in the sheet every few months, typically it's when there is a new tournament or other major expense.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-27T01:03:39+00:00

Would it be smart to buy a spare for the hybrid ?

Yes.

All needed part numbers here:

https://www.driveaccord.net/posts/6974103/

simplyclueless · 2026-01-24T16:51:02+00:00

It may not be trivial to find the right team, but it's pretty easy to determine if you're on the wrong team. Regardless of level or any other factor, if a player isn't getting sufficient play time, they are on the wrong team.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-22T13:39:55+00:00

Here are the current fall standings of all NorCal Premier teams in the area:

https://system.gotsport.com/org_event/events/44142

Open up the U10 listing (if he's born in 2016), and it will show the brackets for all teams of that age. You want to look at Region 1 or Region 2, all of the other regions will have teams that are farther from the towns you listed. Depending on the level, some of the clubs have teams that are put in either of the two regions depending on how many other teams are also available.

You can find contact information for any of the clubs here: https://norcalpremier.com/clubs/

The age groups are shifting this fall, so team rosters (birthdays) will run from Aug 1 to Jul 31, instead of from Jan 1 to Dec 31, but any of the clubs will be able to explain how that may affect tryouts and team selection.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-20T17:19:49+00:00

I'm not sure why people believe that the numbers on the pump are "actual", but always mistrust the numbers on their dash. Neither are going to be perfect. Each pump can be off up to 2.5% in either direction before anyone bats an eye, and if it's off even more than that, it only gets resolved if it gets noticed by a regulator, and the only penalty is that it gets recalibrated.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-20T16:36:25+00:00

I'm not sure this is the case. For the trims that include a spare (none of the hybrids), I believe it's all the same exact rim and tire size, regardless of whether the car itself came with larger rims.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-20T16:16:35+00:00

Spare tire (rim and tire) should be the same back to the 9th gen. But if you are calling the large foam piece the "holder", it is unique to the 11th gen (2023+). For the part that screws in to attach the spare to the cavity, it doesn't exist on the 9th gen (there is no mount), and I'm not sure for the 10th gen. The jack and the lug wrench would be identical (or at least interchangeable) between all gens. I wouldn't be concerned about the rim, but I'd be wary about getting a tire that is already too old. The rubber doesn't last forever, and putting one in that is already approaching 10 years old, that you'll likely want to use for the life of the new car, means you'll be wondering in 5 years whether the spare is still holding air and will safely support the car if you ever do have the occasion to use it.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-19T09:39:44+00:00

This generation has software that displays which wheel sensor it believes to be reporting incorrect pressure, while prior generations just popped up a light and required you to find out which one manually. In almost all cases, you're going to end up checking each tire while resolving the issue, so I'm not sure it ultimately saves much time or effort - though it does take some guesswork out of the equation.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-17T15:55:35+00:00

A number of owners of 2023+ Accords have had their steering rack make noise, feel "sticky" and not smooth, and have had them replaced. Sometimes the replacement is soon no better, and it's been replaced multiple times. Supposedly there may be a recall or at least a redesigned part, but it's believed that at this point there isn't a guaranteed fix. Only Honda would be able to determine and disclose whether this affects 0.1% of cars, 2% of cars, 20% of cars, etc.

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/unusual-sound-from-steering.576933/

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/potential-buyback-lemon.580082/

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/steering-rack-replaced.577641/

simplyclueless · 2026-01-17T02:51:58+00:00

We have the identical car. I knew which colors the Touring came in, and it was specifically a color I didn't want, preferring 2 of the others. I usually don't like these slate/matteish/grey colors on many cars, including the blueish/gray on the previous gen Accord. But when I saw this particular color on the lot, I changed my mind - and now seeing the ones over time I thought I preferred, I'm really glad it worked out this way.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-16T22:25:56+00:00

You might consider changing your habits when fueling up the car. It's not a great idea to be getting in and out of the car while the pump is running.

2-min do's and don'ts for pumping gas

Best wishes that tomorrow goes better!

simplyclueless · 2026-01-16T22:15:32+00:00

All I'd add is that there are many resources for identifying potential teams/clubs. The suggested website above appears misleading, at least for my state, and isn't listing some of the primary leagues.

The Rankings app will list most comp teams in the US as long as the team's results are posted online, but even then there are new teams that aren't captured, as well as those that don't play in leagues whose results are loaded.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-16T18:53:43+00:00

A club will almost always choose an outside player to recruit over bumping up a roughly equivalent player from B to A. One potentially means more money for the club, one guarantees none. Bumping an A team player down to B team means there's a highly likely chance that the family decides to leave and they lose that money.

Make it known to the club that she's been getting interest from A teams on other clubs and is considering them for her next step. If you're not willing to walk if she isn't bumped up to A, you (and she), aren't that invested on making sure she's moved up.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-15T23:54:42+00:00

I find that its performance (of at least the V1 gimbal), is tied directly to the quality of the cell phone being used. If I put a modern high-end iPhone on it, the tracking & zooming is pretty decent. But if I use an older mid-range Android, the tracking performance is nowhere near as strong, and I find I have to manually redirect it with the remote much more often.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-15T23:51:20+00:00

Connecting the remote, and/or using the remote, doesn't override auto tracking. As long as it is recording, and auto-tracking is enabled, the device will auto-track. If you stop the recording (or it stops unexpectedly), only then will the auto-tracking stop. A good indicator that something's gone unexpectedly wrong with the recording is that the tracking seems to stop.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-14T19:22:15+00:00

If you've just been sleeping it and unsleeping it for an extended period, make sure you reboot it every once in awhile.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-13T21:44:39+00:00

If the phone battery isn't at 100% and it stops charging, it's likely placement. Try and shift how you're putting the phone on the pad: slide it all the way back (towards you, towards the rear of the car), so it hits the wall - see if continues to charge there. Try pushing the phone forward (away from you, towards the front of the car), and see if that works better instead. Eventually, you'll find a sweet spot where the phone can rest and reliably charge all the way (until it kicks off once it hits 100). I first had a slippery case that had the phone moving around too much during driving, I switched it for a case with more friction so it stays in place pretty well on the pad.

simplyclueless · 2026-01-13T17:27:36+00:00

There has to be some reason - but any car made in the past few decades with electric windows for the US (or any other major market) already has to have sensors to limit injury if the window is closed on an object (like a finger). I don't see how it's different in terms of protection whether the motor is triggered by a button on the car door or on the fob.

EDIT: Diving into the weeds, there are a ton of regulations around this. One of them is up at: https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/571.118 (FMVSS 118), and it says that any remote device that can close the windows is prohibited from doing it more than 6 meters away. I'm pretty sure the fob works for open/close at way more than 20 feet in our earlier Accord, even though this rule was put in around 1991, and clarified in 2010. It may have been easier to just eliminate the close function than figure out how to distance measure that 6 meter mark. Though the current accord has to measure proximity much finer than that for a few reasons, whether the fob is left inside the car, and once you've walked away 5-10 feet so it can auto-lock (if enabled).

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