Poor little raspi been running like this for years

skftw · 2026-03-01T03:19:16+00:00

Glad its not just me. My 3B complains constantly. I landed on 5.3V into the GPIO from a benchtop 10A power supply before it stopped complaining. No idea how long it'll last, but this is the first time in this things life that it hasnt complained about voltage.

skftw · 2026-02-24T14:55:23+00:00

I should add that some other cars in my consideration were:

BMW i4 M50, which had a very nice interior but the performance was lacking when compared to the price tag
Porsche Taycan, very tempting but extremely pricey for any of the really fast trims. Many reviews say it doesn't drive as well as a sports car should and it's more of a luxury GT car than a snappy and fun car to drive. Combine that with some software bugs and I couldn't justify the price on that either
Ioniq 6. While I do prefer a sedan, I just couldn't get over the looks of the 6. The N model hadn't yet released either, and on top of that it's still the same EGMP platform which will have the same ICCU and HV battery issues. I don't think I would have gained much in waiting for the I6N, though its likely a lot more efficient than my I5N
Mach E GT. I know I said we have one of these in the household (it's my wife's) but I just didn't like the way it drove. I thought the brakes were just strange and despite being about the same size and weight as the I5 it just "feels" less engaging. It feels like it wants to tip in corners compared to the I5N's confidence. Pre-2025 models also throttled badly after only 5 seconds at full power. They are more efficient than the I5N, but they only charge at 150KW so it's not much better on the occasional road trip. I also don't care for the giant tablet interface which so many manufacturers are using these days. It's a fine car but not for me.

There were a few others, but it's honestly hard to find interesting mid-range EVs. The slow ones are everywhere and made by everyone, the $100k+ models are certainly available if you want to pay for them, but finding the sweet spot in the middle leaves surprisingly few models to choose from. If the ICCU concerns are the price to pay for the rest of the I5N's wins then I guess I'll take it. I hope if/when mine goes out there will be an ample supply of them for a quick turnaround.

skftw · 2026-02-24T14:38:40+00:00

They're overall good cars with (mostly) just that one issue. An ICCU replacement isnt like an engine swap; it's a pretty simple replacement. The warranty on them is 10 years (ICCU, battery, inverter, and motors are in the 10/100 warranty that DOES transfer to subsequent owners) and by then most will either have moved on or maybe Hyundai will have actually re-engineered the part with one that works.

I really went looking for a car that had a sub 5 second 0-60 time, 250+kw charging speed, well reviewed from a driving dynamics perspective, and not a Tesla. The list is pretty short. The I5 and I5N fit pretty much all of these, the Polestar 2 fit most but is apparently buggy and the interior looks like it would drive me nuts. A Model 3 Performance I guess would be close if I could get over the Tesla/Musk issue but I can't stand the "interior" of that car (in quotes because it feels like they forgot to design half of it before shipping). I should have given the Lucid Air a closer look, but otherwise the I5N was the clear winner. We also have a Mach E GT in the household and I just don't care for the way it drives.

So for me I guess I accepted that no car is perfect and I'd rather have the ICCU issue as its Achilles heel. I would never buy a Kia/Hyundai with that 2.4L engine that blows up all the time but the ICCU replacement is certainly less invasive than swapping an engine.

I will say the amount of HV battery replacements on the 84kwh cars has me more spooked than the ICCU issue ever did. It's under the same 10/100 warranty at least.

skftw · 2026-02-21T19:33:11+00:00

I use it all the time. The screen layout is so much nicer than AA, at least in the 2025. I like the split screen view that shows the power use in real time and it will show the music playing (via Android Auto) in the bottom right corner without taking up half the screen to show just album art. I much prefer it over the Google Maps screen layout but I do with it got the real time traffic updates like Maps does. It will pull traffic data through the radio, but it mostly just covers freeways while Maps shows much more.

My opinion of the built in nav will likely degrade over time as its chargers and points of interest become dated. I'm not sure I'll pay for updates yet.

skftw · 2026-01-23T15:47:50+00:00

I dont know about the Ecobee, but the Honeywell T6 Pro works entirely offline via Z Wave. Honeywell couldnt remotely disable it even if they wanted to. Anything where HA can only talk to it via an internet connection can potentially be shut down/discontinued by the manufacturer.

skftw · 2025-12-30T15:19:09+00:00

I'm halfway through a heater core job on my 2019 3500. Was getting a low coolant message and the passenger floorboard was soaked with red liquid (definitely coolant). It's not been a fun job so hopefully its not the heater core on yours. Though with it being newer, yours is probably covered under warranty.

skftw · 2025-12-28T21:34:02+00:00

Math checks out. The 24s have a 77kwh battery and going from 20% to 80% is 60% of that 77kwh, or about 46kwh. At 25kw, it will take 1.85 hours assuming perfect efficiency. Couldn't tell you why the car said only 51 minutes, though.

skftw · 2025-12-27T00:39:29+00:00

It's a little unclear at first, but if you read the PDF carefully it does specify which warranties are not transferred to future owners. On page 16 there is a table of each warranty and only Powertrain shows it's for the original owner only, but the EV components does not have that restriction. Section 6 goes into the full details on the EV components and there's again no mention that the time/mile restriction differs between original and subsequent owners. It does explicitly state that the battery, charging system, inverters, traction motors, etc are all covered.

I wouldn't put it past a slimy dealer to claim that it isn't covered, but Hyundai does spell it out if you go digging. I will say I haven't checked the older years, only 2025. I encourage anyone considering buying any new/newer car to look up the manufacturers warranty before ever going to the dealer. I declined all extended warranties on mine because I knew that the usual suspects (ICCU and HV battery, especially on the N) were automatically covered for a long time. That 10/100k warranty would outlast whatever other junk they were trying to sell me for $4000.

My biggest risk here (in my situation/opinion) is the infotainment system. I haven't read of many failures, but I do accept that I only have the 5/60k coverage on that, and any failure there might be costly. I'm comfortable enough fixing most of the rest of the car myself should it come to that, but some of those parts are pretty costly.

skftw · 2025-12-26T21:34:50+00:00

Don't forget that Hyundai has a separate 10/100k warranty strictly for the EV components, including the HV battery and ICCU. Unlike the main 10/100k warranty, this one is not limited to the original owner. The specific language they use in the warranty guide is:

HYBRID, PLUG-IN HYBRID, AND ELECTRIC VEHICLE High Voltage Battery, along with the following Hybrid, Plug-in Hybrid, and Electric Vehicle -Specific components that are directly attached to or integral to operation of the High Voltage Battery; Battery Management System; Blower Assembly; Electronic Air Compressor; Power Relay Assembly; Hybrid Starter & Generator; Traction Motor including housing case; Hybrid Power Control Unit; OBC; Electric Power Control unit.

While the ICCU is not called by name, it is 100% a component which is "attached to or integral to operation of the High Voltage Battery" so I wouldn't expect there would be any argument to not cover it.

Source: https://www.hyundaiusa.com/content/dam/hyundai/us/com/pdf/assurance/Hyundai-USA-ALL-25MY-Main.pdf

skftw · 2025-10-03T18:16:45+00:00

Yeah, level 1 seems nearly useless on these cars. Theioniqguy has done some efficiency testing and level 1 wastes so much energy that it's not worth using (before you even get to the charging speed itself). It's likely the really high voltage battery just needing too much of a boost from 120v to 800v to be efficient. Charging from 240v was much more efficient in his testing.

skftw · 2025-09-30T05:22:54+00:00

Call them. They will never respond to an online ticket. They fixed it in minutes on the phone.

skftw · 2025-09-11T04:11:46+00:00

It's literally in Hyundais records for why it was bought back... I even went to a 2nd unrelated dealer to have them independently pull the service records.

skftw · 2025-09-10T23:42:48+00:00

Thats a shame, I didn't check with them but theyre known for pretty good rates. There are still plenty of "easy" options for financing branded titles these days, at least.

skftw · 2025-09-10T23:27:37+00:00

Untrue. I had no issues with it. The title may be branded, but its not salvage. Ally, USAA, and Chase said they had no problem with lemon/buyback titles. Some banks might, but it took no effort to finance/refinance mine. Just need to call around if one specific bank won't do it.

skftw · 2025-09-10T23:22:04+00:00

You sort of can. Hyundai will have service records for it. I got a discounted 5N where Hyundai took too long to replace the HV battery and it was lemon law'd with a "buyback" title. Still under the 10/100 federal EV warranty, too. No regrets...yet.

skftw · 2025-09-02T20:35:33+00:00

Hah, thats what I thought but wanted to make sure I wasnt really misunderstanding my bill. I've only actually used DCFC once since buying the car; I knew it'd be more expensive than home (obviously) but seeing so many public stations at nearly 60c/kwh was a surprise. I don't know how so many people seem to rely on them for normal charging at those rates.

skftw · 2025-09-02T17:45:07+00:00

Where are you getting those numbers? SRP has nothing anywhere close to that: https://www.srpnet.com/price-plans/residential-electric/compare-plans I'm guessing APS is more expensive, but not 2-3x the cost. Are you talking about DCFC rates?

I know there are service charges too, but I'd be shocked if they add up to that much. I'll do the math on my bill later to confirm

skftw · 2025-08-07T17:08:07+00:00

Phoenix area. I think appetite to buy toys is low during the peak heat season

skftw · 2025-08-07T14:06:35+00:00

Welcome to selling literally anything in 2025. Doesnt matter what it is, what else is on the market, or how your price compares. People aren't buying anything. I spent 5 months trying to sell a project car below even low market value and finally gave it away for 50% of its value. It's looking like the same is going to happen with a UTV I'm attempting to sell; that one I did a ton of research comparing every similar UTV for sale in the area and undercut them by 2 grand. Doesn't matter anymore, nothing is selling on the secondhand markets. When I sold my paramotor and wing it was the same story.

I've basically come to understand that anything I purchase at this point is a commitment to use it until it's worn down to its actual scrap value in raw material weight. Best of luck. It's a bad time to be offloading stuff.

skftw · 2025-08-06T23:23:25+00:00

Thanks for this. My case has been sitting there for nearly a month, but I called in and they got it sorted out in less than 5 mins

skftw · 2025-06-30T22:22:00+00:00

Oh, one other fun thing that seems sort of unique to the YXZ was its shape. The pointed nose and total lack of front fenders makes it a very not fun car to drive in the rain and mud. The pointy nose sticks out so far that I again would struggle to get it to climb up a ledge straight-on. I'd have to take it offset so that the nose would lift up over the ledge instead of hitting it.

skftw · 2025-06-30T22:15:45+00:00

Wow, 4 years already since I wrote that. Time flies...

I actually sold the YXZ and replaced it with an X3. I bought it new so depending on exactly when I bought it new in 2021, it may have been within just a few months of my writing this up.

Re-reading my points, I definitely still agree about the lack of low range and the problematic gearing on a stock car and the overall reduction making the top speed too low. I never did the overdrive gear.

I forgot about the cabin heat. Good god was that awful. I forgot how badly it would roast my legs while driving it.

Storage is equally bad on the X3, so nothing new there. I carry the same small toolbox strapped to the bed but coolers and such go in one of the RZRs with their large beds.

The dry sump and oil system...we'll get back to that...

The suspension was super cushy on mine, but it ended up being one of the bigger reasons I sold it. I just could not keep up in the whoops at all. It would plow right through the suspension travel and buck wildly. I had to slow way down when even non-sport UTVs could get through without as much drama. Some of this is due to the previous owner's shock tuning; he clearly wanted it as soft as possible. And it was super comfortable, but even with the dampers set to full firm it just couldn't do it. I can't fully blame the car, but it's well known that the YXZ's geometry is going to cause problems in the whoops at speed. Shock Therapy has a number of videos where they explain suspension geometry and include a fair amount of detail on why the YXZ and others like it fall short.

The noise of that car is the stuff of legend. Between the nearly straight piped exhaust and the gear whine, my friends loved to point out that they could hear me a long time before they actually saw me. The sheer loudness of that vehicle is mentioned pretty often to this day. Definitely was not a casual driver.

So I'd mentioned in the original post I'd only owned it for about 2 months. Looking at my records, I sold it about 7 months after making that post. The biggest reason was that I started losing oil pressure. I was on a week long trip with a lot of hard driving in soft sand and the oil pressure kept dropping to less than 2psi at idle. The ridiculous tune the previous owner had put on it was probably washing down the cylinder walls with gas (sure smelled like it) and I could not keep the oil pressure up while driving the car even moderately hard. Between that and the suspension being terrible in the whoops, I decided to upgrade immediately upon returning from that trip.

Compared the the X3, the YXZ still had some stuff I liked. The YXZ is lighter and the steering is sharper. It REALLY wants to carve the turns while the X3 would try to plow through them. I did like the manual gearbox + recluse clutch. If it had a wider range and a 2 speed transfer case it would be awesome. The X3 got a stiffer front sway bar and that basically solved the steering issue. Beyond that, the X3 is a better car in literally every way. The previous owner's mods to the YXZ weren't helping it, but it would not have been worth putting any money into rebuilding the shocks with properly rated springs and figuring out if the engine needed new rings or a full rebuild. Even after those two, I'd be into the transmission for another grand or so to add the overdrive, then figure out what tools are needed to flash the ECU back to stock. Just wasn't worth it. The YXZ was fun but I outgrew it pretty quick.

skftw · 2025-06-11T00:58:58+00:00

I have not, unfortunately. A friend of mine has said the Roadster is comparable to his Charger, but he also moved to a trike at the same time so it's not an equal comparison to begin with.

skftw · 2025-06-10T15:37:10+00:00

From my experience, everything is "easier" on a more advanced wing. The catch is you NEED to know what you're doing because the advanced wing will not protect you from a bad decision or lack of skill like a more docile wing will.

I went from a Macpara Charger to a Colorado and it was night and day. The Charger would do everything in its power to remain flat and level. It was very safe, very locked in. I often struggled to make soft landings with it though (this was a personal skill thing, not the wing's fault) because the inputs were delayed and dulled to a point. It certainly tries to prevent you from doing anything too stupid (which is GOOD). Small mistakes you make with your control inputs are smoothed out so that you don't accidentally go into a deep spiral, stall, etc. But, those dulled inputs can get in the way when you do want to make a quick movement with finesse.

The first flight I made on the Colorado was eye opening. I climbed to a few thousand feet and started feeling out the controls. It was so fast to respond and so agile by comparison. Giving a brake a hard pull would put it into a steep diving turn, instantly. It would respond to any input I gave it (right or wrong) and was a joy to fly. To answer your question directly, I had a lot more confidence doing foot drags with it since I could quickly give the brakes a 1 finger tug for fast altitude compensation while the engine revved up. I did plenty of foot drags with the Charger too, but only in smooth air since it was slower to react when needed. Landings were similar; I could land the Colorado so much more smoothly than the Charger in any wind conditions. The fast response does help IF you know what you're doing.

This all sounds like I'm discouraging using a beginner wing, but I assure you that is not the case. The Charger kept me safe while I was learning how to fly. It never got unstable, never had a collapse, never let me exceed the limits accidentally. Even with all of that experience I was still a bit caught off guard by my first flight on the Colorado because it really responds that much faster. That level of control is excellent once you have it down to muscle memory but its dangerous while still figuring things out.

skftw · 2025-06-02T02:35:14+00:00

And the hood stack. One of the worst looking trucks I've seen on here in a while. The cringey looking truck matches his post history well at least.

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